DewMan

That would be nice for the right need but the price seems excessive for what amounts to a couple feet of wire, a few inline fuse holders, a short section of heat shrink and a hand full of connectors. You're definitely paying for the convenience of not having to assemble the relatively cheap parts yourself.

Update: I've replaced the OEM Yuasa battery with a new topped off Odyessy PC1200, which I was wanting to do anyway, but unfortunately it did not solve my slow cranking issue. The hunt for the cause continues. My next step will be to follow the cranking circuit to see what I can find. maybe I'll get lucky and find a loose nut other than the one behind the steering wheel. 😁 If anyone else has run into the slow cranking issue with a known good battery. I'd love to know what the issue ended up being. Thanks for your time and attention.

My forum search was fruitless so I thought I could learn from from everyone else's experience here. Any help would be appreciated. The issue I'm testing the battery for is slow cranking when engine is cold and even slower cranking when the engine is warm almost since day one. I have had no other issues with it. The machine was bought new and is garage kept and has just over 100 gentle miles on it in the 1.5 yrs I've had it. All OEM engine/charging/starting parts including the battery. The issue existed prior to the install of rarely used aftermarket lights and stereo. The issue has finally annoyed me long enough that I devoted some time to trouble-shoot it. Using an electronic battery tester, hooked up between Negative & Positive terminals with a cold motor( as cold as 80 degree temps allow), I ran the following in vehicle tests: 1) Battery test - Passed 98% charge 415 CCA 12.99v internal resistance 7.15mOhms 2) Cranking test - LOW 9.31V while cranking 3)Charging system test - Passed Loaded 14.27V Unloaded 14.3V Ripple 70mV The question I have is "Is my ASSumption that since I read the low cranking voltage between the battery terminals that the battery is bad?" or do I need to check the cranking circuit further for loose or corroded connections?" I've already confirmed the battery terminals themselves are tight. If you're still reading this I thank you for your interest and patience.

OK, excuse my ignorance, but how are you able to turn a corner/curve at more than 2mph without tipping this top heavy beast?

FYI: Still delayed on the 2022 as well. I logged on to ask this same question.👍

Thanks for the response @Andystoy19.Yeah, I'm aware of the shortcomings of even the 850w stator... why no one makes an aftermarket stator that can handle higher loads is beyond me. I'm pretty sure there's a missed market for them. Prior to putting in a second battery I'm looking at replacing the current battery with an Odyssey Extreme PC1200 which is, as I understand it, a hybrid standard/deep cycle battery for more CCA (540) and more load capacity. It's a squeeze but it'll fit. And if I still have issues I'll then look at getting a second battery with isolator etc as well. The lights will normally only be used for short durations of 5-10 mins getting from point A to B.

I've read all the existing related threads I could find as well as googled wiring options. I've decided to do the following to power all three power hungry items. Please let me know if I'm there's a better way to power all of this. The light bars ( 50" 450w Front and 22" 180w rear) are mounted to the front and rear roll bars under the sport roof. I've installed the 200w Stereo in the front roof liner overhead #715003098 that I'm installing. The total load for all three is right around 77amps if all run at the same time, which I can't see me doing very often if ever, but I want to wire it to handle the load just incase. My plan is to run an 80amp fused 6 gauge wire from the battery directly to the front roof liner overhead. I'll use a secondary fuse block mounted behind the stereo liner that will be Key-on powered via a 120amp relay wired just before the secondary fuse block where each light, rocker switches and the stereo will be wired directly to. Light switches will be mounted on the stereo roof liner's existing knockouts. As for routing from the battery to the overhead, I'd like to wire it inside the A pillar preferably down to the dash then through the trans tunnel to the battery located in the under deck storage area unique to the Pro. I'll run the key power for the 120amp relay from behind the dash at the existing accessory powered lug. I'm assuming I can just ground the fuse block to the roll cage? Any thoughts on how you'd do it it differently? Or if I'm doing anything that doesn't sound reasonable or dangerous? Thanks for your time and attention. It's much appreciated. I'll get pictures and post them as this progresses.

This checked all my boxes and I ordered it from Amazon for USD $175, It's power rating was for 4ohm speakers unlike the Rockford Fosgate's 50w @ 2ohm rating so I shouldn't need an amp. Much appreciated @Steelslinger . You just cost me $200 but saved me a ton of work.😁👍

Yep I looked at that one.... per the owners manual: "USB Operation The USB port on the back of the device is for firmware updates and charging devices only. Using it as an audio source will not work." Edit: after talking to Rockford Fosgate tech you need at least a PMX-1 or higher to get USB playback. But they rate their 4x50w per channel at 2ohm speakers. That would only be 25w RMS at the 4ohm Kicker speakers I have unless I fork out even more $$ for an amp to go with it. For the extra money that would cost, I'll be happier keeping my Pyle Marine single DIN head unit even though it will require additional work to install. I appreciate the efforts RossO.

From what I've read those require external power and only support Udrive connections.. not a generic thumb drive of MP3/FLAC files unfortunately. I appreciate the replies regardless 👍

Unfortunately the Universal Bluetooth Rocker Switch Audio System only lists the USB port as a USB charging port but unfortunately not a thumbdrive reading port.

I listen to my music from a memory card/thumb drive. I ordered a Pyle marine boat radio which comes in a one DIN format that has slots for both SD/USB. I couldn't find a radio in the other round format marine radios that supported either type of input. If anyone's aware of one that has support for SD/USB storage play, that would be awesome. Edited for clarity.

Thanks. I have the front plastic Stereo liner but I'm going to need to rework the middle metal bracket to make room for the width of the one DIN radio.

I finally took delivery of my XT Pro a couple days ago. It barely fit on the 12ft trailer. I had to removed the ramps and put them in the bed of the Defender. The Defender's 113"/287cm wheelbase was almost as long as the Jeep GC's 121"/309cm wheelbase. In hindsight I should have backed it onto the trailer to better distribute the weight. I couldn't take it much over 60mph before it would start to sway. Luckily it was only a 50mi/80km trip. Now to figure out how to install a one DIN marine radio into the Can Am front roof liner. Anyone seen a thread where that's been done?

My apologies if this has already been covered but I was unable to find an existing thread on the subject. I'm not finding any service manual available for my soon to arrive 2022 Defender Pro XT. Considering there are no major updates from the 2021 model is there any reason not to just get the service manual for the 2021 model? Thank you for your time and attention. DewMan