Steelslinger

Only a guess, but I would say that they're soldered on more than likely.

I run 30's on my 19 Max Cab HD10 and just swapped the springs in the primary and secondary sheave with ones from EPI (CAPS2 and QRS2) for a grand total of $55. Great response from the throttle.

So for those that are interested in adding the Fabric Liner Panel used on the rear wall of 2020+ Limited Cabs in 2019 and earlier models, I went ahead and decided to do it. Here's the run down. These came as a kit with two panels, a large one that covers the drivers side and the top half of the passenger side, and a small one that covers the lower half of the passenger. The whole panel set covers from the bottom of the window to the top of the ledge under the seats and all the way across inside the frame sides. Part No. 705800581 - Liner Kit for 2020 HD8, HD10 and HD10 Max, plus the 2021 HD10 Pro. Part No. 705800582 - Liner Kit for 2021 HD8, HD10 and HD10 Max The kit I used was 705800581 that I purchased from my local dealership for $140. Previously, I had covered the entire back wall using Mat66 which is a product of the same type as Kilmat and Dynamat, 80 mil self-adhesive Butyl automotive sound and heat dampening material. I used this stuff to also block gaps between the frame and outer plastics, as well as frame and the back panel and any holes in the back panels. I went from side to side and bottom of the window down to the floor. This provided significant heat dampening, as before my kids would complain that after an hour or so riding on a warm day, their backs where very hot and felt burning. After applying the Mat66, the said it was warm but very tolerable. The surface would be hot, but 2" away and you would barely feel warm air. Soundwise, it reduced engine noise enough that I didn't have to scream at my kids in the back, still have to talk loudly. Installing the liner kit was actually pretty easy. I had studied what was in the way and would need trimming before committing to it. I removed all the seats to have more room to look it over. you also have to remove the rear glass. Dealer had told me that Can-Am had made slight changes to the back wall from the 2019 and older to the 2020+ models. I believe the recesses for the recoilers are further apart in the older models, as well as the seat belt latches are higher. The recesses will cause the panels to not be able to perfectly line up together at the bottom, your choice whether to trim off the liner that goes into this recess or not. I didn't, I left them there. You will need to trim out for the seat belt latches. You can see in the photos how I trimmed mine using molding contours, I think I over trimmed a bit, so be conservative. I also trimmed under the back window clamps. I have the OEM sliding window. The bottom clips have this rubber piece that sits under the plastic clip that is contoured to the cross tube, I cut a notch out just barely wider, and just below the radius of the bend on the liner to allow that rubber piece to sit on the bar. But I have the plastic clip go over the liner to hold it in. I installed this in the back of a Max, so on the drivers side I had to cut out notches for the seat back attachment. There are marked indents on the back side of the liner as a guide. You do not have to do this if you are putting this into a 3-seater that has a sliding drivers seat. be careful, these indents can be tough to pierce with a knife then suddenly cut real easy. Otherwise the fabric is real easy to trim so be very careful. Install large piece first, then the small piece. Lastly, there are five holes for screws (OEM for Limiteds), you will have to drill holes into the frame. I only did the three on the cross tube and used plastic push rivets. The only issue I've found is the seat bottoms catch the liner's bottom edge (driver side) and this weird bump out (on passenger side) when flipping them back down. Just have to push them out of the way when doing it. Due to the recess for the armrest/center seat back you have to slam it when putting it back up. Mostly an annoyance. I haven't tested it out for sound yet, but hope to Sunday. Heat blocking test will have to wait til summer.

Look for Bill Givans on the defender Facebook groups. He has chronicled his build very well, including adding a force turbo kit. Runs it for ice fishing with tracks and a custom bed topper.

Seizmik mirrors

$6 sensor bypass on eBay. Mainly for short cruises or working around the house, trail rides I suck it up and wear it.

Feel free to send that snow back to Minnesota. If it's going to be cold, I want the snow to go with it. Wondering why I bothered to put the plow on.

I download maps with OnXoffroad and Avenza, otherwise I just use my phone as a hotspot.

Samsung Galaxy Tab A 8 in. With a ram mount.

See your other post

Cylinder/Piston jack, smaller to store easier, safer. Keep a piece of 3/4 plywood or something to put the jack on in the mud/soft ground or find a rocky surface.

Step on the brake or rock the machine to make sure its in Park. The lever can be in park but the transmission might not be, may need to rock it slightly to get it into park. Otherwise, just always apply the brake before starting. It will start in any gear as long as the brake is pressed.

Anything Fuel Injected nowadays is going to be set to run 87 octane from factory. Re-programming and performance mods with advanced timing or high compression would be needed to run anything higher without issues.

Stock tires are only 6 ply, low load rating and soft side walls, they will bulge a lot with too much weight

Make sure you check the on dash gear indicator, often times the machine will not go into Park, and if you rock it, you can hear it click into Park. Otherwise, just always use the Brake when starting, it will start in any gear then.

I have the kilmat insulation on the back wall, same as some others. I'm thinking of doing the 2020/21 acoustic panels for extra sound and thermal insulation as well as looks.

S3 springs will help with suspension sag and stability.

Plenty of trails in MN, just not much on the south side

Rarely hear anyone say "I bought too powerful of a machine", but I see plenty of posts on "How do I make my HD5 or 8 have more power?"

I don't have any yet myself, but I have been looking at Ruff Tuff Custom Seat Covers (rufftuff.com)

Welcome Dave, what part of Minnesota are you from? I'm over in Long Prairie/Sauk Centre area.

I have S3 Springs on a 2019 Max Cab XT with 30" tires and my machine is at 78" tall.

The diffs are not run dry, Front is 14oz. 75W-90 and Rear on HD8 and HD10 is 1.5 quarts of 75w-140.

50" or 52" will span the whole front width of the machine. You can get the GS mounts for Jeeps from Amazon to attach the bar to the cage pillars, may need to trim the roof corners or modify the brackets to work with flip up glass with wipers.