Steelslinger

I think this is the one they are talking about: https://can-am-shop.brp.com/off-road/us/en/715003399-driver-underseat-storage-bin.html

78" wide!?!? Holy F-. That's pretty much illegal almost everywhere for trail riding, so its a pure dune buggy machine for the southwest. Where the hell is this crap going to stop? Gonna guess this is $45k to $50k?

Front ones are mounted in the upper plastic header panel. Rear ones are mounted using C-Werks (Jamie Connelly on here and Facebook) speaker panels. Uses the screw mounts in the OEM roof that the OEM system uses. Fits perfect with the headliner.

Do a pressure test on the fuel pump/lines. Make sure it's pulling fuel up. Could be the oring on the pump cap isn't seated properly and isn't getting suction, or maybe something with the filter isn't allowing fuel in.

2019's its attached to the posts under the dash where everything else is located. It's a XT Max Cab machine, winch was factory installed.

I run a marine Infinity radio and 6.5" speakers. Decent enough sound for plowing and out riding around. I don't need a thumping car or home stereo system. Spent $500 or so. Bandlands will probably get you by just fine. I run a Bison bumper on mine and like it.

MN limits to 65" and 2000lbs. Dry Weight. No way these make it on trails legally. DNRs and Park Rangers are paying more attention to these things now as they become so popular. At some point they are going to start coming down hard on these big units. And frankly at some point, you have to rationalize, why? Full cabs, heat, AC? Its a f---ing mini truck that can't carry as much or go as far or on as many roads as a real truck. Not to mention the cost is the same as a nice truck or Jeep, etc. I railed against SxSs for a long time, saying as much "it's like driving a car in the woods", and then I eventually got one and you know what, I was right. It's not the same feeling as riding wheelers into the woods, not as fun. Mine doesn't hit the woods much, mostly around the country side and into town. Plowing in the winter.

Using the winch causes my light bar to flicker and radio to cut out, so I want to have them on a separate run/circuits. What setups have everyone used? Looking at relays to terminal posts. Right now everything is off the under the dash power block.

15 to 20 psi summer use around town (gravel/tar roads), 8 to 12 psi when trail riding and 12 to 15 psi for snow plowing duties.

I use Quadboss QBT846's (30x10x14r) and run a bunch of tar and gravel roads. Somewhere around 2000 miles, and solid still. 8ply radial, says DOT compliant but still an ATV tire on 14" stockers. MN for awhile was handing out fines for DOT certified LT tires on SxSs as our ATV definition stated 3 or more low pressure tires. So this was a way to skirt that. Not sure if they overturned that law, but I know they paused enforcement last year while they worked it out.

Not even a little. Not a fan of Polaris machines, except I do like the styling of the last generation of RZRs, and at that price point I will just buy a used Jeep. I love my Defender, but even at the price point I paid (25k) I still have a hard time justifying it. Maybe if I ranched/farmed or lived off grid it'd make more sense, but really mine is just a summer run around/trail rider, snowplow in winter machine. These things have just gone off the rails of what they were conceived for. Some days I just miss having a pair of wheeler's to go muck around with.

There is a certain point that once you raise the plow, the eyelet where you hook the winch to the plow is level with the winch drum, at which point the winch is fighting to bring the plow closer to the machine which it can't due to the push tubes, so the cable snaps. It's definitely helpful, once you have it set up, it will prevent the plow from being raised to high and snapping the cable. Without it, you have to be careful and vigilant when raising the plow to not bring it up too far. Easy to get distracted or not pay attention. I use a custom rigged joystick to control my plow in the winter, way to easy to accidently over retract. With the limit switch, I don't have to think about it, can easily focus on backing up the machine while raising the blade.

I have a set of these plates from Jamie (C-Werks) in my Max Cab, in the back.

I just bought the back wall liners themselves, not the kit as I already had a Cabbed model, just not a limited (2019, so pre-limited availability). But I believe most of those go on the bars to keep the panels from vibrating. I think you can see locations if you look at the parts diagrams: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/can-am/side-by-side/2023/defender-max-hd10-ltd-cab/enclosure-cab-isolations

Where are you located?

Not sure what the price is nowadays, but I went to my local dealer to get a set of front rims to match on the back of my machine, they were $140 each. I wouldn't pay more than 75-80 for OEM rims, especially if I had to ship them or drive to pick them up. At that point I'd just go get the ones from the dealer. Sold my OEM tires for $300 for all 4 right after I got the machine (almost no miles on them, maybe 50 total gravel miles), kept the rims. Not many people want factory rims, or tires.

I have a Midland one in mine. Didn't use any kit, just bought the radio and antenna.

Usually, most plow manufacturers sell the mount and the plow 'separate' as its one plow and push tube that will fit any machine with the model specific plow mount. Your list is missing the mount. 715002731

I have a '19 XT Max Cab, it has the arched A-Arms (not forward arms) and I just added the S3 Springs and run 30" Quadboss tires without rubbing.

Could be a bad gasket/oring around the wiper motor/arm shaft that goes through the glass. Take the housing off and look (or take it in if you have warranty still).

Just a mag mount one off amazon for like $35, xprite i think was the brand, no kit. Just never built anything to mount it on. Want to build something removeable that goes over the middle of the roof on a Max model. But haven't really needed it in the 4 winters I've used it, so not a priority.

The one I had bought to use (still haven't mounted it), even says it is not for use above 60mph. Think it has more to do with how strong the magnets are. Might want to look at a bolt on/perm mount style versus magnetic mount.

No, there is no signal wire to tap into. You can use a microswitch mounted in the shifter assembly to catch when the lever is shifted into reverse. I know there is a guy that makes backup light kit that does that.

Just so you know, in Minnesota, an ATV (class 1 or 2) is no longer classified as an ATV when tracks are installed. They become ORVs (think Jeeps and trucks) and are no longer allowed on ATV trails. Basically only private land, frozen lakes or ORV trails/roads.

You could use a contactless IR thermometer to see what is getting excessively hot to narrow down the area to focus on.