Andystoy19

Canam removable winch kit 715001652, comes with the mounting bracket, the electrical wiring to the winch motor, the electrical connector with pig tails and the bracket that holds the connector to the frame as well as the pin to secure the bracket to the receiver. The Runva 4500 XP comes with the control switch, wiring and everything that connects the winch to the battery and the winch motor to the bracket. My winch was purchased from Canada Winch. The control on this unit is more like a shop winch and does not require the wiring to the dash or the solenoid that is more common with ATV winches. The wiring consists of a pair of wires (shorter ones to the battery) and longer ones to the back of the vehicle. Bolt the winch to the bracket with supplied bolts, I had to cut a bit of the winch bracket to allow the motor to fit. Install the electrical leads to the motor. Decide which side you want the electrical bracket that holds electrical connector to fit, I switched the bracket to the right side so this required drilling two holes, end result a couple more inches of wire. The winch control sits in the folded down center back rest when required and out of the way and hidden when folded back up. I ran both pairs of wires through a nylon braid to keep the pairs together and make it easy to tie wrap them. The rear pair of wires runs through an existing hole in the cab to the engine compartment along the brake line to the rear. These two wires are bolted to the pig tails from the winch connector near the rear. Check rotation of the winch prior to taping or heat shrinking the connection of the wire pair. Cable tie the rear pair to the brake line to keep them secure. The winch comes with a 100 Amp fusible link which I used since the winch is connected directly to the battery.(only downside) Two winches, very simple install and no removal of tunnel or dash only remove and reinstall the battery cover, quick and clean. I am not set up with the option to use this winch in the front which would require the use of the Canam wiring kit. The XT comes with the factory installed front 4500 Superwinch. Both winches have been respooled to synthetic rope. To install the rear winch slide the winch bracket into the rear receiver, install the retaining pin and connect the electrical motor connector, reverse the procedure to remove and store the winch. (2-3 minute process) I can remove and install a regular tow hitch if desired but can not tow and run the winch at the same time since they use the same receiver. When installed the rear winch bracket sticks out behind the rear wheels which could result in hanging the rear end up in steep and deeply rutted trails but will work well in the muskeg or when required to hang a big game animal etc? FYI, too much time and money.

Here is the picture showing the mod.

Finally figured out how to add pics????

I bought the wide ones they offer the most protection regardless of tire size, the only downside is they stick out a bit more so the chance of scrapping against something or snagging one are a bit greater.

The battery in the 2019 Defender XT Cab is 30 amp vs other models that come with the 20 amp battery. I do not plan on installing a larger battery as some have done but I have been carrying a lithium boost kit since 2013 when my 1000 Outlander XT came as electric start only. I recommend a boost pack that is 16,000 mah or larger, Costco in Canada carries a boostme pack at 18,000 mah that is on sale until June 2nd. So far I have not had to use this pack for boosting my quad or sled but it comes in handy for lawn mower batteries, electric start light plant etc. and can even boost a vehicle if necessary. I will have 3 boost packs: one for the sled, one for the sxs and one for my pontoon boat. We did have to boost a sxs that broke through the ice last fall and got stuck in the muskeg, he killed the battery and couldn't start the sxs. Most boost packs have multiple connectors so that you can recharge your phone or use the light in an emergency; if your vehicle dies at night. If you buy one make sure you read the instructions as the boost process is not as intuitive as simply attaching the cables and you need to give them a recharge every 3-6 months.

I don't carry a spare, even though we may be 30 miles away from the truck in the foothills, I do carry an airpump and had to use it once to help a friend out, we have also had one flat that required a trip back to the truck. I do carry a portable air compressor. If you think you need a spare go with the 11", you will have the correct tire for the back and no problem steering unless you have a lock up type of front end.

This is a single door machine sometimes referred to as a 3 up. Stock tires are 27x9x14 front and 29x11x14 rear, MAXXIS Bighorn 2.0 tires. Tires were inflated to 16.5 psi front and 21.5 psi rear and clearance at the front was 12 1/2" and rear was 13 1/2". Deflated the front tires to 10.5 psi and rear to 12 psi. and front clearance stayed the same and the rear dropped to 12 1/4". Stock springs were set at the softest setting front and back. Air pressure on the stock tires especially the rear tires has a big effect on the ride height or clearance of the machine. The dry weight of this machine is listed at 1844 lbs. with 47/53 front to rear without options. Adjust spring setting front and back to the stiffest position, roughly 0.75" movement on the adjusting collar and I got an increase in clearance of 3/4" at the rear and the front so roughly a 1:1 increase in clearance, front at 13 1/4" and rear at 13". You can use this measurement to estimate your increase in lift if you decide to use the spring lift method which is a collar installed on top of your bottom adjusting collar. The increase in lift may not stay at 1:1 when you increase the size of your spacer because the springs are progressive (become stiffer when compressed) and you are decreasing the amount of travel that the shock assembly was built with by the amount of spacer you installed. Battle Armour 2" chassis or bracket lift, the four brackets are the same so they install front or back, no problems at all with installing them. Clearance after the lift was installed increased by 1 1/2" at the front and 1 3/4" at the rear. I tried to contact Battle Armour about the discrepancy in advertised vs actual but no answer? The front brackets fit as designed with the inside tab resting on the top arm as expected. The rear bracket tends to rock side to side on the bottom bolt because the rear arm is open and the tab has nothing to rest on. I questioned this as well but no answer from BA? I will modifiy the rear brackets by adding a tab on top to restrict the rocking motion after a few rides. The brackets measure 1" center to center at the bolts. The bolts were torqued as per instruction to 45 ft. lbs. 30" Cryptid tire install, the front tires are 30x10x14 and the rear are 30x11x14 installed on the factory rims. No problems taking off the factory tires or installing the new ones, note the 11" is slightly shorter when installed than the 10" according to the tire spec. sheet . Factory front 9" tire 21 lbs. Cryptid 10" 43 lbs., factory rear 11" 28 lbs. Cryptid 11" 46 lbs. The increase in rotating mass from the tires alone is 80 lbs. The new tires are roughly twice as heavy as the originals. The 30" result in a decrease of gear ratio of roughly 11%. Decrease in HP available is 80/7 = 11.4 HP due to the higher rotating mass of the tires and a gear reduction of 11%. The CVT clutch will see this as a higher load and compensate by staying in a lower shift ratio but a clutch kit will be in order (perhaps similar to the XMR which has similar tires, I haven't researched this yet). Additionally I will be looking at an engine tune which should bring me up to 82 HP according to the programmer? The final clearance with the tires inflated to 15 psi front and 18 psi rear is 15 1/4" rear and 16 1/4" front and the springs at the stiffest setting. The defender has a 1" higher lift in front and it looks aggressive. All these measurements are taken with the cab empty but all options mounted. I have not found any tire rubbing front or back at this point and no

While installing my Kolpin gun grips under the center seat similar to the lone star build I was using the tailgate as a work platform. When I was cleaning the tailgate off I discovered that the rear outer edge of the tailgate has a tape measure embossed in the black PVC. It is marked off in 1/2" and 1" increments for a total of 52". Kinda neat and hadn't seen it mentioned anywhere? FYI

Just finished my Kolpin gun holder install #715001421 in the same place under the center seat using a different method. I cut a piece of 0.50 aluminum 3" x 9 1/8", this fits across the bottom square tubing on the seat at the top when the seat is up, I used the Kolpin brackets to mark the holes 4 for each grip on the aluminum and drilled all 8 holes with a 1/8" bit. I used the template to mark the outside 2 holes on each side where the aluminum will be screwed to the square tubing. The inside 4 holes I used a 1/4" x 1 1/4" bolt to bolt the holders to the aluminum. Before attempting to mount the assembly to the square tubing I predrilled the 4, 1/8" holes (2) per side and secured the whole thing to the square tubing using 4, #10 x 1 1/2" self tapping screws. I started each of the screws into the holes to make the install easier prior to trying to mount the assembly. The self tapping screws were run in and tightened with a 5/16" wrench, no trimming required. My kit had big plastic bobby pins that lock the grip into a fixed angle, I mounted mine one click out from TDC. I would attach a picture but don't know how to do that? FYI

You might have to ask your dealer, I looked at my 2019 and the wiring from the winch heads up towards the front fuse box. I didn't raise the machine to see if it is visible from underneath but I suspect it may be visible when you remove the front hood and the side plastics? I will be adding a rear winch to my machine and it looks like there may be just enough room for the solenoid in front of the starter solenoid next to battery on the floor? Haven't measured that area to confirm yet? FYI

Side mirrors #715002459: each mirror comes with 2 bracket adapters that allow the mirror to be installed on the left or right of the cab. Choose the correct one and secure it to the mirror with 2 short allen screws. The cab model doors have two torx bolts in the right location to bolt on the mirror. Remove one of the torx screw and attach the mirror bracket with the allen screw supplied in the kit, finger tight. Remove the second torx screw and secure the mirror bracket with the second allen screw finger tight, align the bracket and mirror into final position and tighten the two allen bolts. Loosen the three tiny allen screws on the back of the mirror and do your final mirror alignment than tighten to keep the mirror from moving, remove the film from the glass. There is no measuring, drilling or removal of the inner door liner required, none of which is covered in the online instructions which need to be updated for the cab model. FYI

I have no problem or needed to replace the stock brakes on two outlanders but I wash the area at the top of the caliper (after every mud ride) to make sure nothing is jammed in the area that will prevent the caliper from retracting. The noise you heard after shutting the engine off was probably the fan, it is not unusual for the fan to come on after engine shut down or sometimes it is running when you shut the engine off. I try to idle the engine for a bit after a ride when it is hot outside to allow the fan to cycle before shut off. FYI

Just received my 2016 Shop Manual Defender series HD8 and HD10 and 2018 Shop Manual Supplement for the Defender Series. There is no mention of checking or adjusting the belt for deflection but does say on Page 17 of the Shop Manual that the belt should be replaced when it measures less than 1.445" (36.7mm) across the area of the first cord. Note this measurement is not at the top of the belt but lower down where you see the first cord exposed. My belt for reference, the secondary sheave metal surface is just below the bottom of the top cogs. The belt deflection appears correct for a new belt. This is a tad higher than the initial recommendation was for the mountain sleds. I do not see the same mechanism for belt adjustment as the secondary has on the mountain sleds. For now I will accept that there is no belt deflection adjustment mechanism unless someone else knows of one or I find it on line??? FYI

Page 97 of the operator's guide says that you should not tow this vehicle because serious damage can occur to the drive system. This sounds like an all inclusive statement because someone might decide to tow it behind a vehicle down the road. If you tow at low speeds behind another ATV/UTV pay attention when you start; if you feel something dragging you may have to remove the drive belt (we do when towing a skidoo). Make sure your brakes are still functioning.

I have a new 2019 Defender XT Cab HD10, which jumps a bit on initial engagement at low throttle position (less than 10 miles, 16km on it so far). I came off of several outlander XTs the latest was a 1000 and they react in a similar fashion. The CVT system on the primary clutch is controlled by a spring and flyweights that create centrifugal force. The initial engagement is about 1800 RPM so as the RPM increases the flyweights on the clutch arms overcome the spring resistance and allow the primary to close on the belt, grabbing the belt and initiating movement. These vehicles are heavy, mine is close to 2000 lbs. The outlander was 800 lbs. If you are at a throttle position that is close to engagement the clutch closes and pulls down the engine RPM causing the spring to release the clutch and the next instant the RPM increases and the clutch closes again causing the vehicle to jump, jerk, lurch forward and so on. Solution try to stay above engagement RPM to reduce or eliminate this condition. In the skidoo mountain sled world the CVT is similar but calibrated for much higher HP and less torque because the two stroke engine (850 cc and 165 HP at 7800 RPM), clutch engagement is about 3800 RPM. I do realize that the turbo sxs are similar HP, much more torque and much heavier than sleds. In the skidoo world the first thing I do with a new machine is remove the belt and wash it with soap and water to remove any particles, powder etc. rinse and dry. I use a Scotchbrite pad to scuff the sides of the belt slightly and do the same to both surfaces of the primary and secondary clutch which sometimes have over spray from the factory of corrosion inhibitor. Wipe the sheave areas with a clean shop cloth and some guys use a bit of brake clean. Reinstall the belt and check deflection, the belt stretches (wears on the sides) a bit in the first 100m (160 km) and requires adjustment on the secondary clutch to remain in the correct spot on the primary for proper low speed engagement. The secondary contains a cam that can be adjusted to open or close the secondary to maintain proper belt deflection. As the belt wears it becomes skinnier, longer resulting in the belt engaging higher on the primary resulting in accelerated wear because this changes the effective gear ratio at engagement. Belt life is much shorter on these sleds than the expected life on sxs etc. Interesting side note the Gates CF belt is the same for my sled as well as the defender? That would indicate that the center to center distance is similar but the primary clutch and calibration is different. I haven't received my shop manual yet but should have it by the end of the week, so I will read up on recommended belt deflection etc. and update if there is some interesting information. In the operator's guide page 101 and 102 they recommend inspecting the belt, cleaning the sheaves and inspecting the levers and rollers on the drive pulley (primary clutch) after 100 hrs.but there is very limited info on what to look for (page 123) and page 95? Yes I do read the complete operators guide on any new toy before using it. I will remove the CVT cover and perform the belt and sheave cleaning, check the belt deflection and adjust if necessary and possible? I suspect that Canam do not dwell on belt maintenance on the Defender because they market it as maintenance free for the first year. They are usually operated at lower speeds resulting in lower belt temperatures but machines that are turbo'd and are rock crawlers or swamp buggies with large tires will exhibit higher belt failures. FYI.

2019 Defender XT Cab HD10 Silver with rock sliders, fender flares, removable winch mounting kit, higher front receiver hitch, bed tool box, deluxe headache rack, dual side mirrors, gear grips by kolpin and soon to have battle armour 2" suspension lift and 30x11x14 rear and 30x10x14 front tires as well as a separate removable 4500 # rear winch.🙄