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Is that 13.8v at the battery, the back of the stereo, or both? I would take the volt meter and start checking in multiple locations with the key on, and after its started. Check at the stereo, buss bar, fuse, etc. It's acting like an accessory wire in a vehicle where it drops its voltage during crank but should return once running. Also check the grounds for anything loose and use your meter to check inpedence between the stereo and battery ground as well.

I can't speak for the xt, but I have a 22 xmr and rides fairly smooth being a utility Mud machine. Even with the cryptids on paved roads it's pretty smooth, although I'm sure it'll be better when I finally get around to ordering my blackwaters to use when I'm not mudding. I thought the new defender xmr's have a different, less aggressive tire, but I could be wrong. I would check a parts list and compare the suspension between the 2 models for any differences as they will probably ride about the same with the tires.

I have heard good things about the on-x off road app but haven't used it myself. I used to use the polaris ride app on my renegade but since getting the defender, i switched to the gaia gps app because I installed a carplay/android auto screen for a larger map and Gaia works with Android auto. I can import maps and have created a few of my own on private land.

I have a 22 defender xmr and these are the oem style nets I got for the location I believe you're talking about. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EI82DNQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You should be able tobget anything you needs from partzilla.com. it can be a pain to navigate but you get exploded views of every vehicle with all the parts listed.

I've seen lots of guys running the same tire all around, may need a 1-2" spacer on the rears for them to track properly.

It sounds like a power issue to me. An upgraded battery, pc1200 I think has been recommended in the past, and/or a 2nd battery, along with an upgraded stator wouldn't hurt. It's possible the amps have different thresholds for voltage before they go into protection mode which would explain why the sub keeps going. You could check voltage while you're running music and see where it's at when it cuts out, and turn accessories on and off to see where extra draw may be coming from.

I had wired in a rocker in the dash for my backup camera but you'd have to remember to flip it on each time backing up. I read either here, or on can-amforum.com someone had modified the panel around the shifter with a bolt that would hit the shifter to give you a ground connection when in reverse and trigger the camera, lights, etc. I've thought about looking into the instrument cluster for a wire to the reverse light indicator but haven't taken the time to dig into it yet to see if it's a signal trigger, or a data wire. Couldn't find the thread but here's the video of what he did.

I have one for my 22 xmr and I do have a couple issues with it. I believe these issues have to do more eith the fact thats its an xmr and my snorkels arent allowing the cover to sit quite right. There are some buckles that connect under the front fenders to keep it tight but I have to run them through the frame support bar at the top of the fender to keep air from going underneath and blowing it up like a balloon. I also can't get the sides to pull down underneath the way they should and ended up ripping one of the straps out of the stitches. I would still recommend it over any of the other covers out there and I have plans to modify mine to work once the snow is gone and I'm trailering it again. Hope this helps!

Behind the switch panel there is a 3 post bus bar,1 post is your ground, 1 for always hot, and the 3rd is a switched 12v with the ignition. You need to run the power from your rocker to the switched post. I don't recall off hand which is which but a multimeter or test light can help you there. I believe the is at least 1 post on here with some pictures of the bus bar if you try a search. Good luck, and share some pics when you're done.

I was able to run my overhead wiring down the passengers side b pillar through the roll cage. There are holes cut out on the top side and at the bottom cage bung that pops you into the engine compartment. From there I followed the rest of the cabling into the cab and either dumped it off at the battery, or continued to follow the factory harness under the floor and up to the dash. Hardest part is getting the wire fished through but with a fish tape of some sort you can make quick work of it. As for the backup camera, I mounted mine just below the tailgate and followed the taillight wiring all the way through the same location into the cab as the overhead wiring. I wrapped a little heatshield tape around the wiring everywhere the factory wiring had it as well. I'm running a 22 defender xmr but the chassis should mostly be the same. Hope this helps

I had a lot of trouble finding a seat belt extension as well, everything on the market is for a vehicle and the defender's clip is much bigger. I ended up making some extensions for the buckle rather than trying to extend the belt. Also makes it easier to clip in for everyone because youre not practically sitting on the clip. I just got some flat steel, cut some various length chunks, drlllied a hole on each end, then rounded off the edges with a grinder. Bolts from the hardware store and I was all set. I didn't have any heat shrink on hand so I wrapped them in electrical tape to avoid any chaffing on the seats. The plan is to add heat shrink this winter while im working on lighting and stereo. Depending on how much you raise it, any seats with the belt sensor for limiting speed may need to have the wires extended. There are bypass options available as well but I wanted to keep mine functioning with a teenage driver in the house. The box in the center seat that you can kind of see is a bed for the dogs so they can lay down. Bolts to the codder pins on the armrest and bottom of the seat for easy removal and goes up to the dash. 🙂

Search over on cam-amforum.com. there have been a few posts recently about the windows in cold weather. Basically the motors aren't rated for the colder weather and struggle to move.

I appreciate the concern, a lot of helpful people around here. I've read ALMOST every post on the majority of the topics here and have seen the struggles others have come across. My original post was getting long so I cut some stuff out but I've been installing mobile audio/video and lighting for about 2 decades so I know my way around a 12v system, as well as in home low voltage, 120/240v electrical, and solar. At the point I'm getting close to pushing the stator to the max, I'll be looking at upgrading to the 850w, unless a higher wattage one ever comes available. I also haven't decided if I want to wait until that point to add an accessory battery, or drop that in early on. Battery isolator is a must and I always run battery tenders on my machines as well. I'm good on the electrical side but always willing to take advice if there's a better way of doing things, or something I haven't thought of. The mechanical side is where I will struggle but just reading up here I've already learned a lot and look forward to learning more. I appreciate you looking out, it's nice seeing people willing to help others rather than cut them down.

Hello Hello, I'm Mike. I've been reading everything I can on here to enhance my knowledge in preparation for a new machine. Check out my Builds post for more info. https://www.defenderssv.com/forums/topic/1549-22-defender-xmr-build/