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dkdesign

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dkdesign last won the day on July 27 2022

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  1. Micah welcome to the forum and enjoy the new ride! If you have a lone star edition I assume you may have plastic headliner at front of roof and possible fabric headliner on the rest. there will be a power stub being the plastic headliner as well. Then you don't need to run wires from dash to mirror. enjoy Dan
  2. I have 22 limited max, so it has roof liner not factory stereo roof, however I did install radio and speakers. i installed my back up camera to the back of the cab, not on the tailgate (when sprayer tank installed, i remove tailgate) Wires were ran entirely under roof liner and power,wired to power stud installed behind plastic head liner) switch, ( so I can turn off camera at night) and fuse located in headliner. i also installed back up lights in rear bumper. This was also connected to same power location in roof. Wire was also run above headliner to rear B pillar. Pillar has a hole to run down to engine and frame then to bumper. These are two switches you can see in pick with camera. I like camera on cab. This replaces rear view mirror to see what is following or approaching and helps keep track of anything in bed. I installed with formed metal to protect against any tree branches contacting camera when back up in the woods.
  3. On my 22 limited max, doors (old style) were terrible as delivered. I spent a lot of time making better, but still not great. When I had them adjusted so they sealed the best, rubber seal ending up wearing a hole thru the top of the seal just above the door handle by rubbing on A pillar after 7 months. My dealer replaced seals no charge, and also adjusted doors. Then gaps again. After adjusting for better seal, I can see they will wear thru again. I now regularly condition/lubricate the seal in hopes to make last longer. The doors just do not match the opening well. I assume this problem has not been resolved with new door design. that is disappointing as they do look great and I love the fact you can roll rear windows down.
  4. Yep. Very easy to do. Need to remove all plastic push pins around perimeter of door. A few of the plastic push pins came out harder than the rest. I have a supply to replace damaged ones. I would recommend having proper removal tool for these. Need to carefully remove window switch. There is a screw to hold door handle that needs to be removed. Makes tinting a breeze.
  5. I did hook up to power post in dash, but all works correct. To me if yours works as you describe it could be a wiring (ground) or possible switch problem.
  6. Congrats on finally getting the new ride Dewman! Enjoy. do you have any liner or front plastic liner on the roof? If not that will be your first purchase or fabrication.
  7. Welcome to the forum from a fellow cheesehead. Looks like you have the full spectrum of toys to enjoy!
  8. Question: What is the Translation of CanAm Visco Lok?? Answer: Junk (to put it lightly) I finally solved this problem with my buggy. New Halo front locker. This thing is awesome! Parts are machined and packaged wonderfully. Only slight downside is zero instructions included. There are some links to helpful videos on their site as well as some additional youtube vids. After watching a few I gained the confidence to tear apart the front end of a new machine. I went the kit route, meaning I reused my existing carrier, added included steel shims in the carrier to replace the plastic stock ones that have far too much slop, removed the ViscoLok (junk), installed new 4 pin locker, new machined half-case, motor actuator, wire harness, and switch. I did make the mistake (yep I can admit that) in leaving one of the original clutch plates from the visco lok in place. It is 0.002" thick clutch plate that was stuck to the carrier with the tacky visco grease. This caused the diff to be always locked. Before completing the install, I did notice it seemed the Diff was locked, but I thought I needed to complete it and power it up to unlock it (this is not true, so if it does not lock and unlock when bench testing, something is wrong). So, I continued re-assembly and on initial movement, I realized it would not unlock. After a brief call to Halo Help line, Kelly immediately told me I left a clutch plate installed. After much skepticism and reluctance on my part I had to start over. Upon taking the machine apart (again) I found the culprit. It was exactly as Kelly said, and after I removed the left-behind and hidden plate all worked wonderful! Apparently I was not the first guy to do this. So word of caution, ensure all visco plates are removed, this sounds simple, but I can attest this can be easily overlooked. I conquered another challenge on this install. That is to get wires from the front of the machine into the dash. After much exploration, I found an existing hole with grommet and one wire with room for more behind the top shock mount on the driver's side. If you take the plastic cover off inside the wheel well that covers the master cylinder (removed with 1 plastic push pin) you will have a little better access to this hole. This hole is specifically designed for the guy with a 4' long skinny arm, 2 opposing elbows and a small hand to access. After some determination and intuition, I was able to fish the wire harness thru this hole (I ended up removing the connector from the end of the wire harness and installed from inside the machine out, then re-installed connector). I did connect to the power terminal in the dash and included a 5 amp fuse and connected to the included rocker switch. The stock version of this diff has been a huge disappointment ever since I realized how it worked (or didn't work). I took delivery of this bike in early Feb so there was snow on the ground by me. On some initial rides I realized I only had '3 wheel peel' in the snow. I have hunting trails on my own property that I could not traverse with this machine in stock form, even though I could take my entry level fully stock Polaris 570 Ranger on because it has a locking front diff. I had a Huge smile on my face after conquering these trails with the Halo installed. I feel this is a must have after-market accessory for me (and I'm sure many others, even though I think it should be standard equip). I am very Happy with rapid shipping, packaging, customer service, and function from Halo and would recommend to all. This is a relatively easy mechanical install for anyone with a few tools and slight mechanical mind. My first removal and install took most of the day including youtube time. After the 2nd time of tearing apart and knowing some shortcuts, I can now take the diff from machine to bench in 25 minutes with my 12 year old son helping. Diff can be taken apart and Halo kit installed in less than a half hour and another 25 mins to re-install and have machine ready. Wiring took several hours, but most of that was removing items to explore where to run wires. Had I known about the access I ended up using, time would have been MUCH less.
  9. Welcome to the forum. I assume you have the new style doors and roll down rear windows. How do you like them? Do they close and seal well? Enjoy the new ride!
  10. I have not personally tried it, but I either read it or was told that somewhere.... I am sure it is with the deeper offset the rear rim has will limit turning when on the front. Will it work as temp fix??-probably... someone else may have better answer. I choose to go the route of all tires and rims the same. I'm using stock rims after buying 2 new fronts to install on the rear on 30x10 tusks. Originally I would have bought 30x11 for the rear, but wasn't able to get them in the Terrabites. I like the look of the stock rims, and honestly the 9" wide front looks better with those 10" wide tires than the wider rear rims originally did before I swapped them. So if you want them, I have two rear new rims off a 22 limited max....
  11. Hey BD. That's genius! Have seen many items used for temp plug for a cut tire in back country, but never bacon. I guess you have enlightened us all on a new required item for our tool kit - grill to cook bacon! - also if I am not mistaken, you can't mount a factory rear wheel on the front, but can mount factory front on the rear. A better spare would be a factory front.
  12. In my 22 limited max one of the first things I added was an under the center seat gun rack that many other forum guys have. I decided I could build it better (and cheaper) than just buying the 'plug and play' version available. i purchased the Kolpin brand holder. It is identical to the can am version without the can am sticker (and price). Just to mock it up faster I used a finished grade plywood vs cutting and bending light gauge steel. The original attempt worked ok for me, but I was not completely satisfied. Most of the Arsenal that will be carried with me here are AR platform weapons, most with sizable optics. The 'grip' was basically at the level of the optics. The highest level I could mount the grips was 19" when mounted flush with center seat. The front of most of my optics are about 22-25" measured from the butt to the top of the optics. This did not allow a solid grip (see attached pic). The grip went around the gun, but it could move around and when most secure the clamps where against the optics (which I don't want). I added 'Gun Gripper' butt stock grips on the floor to make it so the weapon would not move on the floor. This helps a great deal and I would highly recommend these no matter what gun you carry! I will be doing a 'take two', well actually a 'take three' on this to raise the level of the clamps high enough to clear optics. I feel this will be the best for me. I have far too much invested in guns (and optics) that I will allow a sub par holder. I want it to be rock solid, so when my 'truck gun' is secure, it is completely secure. Stay tuned for my better version... The grips sold and installed as others have done will work best for guys with shot guns or weapons without optics. i hope this helps others who have a similar arsenal that needs to be secure. DK
  13. Thank you Coach Thank you Andy Thanks to all who have shared thoughts and pics on this site and looking forward to everyone's insight. Dan Here is a look at the buggy as it sits now (more improvements to come...)
  14. I have 30x10x14 Tusk Terrabite all around. I should say i 'ordered' 30x10x14 and they are marked 30x10x14, but they run small- actual height is 28 1/4" -28 3/8". I see nor feel no difference vs. stock in performance, but have yet to GPS top speed. They have a good all around tread and run down hard surfaces much better than stock. I would have preferred a true 30" tire, I guess if that was a Tusk, I should have ordered the 32"
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