Andystoy19

Pretty much straight ahead 0+/- 0.19 inches from the shop manual.🙂

The defender has two fuse boxes one near the battery, passenger side and one under the hood, pull the covers and the fuses are listed under each of the covers.🙂

When I picked up my 2019 Defender Cab the salesman at the dealer ship suggested that the doors be locked for trailering, if you have door locks I would suggest you try locking them, if not you could try loading the Defender backwards to minimize the chance of opening or damage.🙂

Attached is the trouble shooting flow diagram: Start with F9 (25 amp fuse) located under the seat near the battery. The CTS is the coolant temperature sensor and it is located on the LH side of the engine behind the cylinder.🙂

Check the belt first it may have a flat spot if it was in high range when he was stuck. Your choice of belt, the more you pay the better the belt is supposed to be for heat but the HD8 is not that powerful so the cheaper one or an aftermarket one of your choice. The rattle in the clutch area could indicate a broken spring in the primary, or broken spring or clutch buttons in the secondary. For extended belt life its always better to use Low range when stuck, less chance of smoking the contact area and burning a flat spot. Make sure you clean off any belt smear on the clutch surfaces, blow out the belt dust (primary, secondary and cover) and lightly buff the belt contact surface on the primary and the secondary with a Scotchbrite pad to remove any glaze if present, when done wipe the surface with a clean cloth or use a bit of brake clean to clean the contact area, take it easy on the new belt for 20 miles or so to break it in.🙂

I don't have the engagement for the HD9 but the HD8 and HD10 are shown at 1750 +/- 100 RPM with the stock spring.🙂

Got the seatbelt bypass as per the link and installed it, it works.🙂

If you have a volt/ohm meter check the battery first 12.5+ volts, next is F 8 (10 amp) under the passenger seat. You can switch the meter to ohms and check across the exposed terminals on the top of the fuse, you should read zero. A good fuse should light up the dash. The fuel pump, injectors, ignition sensor and ignition coil are powered by fuse F5 (10 amp) under the passenger seat. R2 is the relay that closes to provide power to F5. Once you have power to the dash with the key on you should have power to F5 if not there are several relays, switch R2 with one that is the same number to see if its a bad relay if not sure put R2 back in its original spot. If you have a blown fuse(s) you will have to check the wiring to see why the fuse blew. If F5 is blown replace it and if it blows again it may indicate a bad fuel pump?🙂

Try F 10 the 40 Amp fuse in the front panel under the hood.🙂

If the dash doesn't light up when you turn the ignition key on it could be fuse 8 (10 amp) under the passenger seat. If you want to test the starter directly: Using booster cables carefully supply current from a 12volt battery directly to the starter. Connect the black cable to engine ground and touch the red cable to the starter terminal on the starter solenoid. If the starter turns your problem is probably the solenoid or the diode. From page 102 of the manual. It may be a poor ground so check your battery and engine grounds for corrosion. FWIW🙂

Welcome to the forum: No idea on the winch but you would want to be careful where it was mounted so you don't twist the box frame. If I am not using the seat belt I fasten it behind me.🙂

Check out the builds section in the garage and you should find what you are looking for.😉

Hi welcone to the forum, its nothing new that Can Am has changed parts of the suspension, they did the same thing on the 2019 HD 10 XT Cab. I am not sure why you need a 3" lift but there is good info on the previous machines that may help you out in the builds section. Can Am doesn't change parts by building new ones all the time but they usually use parts from other models to make the changes, following the part numbers may help you out.🙂

Welcome to the forum. I don't know the answer to running with tracks but I run with 30" tires and whenever I am in the steep and deep I run in low range to put less stress on the belt. You will be past break in and you won't likely notice a change. I have a 2019 HD10 and I have done a clutch kit and a tune so I now run 91 octane no ethanol fuel. My threads are in the build section and you can read them when you have time.🙂

The switch lights up when engaged.🙂

I wouldn't think that the wider front end will be noticeable when driving. You could put spacers on the back to help widen the stance and wider tires on the stock rims, but I wouldn't unless having your buddies keep reminding you that the front is wider is a problem. The bigger problem is getting the right front axles to work with that combination. FWIW

Attached is the section from the manual, FYI 🤔

Check with Can Am I have the paper edition in 2016 and a supplement and there may be some digital ones as well but I like the book.🙂

Did you crank your shock adjuster up to the maximum height, its free and may help you with the rub issue?🙂

If you haven't read the builds section in the garage section on this thread you may find some good information to start.🙂

You can start by reading the builds section in the garage section on this site where there are several builds that explain how to get extra clearance without throwing a whole bunch of parts and money at it. My 2019 Defender XT HD 10 build runs 30" tires on stock rims with the springs cranked up and a small lift and no rub.🙂

I think the cautious answer is yes but the best place to start is Can-Am Defender Accessories | Can-Am Off-Road. You can select your machine in the options list and than compare by selecting the option that has what you want to buy. If the above site doesn't have what you want go to the parts site and compare.🙂

My 2019 HD10 XT Cab starts fine in the cold weather but I don't start it often at anything colder than -30C.🙂

My 2019 Defender HD10 Cab XT came with keyed factory door locks, perhaps there is a way to retrofit them to your machine?🙂

Not as long as your trailer is rated for about 2500 lbs, and you can balance the load of the sxs over the tires. Check the weight of your sxs and add some weight for any extras on it versus the capacity of the trailer which I imagine is single axle? If you are close to max trailer weight consider loading the sxs forward so that you put more hitch weight on the pickup.🤔