wendy

Thanks, DJLA. This is a louder noise than the CPU, it lasted 5-7 minutes after I shut her down the other day, and it was coming from the rear of the engine. It was a hot day and instead of the fan continuing after shut-down for its typical 30 seconds or so, there was no fan, just this whine. After reading Andy's post, I felt confident to drive it yesterday and was relieved to hear the engine fan running when I idled for a moment (it was a cool day, so it didn't come on while I was moving). The whine never occurred, which seems consistent with what I've now read in here about pressure relief valves and hot weather. So now I'm hoping my fan has nothing to do with this, and will see what happens in a couple days when they're predicting hot weather again. If it whines, I'll remove my gas cap for the final test and will post here with the results along with the question of whether I need to replace the valve. Thanks again for your input, you guys!

Thank you, Andystoy19! I'll try that. This isn't quite as high pitched as I imagine a balloon squeaking out air, but I sure hope this is in fact the problem as opposed to the fan not working properly. I'll update with what I find out. Thanks again.

My 2021 Ltd HD10 is making a whining noise which makes me wonder if it's my engine fan trying to work. Today, the whine continued for several minutes after I turned off the engine, and thinking back on my ride, I don't remember hearing the usually-frequent fan running during my last 5 miles. What could be causing this? And if it is fan related, what should I look for and how do I fix it?

Thanks, DJLA and RossO. I only use my cell for emergencies (yes, I'm a dinosaur who still loves my landline), and I don't have an ipod, so CDs are my method of amusement, but I do like that Milwaukee unit (and their tools), so if I can't find a rugged CD player, maybe I'll just go with a radio. That's a pretty cool setup with the JBL player. Wouldn't work for me, but I like the creative installation.

Instead of installing a sound system, I just want to bring along a small rechargeable boom box once in awhile. Has anyone else done this, and if so, do you have any recommendations for a unit that's loud enough to hear over the engine, can handle vibrations when playing a CD, and can receive radio signals while inside the vehicle?

I'm barely 5'2", and driving with my heel off the floor with my tip-toes incapable of maintaining steady contact with the accelerator, I had a serious problem. After rejecting all the pedal extenders that I found online, I solved the issue by doing two things: 1. I bought a "CONFORMAX Airmax Car Seat-Back Gel Cushion" that puts me less than 2" forward in the seat, but it's all I need. It's crazy expensive, but after trying a couple other cheaper versions that didn't help, this one has worked perfectly. I got it on amazon at https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKNLZEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2. I put a short 2"x6" board under my foot that ends just in front of the pedal (it doesn't go under it), which raises my foot enough to keep my heel on the floor. It's 27" long, which butts it up against the front of the seat so it can't drift backward away from my foot. I don't have a problem depressing the brake since I don't have to hold it for any length of time, but if I did, I'd just put another board in front of it too. Good luck and please keep us posted on whatever ends up working for you!

Thanks so much, RossO and Steelslinger. I'm constantly varying speeds on our dirt roads because they're completely riddled with award-winning pot holes, so that'll take care of that recommendation, and now I can relax about running the few stretches of pavement that I hit at higher speeds. Thanks again!

My primary use of my Defender Ltd HD10 is driving down the vast network of dirt/gravel roads that I live on, with occasional stretches of rural paved roads. I'm wondering what cruising speeds are considered non-damaging for these engines and also how long it's okay to hold at say, 30-45mph. The owner's manual only warns against running at full throttle for more than 5 minutes in hot weather. Since the digital speedometers on these things only tell us current speed, and not potential speed, I don't even know what rpm would constitute full throttle. In fact, everyone who admires my machine asks me how fast it can go, but I have no way of knowing. Anyway, bottom line, can I cruise around at 30-45 miles an hour for several miles without hurting anything?

Since I commented on getting a custom cable brake in my On-Road Insurance thread, I've had interest in how I got my Defender road-legal in Michigan. Here's what you need to know: 1) PROOF THAT WE'RE ALLOWED DO THIS: MI waffles on this issue, and many cops insist that the laws allowing this were permanently repealed, and thus, may even refuse to pass your inspection, but that's currently true only for quads in the southern part of the state. Go to https://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,4670,7-127-96435_1587_1588-25476--,00.html Assembled Vehicles. Read the whole thing, but especially: "Note: Off-road vehicles (ORVs), all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) and off-road dune buggies can be titled as an assembled vehicle for on-road use." 2) WHAT EQUIPMENT IS REQUIRED: Go to https://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,4670,7-127-96435_15242-34425--,00.html Off Road Vehicles (ORV). Read the whole thing, but especially: "The vehicle must be retro-fitted with high- and low-beam headlights, brake lights, taillights, turn signals, horn, windshield, windshield wipers and washers, independent parking brake, street-legal tires and all other on-road equipment required by the Michigan Vehicle Code. It will be retitled as an "assembled vehicle" and issued a new vehicle identification number." 3) BIGGEST EQUIPMENT CHALLENGE: Page 2 of Assembled Vehicles details what the independent parking brake must consist of: "the parking brake must be mechanical, and not hydraulic. Mechanical brake calipers activated by a hand lever and cable assembly can be bought from aftermarket vendors." 4) THE INSPECION FORM THAT A POLICEMAN WILL HAVE TO FILL OUT Go to https://www.michigan.gov/documents/TR-54_38480_7.pdf For the TR-54 form and note that it also lists a lighted license plate holder and a rear bumper as being required. I printed everything out in duplicate and studied it carefully. What worried me most was, they say that for the final inspection, you'll be told when and WHERE to take your vehicle. I have no way of hauling mine, but in fact, when I told them that, they happily sent the state inspector to my house. And for the initial inspection, which the website says must be done by a state policeman, that's not true. Any cop with a badge number can fill out the TR-54 form. I did find that I had to have a cop from my county, but it was no biggie. I also didn't know where to start the whole process because nowhere does the SOS offer a way to make an inspection appointment. Turns out, you make it yourself by calling your local cops. Also, my particular cop didn't sound like he knew where to get the form, so I printed it out for him. Several side-by owners told me it's not necessary to get a cable brake because the parking brake that comes on the Defender (and apparently others) will fool most policemen who do the initial on-site inspection. And that might've been true in my case. If I hadn't pointed out my cable brake, I think my guy would've passed the OEM brake. But the STATE INSPECTOR didn't look for anything else. She said the policeman had passed everything else, so she didn't need to do it again, and that her job was to pass the cable brake. As far as appointing your machine with all this stuff, I had the dealer install all 3 mirrors and the most aggressive road tires that are road legal, but I found everything else on amazon. My light kit was $330 and included directionals, flashers, and legal car horn. My lighted license plate holder was $10. For a bumper, they only require a bumper-step that you slide into your hitch receiver. The one I chose was $100. I won't quote the cost of my custom brake because that'll be something your own mechanic will decide, but suffice to say, it was several hundred dollars.

I'm so glad to see this thread. Saved me from posting just now to ask about the same thing with my 2021 Ltd. Glad to know it's normal.

Does anyone here have road-use insurance for their ORV in Michigan? If so, who is it with? I just got my 2021 Defender Ltd HD10 approved for road use in MI as an Assembled Vehicle (specifically, an Assembled Truck), but am having trouble finding an insurance company to cover it for liability and collision. Farm Bureau told me they'd fully cover it, but changed their mind. Progressive covered it as of 2 days ago (hence my having proof of insurance for the SOS today and being handed my plate), but this afternoon they decided to only cover liability. Everyone seems to be okay with the idea of a modified machine until they dig deeper and then they chicken out. I have a clean record of zero tickets, accidents, claims or late premium payments, so it's not me that they're shying away from. Thanks for any input! UPDATE: The answer turns out to be STATE FARM. Several independent agents searched umpteen providers and came up empty, but the guy who did my custom caliper job (for the independent cable brake system that MI requires) told me State Farm insures all his customers. Bingo! A local State Farm agent now has me fully covered. 🙂

Has anyone put a cable style parking brake on a Defender Limited HD10? I've done everything Michigan requires to make my 2021 street legal, but their verbiage on a "separate parking brake" states that it must be non-hydraulic using a cable and hand control (or I assume foot pedal). The factory parking brake that came on my machine appears to be on the same hydraulic line as the main brakes. Some people have told me that the inspectors will accept it, but this is a two stage deal in MI, and if I pass stage one only to be rejected at stage two, I've wasted my time and perhaps set myself up for extra scrutiny the next time around. Stage one is, a cop comes to inspect your machine, and if he passes it, he sends his results to the state which then tells you when and where your final inspection will be. From there, you apply for a license for secondary road use. The few kits I've seen online don't fit the Limited, but does anyone know how to either make one of the kits work, or how to build the whole thing from scratch? Thanks!

Hi all. Newbie here - just got my Defender Limited a couple days ago (yee haw!). I'm sure this is common knowledge to you guys, but I just realized how to tell that my doors are fully closed. They kept seeming to shut okay, but something told me they weren't tight. The beauty of suicide doors is you can see your latch. On the Defender Ltd, you can see the little, what I'll call claws, wrapping around a rod when the door is closed. However, my doors kept leaving a half inch gap between the tips of the opposing claws, when in fact there should be nearly zero clearance between them. So now I just glance at the latch to make sure the little claws are almost touching each other. Knowing the right amount of force to close my door is already second nature to me now, but every one of my passengers leaves that gap, which I can see from my side, so I know to tell them to try again. And, BTW, this is with at least one window open, so the reluctance of the doors to tightly shut isn't because of cabin pressure. Gilly D, I hope your wife is okay by now!