Steelslinger

I have two light weight plow events done already, functions great albeit slow. Raise and lower are as normal, but this actuator doesn't move fast at all, which I knew going in. Its not terrible (30 sec from angle lock to opposite angle lock), as you can run it while backing up or positioning, but a quicker actuator would make it better. The arm rest mounted joystick control is awesome for running this setup, hell even without the actuator angle, I like using it for the Up/Down over the dash mounted switch. All told, I'm in it for about $500 give or take. I used steel drops (ie remnants) for the brackets and arm rest, but that should be cheap even at todays prices. To me, well worth it.

Actuator brackets, actuator and plow all installed. I used nylon washers as spacers because the tube I used to make the brackets had a 1-5/8" ID vs 1" OD of the actuator shaft, I still need to add another as there is still a gap. Also, in these pictures, you can see that I drilled a hole and put a clip in to keep the angle lock lifted up. I did this instead of removing it to keep it for a failsafe, if the actuator ever fails, I can remove it and pull the pin and go back to manual operation.

Thanks. I was able to get it installed on the machine last week just in time for a plowable amount of snow. Its not 100% finished out, but its functional. I didn't get the connector in the controller wires nor did I get then run under the floor yet, so I have that to do. I also have a little more refinement to the arm rest yet to do, such as cleaning up the welds, hiding the wiring, painting it, putting an upholstered padded piece on the arm, and grip/padding for the bracket that hooks over the mid wall tubes. I mounted the second solenoid that runs the actuator on the frame under the dash and behind the passenger side lower cubby. I pulled power off the always hot post for the solenoid, and off the keyed power for the joystick switch. I ran the Up-Down wires to the winch solenoid, piggybacking on the dash switch terminals. With this setup, I feel the plow limit sensor is a must as it is easy to bump the joystick when shifting. The other two wires went to the actuator solenoid. I only had to run the two 10ga wires out the dash to the connector that connects to the actuator, I used PET mesh for the new wires that go outside, and then on advice of a friend I used some plastic spiral cable guard to protect the actuators wire from snow/ice damaging the outer insulation.

Could have been low oil, old oil seems a little too metallic for that few miles. I changed mine at 1200 miles and can't remember if it was that shiny. I'd get it changed asap, run it for the winter and then check it again in the spring. Stupid that the mount doesn't have a oil drain hole in it. First thing I'd be fixing.

No fluid, electric system

2019 Max Cab, with Eco on, 4wd off and diff lock off, road riding anywhere from 100 to 140 or so miles on 7 gallons roughly.

I messaged him through Facebook Messenger when I ordered mine.

Try changing the oil in the front diff. Look to see if there is anything abnormal in the oil (excessive shavings, chunks, water, etc).

Not sure, depends on how far forward the arms are I guess. You might even need longer axles depending on how much change there is. S3 springs will generally give about and inch to two pseudo lift (mainly just prevents the amount of sag from factory springs).

It depends on what it is that you want out of the machine. If you want a full cab with heat (A/C you have to buy a limited), buying a cabbed model is the best and cheapest way to go. If you want a windshield with a wiper, the OEM glass and wiper kit is the best one to go with although spendy. An XT model comes with a winch and a roof. Sometimes, its easier and cheaper to buy it with as much of what you want on it. There are some OEM accessories that are a bit cheaper than their aftermarket counter parts, or aren't available aftermarket. I was able to get the OEM tubular rock sliders for $275-ish for a Max model, most aftermarket ones were $400 or more. Most other things, aftermarket is cheaper and better, I went with an Infinity radio and speaker set up for $500 or vs. the $900 factory Jensen kit. Comparable head unit in features (AM/FM, Bluetooth, usb, aux in, 4x50w) but better audio quality, and bigger speakers (6.5" +LEDs) and used rear speaker supports from Jamie Connelly/C-Werks. Best thing to do, is make a list of the things you want, and price them out both ways from multiple sources.

Its one of the things I miss from my Grizzly 700, push button front diff locker.

Finally got back to this project as it has been on the back burner due to Youth Hockey practices and games. Found some time to start figuring the wiring out. I had ordered 10ga silicon coated wire for the section of wire from the solenoid to the actuator which will have a waterproof connector to detach the blade and a 20amp fuse holder to protect it. Running 14ga wire from both the factory winch solenoid and the solenoid I got to run the actuator under the center floor channel to come up behind the center front seat. At that spot, I'll have another connector (Duetsch 6 pin connector, 2 for up and down, 2 for left right and one for switch power) with a 10amp inline fuse to protect the joystick switch controller. Last night I was able to test wire the solenoid and switch to the joystick to verify it will operate the actuator properly. I'll get pictures tonight of the mess, I mean wire setup. Next up is building the removeable armrest controller holder. Hopefully I'll have that fab'd up tonight.

Same plan, but my warranty is already gone. Figure if/when the visco goes, I'll toss in the Halo Half-case.

Yeah they're nice to have, plus you dont have to use an adapter to charge phones or tablets. I grabbed a round one and drilled a hole where there is an indent next to the power outlet socket. That way tyou don't have to burn a switch spot. Similar to this one, although I had found a 4.8Amp one but lists it as unavailable. https://www.amazon.com/Charger-ADSDIA-Aluminum-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B07PN5YZX3/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+voltmeter+socket&qid=1639409390&sr=8-4

His name is Jamie Connelly (jamescconnelly@gmail.com), he is in most of the Defender Facebook groups. I don't think he has a dedicated site or anything. Several people on this forum have ordered from him as well.

You're going to want to seal up the front end to stop the drafts. So many spots that air and water get through the front wall.

The mounts from C-Werks are the way to go and pretty decent priced. Attaches to the roof under the headliner without needing to make any brackets, uses pre-existing standoffs.

I went with a simple setup using an Infinity system in my Cabbed '19 XT Max. I have 6.5" in the front and two 6.5" in the back using C-Werks speaker supports. You could get blanks from him and cut holes for 6x9s in them. I didn't run an amp as with my setup, the radio had enough power for the speakers I was running. There's a bit over an inch between most of the headliner and roof, some spots more but not sure how much. I've seen some guys mount them under the seats or behind the seat backs. I guess depends on the physical size of the amp you are going to use.

Only thing under the floor of the cab area is the drive shaft to the front diff.

The bolt spins? or the Secondary? Quick burp with an impact wrench should get it loose, otherwise need to find a way to hold the secondary while breaking the bolt loose (leaving in gear won't do it, need to physically hold the secondary itself). Common culprit would be a secondary roller.

Dealership doesn't install anything really. Most non-cab models, its tires and cage and fuel I believe, not 100% on that. Fuses and such would have been factory installed. I'm sure the dealerships start them up and move them to their showroom floor (or pickup dock) and that's it. As stated above, doubt any damage was done and if you've gone through the machine as far as other fuses and fluids, should be good.

Its better to get the machine from factory that has as many of the accessories you want (i.e. if you want a full cab with heat, buy the cabbed models) as its cheaper and easier than adding it later.

I would get the DPS

Any 30x10x14 should fit stock rims, only issue is the rears are going to be 1/2" to 3/4" shorter and will be fatter than the front due to the rim width. I've got Quadboss QBT846 8ply radial in 30x10x14 on stock rims.

It helps, but with a caveat. So I personally feel the Kilmat66 (Dynamat/Noico/etc) heat/noise insulation does a lot more for quieting down the cab. The mat also keeps your back from being burnt from engine heat. The trick though is you have to have to close off all gaps in plastics and roll cage, all openings. The OEM acoustic panels do help with heat and noise, but I think I noticed it less because I had already done the Kilmat66. Another thing it does help with, especially if you have the roof liner too, is cuts down on the hollow/echo sound when inside the cab. Also looks better. I used a decibel meter app on my phone (not calibrated so not guaranteeing scientifically accurate) but its been awhile since I did it so I don't remember the numbers or exact conditions. So I'll have to redo the readings soon. After I did the Kilmat66 it was easier to have conversations, only have to talk loudly to the backseat and they (backseat) do have to talk somewhat loudly to be heard by front seat passengers. The acoustic panels made it better but you're still not going to have whispering conversations, but you don't have to scream either. Bottom line, I would recommend doing both, Kilmat66 (or similar product) and the OEM Panels (use the 2021 part number for a Max vs. the 2020 as the 2020 one has those slots on the drivers side which coincide with the supports for the adjustable driver's seat backrest supports, in the 2021 model they are just indents in the panel. The passenger side one is for a vent for the battery and is the same in 2020 and 2021 versions of the panel). Kilmat66 was like $50 and the OEM panel kit was $150, so $200 invested. For what I got, it was worth it. Now I just need to finish blocking off airflow through the dash from the Radiator and it should be comfortable during the summer.