Steelslinger

Check rear end fluid. Might be low

2019 XT model you would only need S3 springs and you can clear 30" no problem at all. Avoid puck spacers, can make the ride worse. S3 springs use a different spring rate and don't sag like OEM springs, but don't harden up the ride as bad as puck spacers do. Plus cheaper option ($400ish) vs. Elkas or ZBros ($1500+), though if you want the best ride, might what to look into them.

I thought I remember seeing one, but can't find the post or remember where I saw it. But agreed, I'd like to get something I don't have to modify my machine for. Big fan of reusing existing bolt holes/mounts etc for add ons.

I run an Infinity marine unit and has a USB drive, and it'll read mp3 or wma from it. https://www.rocktheboatmarinestereo.com/html/62503.html

Why not get a marine radio vs. a 1 din car radio?

Nice. Planning to do the Halo Half Case kit myself at some point. Hasn't been a big issue yet, but miss my front lockable diff that I had on my Grizzlies, that thing was damn near unstoppable.

Hesitation can be a lot of things, but most common is either fuel related or spark related. Make sure the spark plugs are clean and gapped properly. Check your gas, should be clean and 87 octane is best for these machines. Next would be making sure the fuel filter/sock is not clogged. After that, check fuel pump pressure. Also check battery voltage at idle and as you step on the gas, I've heard of low/failing batteries causing issues and throwing a PPS fault or something like that. Not sure about any tricks for codes, aside from taking it to a Can Am tech or dealer.

An issue to be aware of with synthetic ropes, is it needs to be cleaned and fully dried often. It is recommended to pull it out, clean it, let it dry then rewind it on the drum. Otherwise the fibers can degrade quickly. I rarely use my winch aside from when I plow. For pulling people out I prefer tow straps or kinetic ropes (fast to deploy and stow). So, steel cable still works best.

S3 springs will definitely help.

AC requires a different engine, the block is different from 2020+ vs. 2019 and earlier models. Even without the engine issue, i rough ballparked it to cost $6000 approx to add AC to a non-ac machine. Heat can be added to any model, not sure of the cost.

And don't buy All Balls stuff. Cheap crap. At least anything with bearings.

I have 6.5 in the front factory spot and in the back using C-Werks supports under the headliner attached to the roof (Jamie Connolly makes them).

I changed out my primary and secondary clutch springs when I went to 30s. Feels a lot better after I did that. I used EPI Performance clutch springs (not the kit, just bought the springs, $26 each).

Beamtech H11 Fanless, buy a set for Hi and a set for Low (same bulb). Should be about $35 to $40USD a set

Rolling weight would be a concern I suppose. But I know plenty of people have done that. There are quite a few DOT-approved ATV/UTV tires out there as well. I'm running Quadboss QBT 846 tires, they are DOT compliant, seem a decent hard wearing tire.

Welcome from West Central MN. I've been looking into doing the upgraded stator myself, but have yet to get answers from those that have on what all needs to be replaced/upgraded. And if it would work on a 2019 model.

They both pull power from the terminal behind the front header panel. The wire to that terminal runs down the driver's side to the power terminal under the dash in the center. I'd start there if both windows and the dome aren't working. Can't remember if there is a fuse up there or not, been awhile since I was up in that area.

I run an 18' tilt deck H&H speedloader. Works nice. Look into Vulcan Wheel nets, so much easier and faster to strap the machine down.

BRP is not generally set up to sell direct to customers, that's what they rely on dealers for. Majority of accessories would be sent to dealers for up-sells. Almost all of my OEM accessories I've gotten through my dealer, a few from third party parts sites.

I regularly run 30 to 45 on local roads with no problems. I've run at 55 to 60 for extended durations with no issues. Usually you vary your speed enough with turns, normal speed fluctuations, etc that I doubt you would cause any damage to anything.

End of the plowing season, for the most part, so I figured I'd update my thoughts. The joystick controller was the big winner for this, was a lot more intuitive in operation than the dash switch. Only issue, as I figured would happen, was bumping the joystick when shifting. I may add a controller power switch to deactivate it when not plowing. Having the limit switch for plow height was great, never had to worry about over retracting and damaging the cable. Worth the money. Even the rebuilt reinforced bracket took a slight bend it in. There is a little bit of space now at the back end of the bracket between the push tube. Haven't fully decided what I plan to do. I have a few ideas on how to redesign the bracket to be beefier. Other option is to look for other actuators/rams, one that fits better (i.e. 3" shorter) so I don't have to run an offset bracket. The angling speed, well, that's more of a what can you live with thing. While its not absolutely horribly slow, its not quick either. If I was using this in a commercial setting or had to change angles a lot more than I do, it'd be a problem. Although in the case of commercial use, I'd be able to justify the cost of a V-Plow. I may solve this issue and the bracket issue by replacing the electric actuator that I have with an electric-hydraulic ram. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. Definitely worth the time and money I put in to it. Figure about $550 and a solid shop day or two building and installing it. A little bit of tweaking and it'll be solid.

Cylinder heads, valves and piston are different. It's not just the tune.

Yep, pretty standard on new brakes. Mine went away when I did basically what DWebb68 outlines, though mine was not intentional (almost missed my turn coming down a hill while I was running into town, lol).

Short of actually putting in the OEM heater, which is the best option (though spendy and labor intensive), I've read about people using the small mr buddy heaters. 12v Electric heaters are very inefficient and will most certainly blow fuses and pull way too much power for the charging system on these things.

Made in Mexico