Andystoy19

I am not sure what size you need and their search function doesn't work well but if you need a 30 here is a screen shot: Specifications Part NumberFAYIX30L Group SizeMC Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)385 Cranking Amps (CA) (RC) Min @ 25 Ampminutes Amp Hours (Ah)30 Length6 9/16 inches

That's a tough one; I think you need to start with a voltmeter and check the battery voltage after sitting overnight. The voltage should be at 12.6 to 12.8 volts. If the voltage is in the range check the cranking voltage of the battery while the starter is turning the engine over it shouldn't drop below 11 volts even momentarily. Once the engine is running the charging voltage should be 14volts or higher. If the above voltages are in range you may need to have your new battery load tested as it may not be up to spec.🤔

You can walk on muskeg but there are places where it has weak spots that will support you but not a quad or a sxs.😉

I updated my build thread after I went grouse hunting 2 weeks ago and found myself stuck in the muskeg. It took 4 1/2 hrs. to pull the machine back and out of this muskeg hole. The box on my defender is 39" off the ground and in the picture it is about an inch below the water and mud so it took a lot of winching and several changes to the rescue plan. The vegetation on top is strong enough to support a quad with large tires and we had about 3/4" of ice in the holes so my brother in laws Honda was able to get through but I had to turn as I entered the area and broke through on the left side, front and rear wheels not visible at surface and 12" of icy water inside the cab on the drivers side and just a couple of inches below the air intake. The passenger side tires were on top of the surface so getting in and out of the passenger door was a real chore. #1 I have a 4500 lb. winch on front so I secured that to some trees in front and broke the winch line pulling forward. #2 I have a 4500 lb. winch on the back but couldn't reach the hitch so we attempted to secure the hook from the Honda to the hitch and pulled off my winch wires for the rear winch. #3 Finally got the rear winch line secured to the hitch so that we could double line from there to the Honda no movement. #4 We secured a spot about 5 feet off the ground on a 5" swamp spruce to change the angle of lift and direction, anchored the Honda to another spruce to prevent sliding forward while double lined. This worked allowing us to move backward an inch or 2 at a time until it stopped coming. #5 I dug out a ratchet strap and secured the swamp spruce to a bunch of other trees to prevent pulling it over and dug out my 3500 # come along. This hookup allowed us to pull back a couple more inches but it was obvious we were hung up by some stumps and roots below the surface. #6 I dug out my shovel with a long end and started digging away the ice and mud behind the machine on my knees. After finding the top of the rear tire I started digging along the suspension under the winch where I found a stump and some roots holding the suspension down. Using a swede saw and axe I was able to cut enough off the stump that we could secure the winch line from the Honda and pull the stump and some roots out. Finally using the come along with the Honda double lined we were able to raise the rear suspension up and pull the machine back. Using the chain saw we were able to clear enough swamp spruce out of the way so that I could turn the machine and back clear of the musked. The front right side of the machine was sitting on a 5" stump under the skid plate which gave us the right to left tilt and nothing but muck on the left side so no assistance from the tires to move at all. #7 Drove back to the truck with the heater on to warm my knees and hands, loaded onto the trailer and drove home. The next day I decided to install my rear rhino 2.0 axles and 1 Demon front axle, the second arrived a couple of days later and has been installed as well. I have a tether to the rear hitch secured in the box and the front is secured to the bumper so reaching down in the muck is not required. The winch line is about 10 ft shorter and has been respliced. I carry a sheave for double lining and plenty of rope and winch cable to reach close to 200'. The box of emergency spares has been cleaned and repacked with a 4000lb. come along that can be double lined and we should be ready to go again next week. We are both 75 and this beats sitting at home watching the talking heads on TV. Enjoy the ride.

To replace the rear axles jack up the rear of the machine, remove both wheels using the 17mm socket. Remove the top and bottom caliper bolts 15mm, remove and support the caliper. remove the cutter pin and remove the axle nut 30 mm, remove the top bolt of the knuckle and the two shorter bolts at the bottom (all 15mm). Now you can remove the disc brake bracket if it will come, I struggled with mine as the spline shaft would not release from the brake bracket. Once you have the nut off the spline spray the spline area with something (like befree) to help cut the rust and sealant on the spline. I had to use a puller to push the knuckle off the spline on each axle. Clean up and prepare to install the new axles. Coat the inner spline liberally with grease, alighn the axle as straight as possible to the differential, rotate a bit to align with the inner spline and a solid shove should snap the keeper into place. Prior to installing the axle use a small wire brush to clean the spline area on the knuckle. Put a coating of blue lock tite on the bearing area and insert the outboard spline through the knuckle, insert the upper and two lower bolts, install the disc brake with new nut and washer, torque to 184 ft/lbs. line up the hole for the new cotter key and install. Install the caliper and tighten (with a drop of lock tite) on all the 15mm bolts. Install the wheel and torque the 17mm nuts to 74 ft/lbs. It took me about 1 1/2 hrs per side you may do it much quicker. Well I finally installed the rear axles Rhino 2.0 AX 7-67-R-0DT001 and they installed and seemed to fit as well as the OEM did. On the bathroom digital scale they are the same weight as OEM (13 lbs) and the stock axle is 25mm diameter vs 26+mm on the rhino 2.0 so not much visual difference as far as axle OD or CV size, the only difference may be in the metallurgy and not much difference in rotating mass. I drove around a bit and everything seems normal.🤔

After all this time has passed I finally got someone in sales at Demon to look at ordering me a custon set of HD front axles and to my surprise the reply was we have the HD axles in stock for your 2019 Defender HD10 Cab Xt but they are not listed under the 2019 you have to order them for the 2020 and they will fit. Okay so I ordered a set: PAXL 3085 HD front right and PAXL 3086 HD front left. I installed the front axles as previously described and they slipped right in. After a short drive they seem to work and fit as well as the OEM ones so my initial impression is as follows: The OEM axle diameter is 24mm and the HD is 27mm and on the digital bathroom scale OEM is 10 lbs. and HD is 14 lbs. Not only is the shaft larger but the boots that house the CV's are much larger. Also an additional 4 lbs. per side of rotating mass. Larger and heavier for sure. Install hint is make sure the inner spline is in the seal area and the shaft is as straight as possible so that a hard push on the outer axle will seat the clip in the differential correctly. I hope that the new part numbers help anyone waiting for the HD front axles that never seemed to be in stock because nobody bothered to change the fitment numbers for the 2019???? Unfortunately my photo of the side by side comparison of HD vs stock disappeared. Demon is a canadian site located in Ontario but Canadians need to be aware that the pricing on this site is in $US so although they are priced at $205 each with free shipping and no customs cost you are paying for the axle at the $US exchange rate.🤑

I have one on my HD10 XT Cab and it works fine, I would call EPI and see what they suggest.😉

If you suspect you are short of fuel/no fuel you can spray a bit of starting fluid (or gasoline) into the air cleaner while you are turning over the engine and see if it fires if it does your next step will be to check the fuel pump. You can hear the fuel pump run when you first turn the key on and it may stop when it reaches output pressure. There is a shrader valve on the fuel system (looks like a valve stem) that you can unscrew the cover and carefully depress the center to see if it has pressure if yes the next step is to put a guage on and see if it reaches 51 psi, if not you may need to replace the pump or at least pull it from the tank to make sure its the fuel strainer is not plugged. Before you get too deep you can hold the pedal to the floor for a few seconds while cranking the engine and see if it fires (this should help clear any excess fuel from the cylinders), release the pedal and continue cranking to see if it starts? The fuse to the fuel pump is F5 (10 amp) and relay R1 in fuse box 1 next to the battery under the passenger seat. If you need a fuel pump you can try https://www.highflowfuel.com/catalog/fuel-pumps/ for a replacement if you wish. As far as water in the gasoline if you have been using ethanol gasoline and the sxs has sat for longer perionds the fuel may have absorbed enough moisture from the air to cause phase separation and free water. This is very corrosive so it would need to be drained. You might try to remove the fuel tank cover and try starting the engine normally just in case the tank vent is plugged and you have a vacuum in the fuel tank, you might hear a hiss when you unscrew the cap. The vent is located on top of the fuel tank next to the connector for the fuel pump and acts as a vent and air intake depending on the fuel temp etc. This is just my SWAG if you feel its too complex than you may need a trip to the dealer.

Try checking fuse F7 10 amp its supposed to feed the auxilliary and illumination.🤔

It took awhile but here are the pics: 226 mi/362 k, 98.8 hours, less than I would have guessed. The spyder webs are real.🙄

I am not sure where your HD8 is parked but it may be that some of your resident rodents have filled the air box with nesting material. If you have a screen on the intake before the air box you may be fine but worth checking.🙂

Jmo but you may have poor fuel in the tank that has lost most of its light ends, best option drain the fuel and refill with fresh and add some gasoline fuel cleaner to the fresh fuel to try and clean up any sludge you may have in the filter and fuel lines etc.🤔

My 2019 HD10 XT Cab may have less than yours, I will update when I get back to the lake to check it. I use mine for pulling the dock and lift and a couple of trips in the fall for grouse hunting, although it has been set up for the deeper stuff (muskeg) if we decide to go cruising for elk or moose. We aren't getting any younger so minimum mileage.😉

The manual shows two spring clips at the top (one towards each side) of the guage package that you have to release and it should tilt forward so that you can remove it in one piece. Not sure what tool would work best but something slim so that you don't gouge the plastic. Good luck.🤔

They were not screwed in properly to begin with?🤔