Andystoy19

I would suspect that you have a problem with the axles (as mentioned above) or brakes dragging etc. If you have so much heat at the axles you must also be using a lot of throttle. Does the machine coast at all when you let off the throttle or does it stop. You should determine the problem of excessive heat in the driveline before you damage the rear diff etc. If you replaced the boots before; did you also replace the lubricant if not you will probably need new axles?🤔

My manual is pre smart lock so no help here, let us know what the dealer says, hopefully you still have warranty.🙂

Interesting mod, if you want to reduce back pressure (response on the top end) you would want the mod to have a flowing area that is at a minimum the same as the area at the end of the stock exhaust (pie x diam) and potentially larger to allow for some plugging of the steel wool over time. If you are already there enjoy the reduced noise.👍

I received the rhino 2 rear axles today and found that they were made in China, dissappointed. They might even come from the same plant as the Demon ones?? I will update the thread on how they fit etc. when I get around to installing them. 🤔

I have alpha leds on mine but there should be several threads in the build section (lighting) that will give you different makes of bulbs and the pros and cons. If not check out the skidoo forum as the electrical system will be similar. Try not to go above 5000 K as the higher you go the more blue the light becomes and the less it illuminates. I have a small light bar on the front and back of my cab and its shown in the: There are many videos on you tube that will give you more info about the different bulbs and make sure you check the alignment of the light with the new bulb and adjust for the best pattern you want as different bulbs may change the height of the beam and or distort it.🙂

Wow that's nasty, I would check and change, if required the fluids in the front and rear diff and transfer case and engine. If the engine is running well you should be okay it may require the valve lifters to be reset. The wheel bearings may need to be regreased. You can take the clutch cover off and blow or wipe all the belt dust off and do a visual check of the drive and driven pulleys and replace any worn components and the belt if its worn. Spark plugs, fuel filter and air cleaner, antifreeze etc should be checked and replaced. If the machine is running well enjoy it, I am not aware of any mileage limit if you keep up the maintenance.🤔

Just the drivers side seat belt will limit the speed as far as I know but I have clipped the drivers side belt into the passenger side by mistake and wondered what was going on.🙂

Probably fuel related, loosen the fuel filler cap and listen to see if you have pressure or a vacuum when you start to loosen it. If yes, you may have a problem with the vent or the intake air both located on top of the fuel tank connected by clear plastic lines next to the large opening where you remove the fuel pump. There are several threads on here how to find and replace the vents if necessary? When you turn the key on, do you hear the fuel pump cycle if not it may be the fuel pump?🙂

You can buy the push pins from Can Am or from an auto parts store and they are easier to remove if you have the tool which slides under the edges and helps pry the pin out. If you don't have the tool you can use a flat blade screw driver and pliers to get it out. I recently had the bottom of the door panel off and it does collect sand and mud if you get into the deeper stuff but nothing down low to maintain. You can spray the door lock mechanism with a spray lubricant through the latch opening.🙂

I checked the older shop manual and supplement up to 2018 and there is no mention of zerks or lubrication on the front or rear prop shaft. They do mention checking the U joints for play. 🙂

I ordered the rhino 2 rear axles through revco.ca today. Demon powersports informed me that if you are looking for the rear axles for the 2019 Defender XT Hd10 cab you can order the ones for the XMR and they are the same. They say they stock the front axles in the rugged line but are out of stock.🙂

I contacted S3 and they have confirmed that they now carry rhino 2 rear axles, both are the same: SKU :AX-7-67-R-0-DT-001#HJ for the rear axles. They do not make or carry the front axles. Demon Powersports: I have had an order/back order in since Feb 2021 for a full set of axles (4) and they must have missed the boat, no updates and no axles.🤔

A good place to start is by reading the builds section in the defender garage on this forum, there is a lot of good info there on tires, batteries, lights and I think snorkels as well. I have ridden in some pretty rough terrain and muskeg and haven't bent anything except that I broke both front axles in one deep off camber hole. Speed is not your friend in the steep or deep. If your riding with a Honda group you shouldn't have any problem staying ahead with a good set of tires. JMO🙂

Not really, the front is held up partially by the black plate, depending on if you need access to the front or the back you may not need to remove all the screws etc.🙂

You can check a couple of things: 1) When the engine stops try opening the fuel fill and see if the tank has pressure or if the tank is on vacuum, this might indicate that your pressure bleed off or your air intake are not working properly. I know it doesn't address your going down hill directly. 2) You can unscrew the large fitting on top of the tank and carefully lift the assembly up to see if you can see any problem like a kinked or cracked hose or tangled float etc. The pump assembly may be spring loaded so that it can reach the bottom of the tank. FWIW.🙂

I couldn't open or unlock my passenger door on the cab model with a key or using the latch from the outside but the door latch opened from the inside. Closer inspection through the latch window on the inside showed part of the latch with a hole for a pin and a cable eye further back inside. The drivers side revealed that a pin held the cable eye onto the back of the latch with a washer and a cotter key. Removed the two push pins at the bottom inside of the door and carefully pulled the plastic past the door seal so that I could look inside and found the pin, the cotter key and the washer. Using a pair of needle nose pliers with a 90 degree bend I was able to replace the pin into the cable eye and into the latch bracket from the back, than place the washer over the pin and install the cotter key. (The cotter key was slightly bent but reusable after straightening). Hint don't put the plastic inner door back until you have completed the pin install, just in case you have many dropped parts like I did. I reused the push pins but will replace them when I buy some new ones.

I have also checked out the Odyssey but since my machine is not used much the stock battery is still going strong.🙂

You have a nice machine but if I read the spec sheet right it comes with a 650W charging system which limits the amount of amps or watts you can draw. 650W/12volts = 54 amps which is only available above 4000 RPM. You have to take off the house load that keeps the machine running like: fuel pump, ignition system and ecm, dash guage, power steering, rad fan, lights etc. and it becomes obvious that there is a limited amount of amps left. You should decide what accessories you might want to run at the same time before you wire everything in and find that your stator can't keep up, especially at night. Electrical load management may allow you to get by but others have run into dead batteries and no way to start the machine out on the trail. Some have tried adding a second battery in parallel;(even an automotive sized one) although this keeps you running longer, they still have to be recharged by the stator, a plug in charger, or solar etc. Good luck with the project and I hope this info helps.🙂

If the starter no longer engages than you would want to check the solenoid and the starter. Fuse box 1 under the hood, fuse 8 if the engine does not crank and the guage does not turn on. If the ignition is not firing the plugs you can check F9 in fuse box 2 near the battery and relay 1 and 2 as well as F5. This is from the shop manual for the HD8 and HD 10 your HD5 may be different. Try stepping on the brake in any gear position and see if the starter engages? If you only start it in P or N and the brake works your switch at the gear selector may be bad?🙂

Check out the builds section there is some good info on larger tires, spring settings etc.🙂

I use synthetic line on my ATV's and it works well but is more susceptible to chafing. My neighbor uses synthetic on his 400 outlander and it breaks several times a winter but he pulls through a bit of line and reties a knot where the steel line broke as well but is harder to repair. It requires tools to remove and move the clamp etc. The machine probably has the 4500 winch on it.🙂

There isn't much viscous fluid maybe an ounce so it would get mixed in with the other fluid. The shims can be bought from the dealer and may come with the new kit. Check out the defender builds section for more info on front lockers I went with the SATV pinlocker.

Hard to say over the internet, did you check the fluid in the front diff? There seem to be a number of units that require a gear lash adjustment with the use of shims. The visco lok is a very simple enclosed part that contains a viscous fluid so if the fluid leaked out it would no longer work and would need to be replaced. It requires a full turn of the axle to activate more power to the non slipping wheel but is never fully locked in like a pin locker.🙂

The F8 fuse provides power to the ignition switch as a stand alone and the ignition switch turns on the ECM. Check and see if you have power at the ECM while the fuse is still good, the ECM appears to be the only item drawing power through the ignition switch, I hope its not bad. I am not sure how you would test the ECM without taking it to the dealer? The F4 fuse provides power to the instrument cluster and it appears to get power from the R2 relay. Try switching relays if they are the same and see if anything changes but keep track of the original R2 in case you need to replace it. There is also a fusible link that provides power to Fuse box 2 under the hood but if you continue to have power at the other fuses it should be fine. Your machine HD5 may be a bit different: items to check if F8 blows, defective diode D2, defective starter solenoid, or shorted to ground. Good luck.🤔

I have a 2019 and the service manual is a 2016 with a 2018 update, it contains all the info I need. I have the heater info but no updates for AC but in your case the 2021 should be just fine.🙂