Andystoy19

You can crank your stock springs to maximum (adjuster on the shocks) and that will give you some free lift without compromising the ride and will reduce the rubbing which might occur on uneven terrain but should be minimal.😉

I don't know about 32" but I am running 30" (in the build section). Power can be raised a bit with a flash from MFI(in the builds section) and a clutch kit from EPI, Dalton or others will make the most noticeable difference (in the builds section). You need to get the engagement RPM up and allow the engine to increase RPM more than stock so that it gets into the power sooner. JMO😉

If your battery is new and good(as stated) than you can check the grounds and starter cables for corrosion and damage. After doing a couple of start cycles carefully touch the starter cables and see if they are hot, one of them may have some damage and isn't carrying enough current? It may be the starter motor itself but I don't have any info on how to check for excessive current draw or low voltage at the starter?🤔

Nice but way to pricey for me.🤑

Mike, I am not sure which defender you have but there is a lot of info on this site in the garage/builds section: www.defenderssv.com/forums/topic/347-2019-defender-xt-cab-led-light-bar-front-and-back/ Hope this helps.🙂

Not unless you have a problem and or are taking the skid plate off a lot?🙂

Check out my thread in the build section, same machine already had a different front end and nicely runs 30"x11x14 all around, I turned up my spring settings on all four corners and added a slight lift, no rubbing except on very uneven ground.🙂

If you haven't checked out the builds section go there and read a few of the builds. I have a 2019 Defender XT HD10 cab and my build is in there, it may have a different front end than the 2018 that you have. If you haven't already done so raise your spring tension to max and that may be enough to get rid of your rub. Mine has a lift and the springs at max with no spacers and no rub. There are other threads in there that you can check out.😉

I don't know what is causing your limp mode but you have a serious clutch problem if you have replaced 6 belts. The clutches are slipping big time and running at very high temperature which results in catastrophic belt failure. When you take your belt guard off is there any water or mud in there that got in through the breather? Have you taken your primary and secondary clutches apart, cleaned and inspected all the parts, you may have belt fragments logged in places that are affecting the belt holding performance or possibly broken secondary clutch buttons. After thoroughly cleaning the clutches with soap and water you can remove the glaze on the pulley face by gently scrubbing then with a scotch guard pad. In stock program the dash will display a warning if you have belt slippage, but I am not aware of any connection to limp mode. Are you driving around in Low R or H? Low should reduce your clutch slippage and belt temperatures significantly. Where did you purchase your portals and what do they suggest? I don't have any experience with Portals. I have an EPI clutch kit in my machine and although low mileage I am still on the factory belt. Off road when putting in the back country I am in L range.😉

I have the monster FI tune for my 2019 HD10, it is tuned for 91 and that is what I run. You should be able to run the 91 no ethanol regardless of your dealers advice.😉

Welcome to the forum, a good place to start reading is the garage/builds section, it has some good writeups with pictures and comments that can help you research what you want to buy.😉

As long as you are on warranty I would recommend that you use the BRP oil and filter after that use what ever product you think meets the manufacturers spec and your budget, there is never a concensus on oil brand or filter.😉

The picture is in this thread 2nd picture down🙂

I have the one in the picture under the passenger seat and the can am one that bolts into the front of the box for all the larger stuff, might be a picture in the builds section.🙂

I have owned the canam quads since they first came out and most were in the deep a few times and I did not grease the wheel bearings on any of them. I have ridden with quads of different manufacture and none of them had a bearing failure while riding with us. I haven't had to grease the wheel bearings on the many cars or trucks and no failures either. I do grease the suspension points with grease nipples every fall to try and displace any water that may be in the joint itself. I do give the trailer bearings with grease buddies a shot or two of grease after retrieving the boat, sea doo etc. in the fall but the pontoon boat has oil in the bearings and has not been serviced since new in 2012. On the other hand many feel the need to grease and since its their machine they get to decide.😉

Welcome to the forum, there is some play in the helix from the factory that gives you more of a knock than a jerk when you shift to reverse. Part of the problem may be your idle speed when you first start the engine but it should drop and reduce the clunk when its warm. Ease into the throttle when you shift to reverse if you can so that the primary clutch grabs the belt more softly and reduces the clunk. Drive the machine and enjoy it; hopefully it will become more normal and less noticeable to you.🙂

Good to hear that they finally looked at the secondary and that you are up and running.😉

Welcome to the forum, if you look at the garage section on the forum under Defender builds you will find many threads on different accessories, many with pictures.🙂

I run 30x9x14 in front and 30x11x14 in the back and no spacers. It drives nice on the road and in the muck and I don't walk behind to see if the front and rear tires line up.😉

If one tire spins than it is likely your rear locker is not engaging. I have included the page from the manual if you want to check it yourself if not confirm that it is not working at home and than take it to the dealer for warranty.🙂

Didn't mean to come off harsh but they look like parts replacers, replacing many of the same parts but no where do I see that they looked at or checked your secondary. Good luck with getting it fixed by someone that knows what to look for and the recommendation that you need a new clutch may be a good assessment on their part because they do not appear to be able to figure out and fix what needs replacing. The shop manual has wear limits on all the moving parts in both the primary and secondary clutches. Before paying them to order and install a new clutch I would ask them to explain why a new primary is necessary and if they checked and cleaned your secondary? Hope you get it fixed soon and you get at least 4000 trouble free miles.🙂

You don't provide much information just that the clutch is bad and chewing up the belt and smoking (slipping). There are two clutches in the defender a primary and a secondary. The primary clutch consists of a spring that controls engagement, upshift RPM and weighted arms that control the centrifugal force that grabs the belt. There is a bushing that may be worn and is causing the sliding half of the clutch to wobble and is an easy and cheap replacement. The secondary clutch has a spring and ramps with buttons on the ramps that resist the upshift from the primary to keep the necessary belt tension and backshift when the engine RPM slow down. The buttons are plastic and break sometimes causing the clutch to bind and not backshift when it should; resulting in slippage and a loose belt. Both clutches should have been disassembled and cleaned at the time of warranty work and checked for wear etc. The belt dust can be detrimental to operation of the clutches so its part of regular maintenance. The third part of your drive system is the belt, is it the correct belt? At 4000 miles (depending on use) it was probably worn way beyond its replacement width 1.445" which is the service limit? After the clutch was repaired the first time and not fixed I would have been looking for a different repair shop.JMO😉

Did you check your alignment as per your previous post if not that is the place to start? I am not aware that the power steering needs to be reprogrammed.🙂

Well after being on back order for two years I recieved word from Demon that they will not be building or stocking any of 3059 or 3060 HD axles.🙁

I believe that the bus bar under the dash has two sources of power one battery power always on and one key on. If no power to the bus bar at all check the 40 amp fuse under the front hood panel.🙂