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Defender Transmission


Yellowpineadam
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New 2019 Defender.  This is my first one and have some questions:

 

1. when we put it into gear it clunks into gear after slight acceleration. Normal?

 

2.  Sometimes it stutters on acceleration then display says “low” requiring to go into low.  Normal?

 

 

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The defender has a belt drive CVT and transmission. When you put it into gear and start to accelerate the first thing that happens is the clutch closes on the belt and initiates forward movement. The driven pulley has a helix which controls the rate of shift, this part has some movement built into it and is usually what causes the clunk you are hearing. Completely normal.

Your second question relates to the programming of the ECM. The defender has a function (belt saver)that monitors "belt slippage". If this function detects excess belt slippage on acceleration it lights up the message on your display. 

All belt drive CVT have some belt slippage designed into them to prevent a big lurch on initial engagement. The problem is how much is normal. Have you increased your tire size, or installed different tires, if yes this will likely increase the chance of the light coming on. It takes some time for a new belt to break in and this may reduce the message coming on.

If you are in soft, deep rutted terrain or pulling a heavy load always start out in low range. If litely loaded and on hard pack ground you should be able to start out in Hi without illumination. Please read your operators manual.:classic_smile:

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3 hours ago, Andystoy19 said:

The defender has a belt drive CVT and transmission. When you put it into gear and start to accelerate the first thing that happens is the clutch closes on the belt and initiates forward movement. The driven pulley has a helix which controls the rate of shift, this part has some movement built into it and is usually what causes the clunk you are hearing. Completely normal.

Your second question relates to the programming of the ECM. The defender has a function (belt saver)that monitors "belt slippage". If this function detects excess belt slippage on acceleration it lights up the message on your display. 

All belt drive CVT have some belt slippage designed into them to prevent a big lurch on initial engagement. The problem is how much is normal. Have you increased your tire size, or installed different tires, if yes this will likely increase the chance of the light coming on. It takes some time for a new belt to break in and this may reduce the message coming on.

If you are in soft, deep rutted terrain or pulling a heavy load always start out in low range. If litely loaded and on hard pack ground you should be able to start out in Hi without illumination. Please read your operators manual.:classic_smile:

WOW!  

 

One of the most helpful, "to the point", friendliest and well written responses I have read!   Kudos to you Andystoy19!

Edited by StarvinPilgrim
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  • 9 months later...

Fixing to buy a defender xmr. The bulid date on it is 7/2018, i was wondering if it would have the reverse chain or not? I know the 19 models do and didn't know if this would be considered a 19

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On 7/16/2019 at 1:22 PM, StarvinPilgrim said:

WOW!  

 

One of the most helpful, "to the point", friendliest and well written responses I have read!   Kudos to you Andystoy19!

Andy and Toolboy both have great responses. I believe they both have shop manuals. One thing to note on the belt. A guy should really take care in seasoning the belt properly.  Ride easy.... yet hard... after a few good rides on the belt ( heated and cooled, rode fast and slow...) replace it with another and keep the belt you just seasoned in the rig as a spare. Because if you think about it. When you burn a belt down.... where you gonna be? In a booger of a spot.... A new belt is NOT going to help... BUT.... That seasoned belt??? She's ready to go... HAVE FUN!!!

These machines are driven/powered like snowmobile. And seasoning belts are required for extended lifespan. Although they are easier to replace in a snowmobile. 

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My shop manual covers 2016 Defender Series HD8 and HD10 engines with electric differential lock and without. The 2018 Defender Series Supplemental neither the schematic nor repair procedures show or reference a reverse chain. I know that the XMR does not come with a locking rear differential option and that the gear box is different, it has a lower low and can be bought with the Smart Lok front differential since 2019?

There may be a different shop manual for the XMR series that would be worth checking? My manuals do not mention the XMR anywhere?🤔

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I think Polaris is the only brand with a reverse chain.  

As a 2018 Xmr owner, I would recommend a 19' or newer Xmr.  The ability to unlock the rear end is huge I've noticed.  Not so much a big deal while driving off road, but if you ever want to use it on black top its kind of a nuisance.  Just my honest opinion.

Other than not being able to unlock the rear end, the Xmr is a great machine.  Has gotten me through everything I've aimed it at.

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1 hour ago, RossO said:

I think Polaris is the only brand with a reverse chain.  

As a 2018 Xmr owner, I would recommend a 19' or newer Xmr.  The ability to unlock the rear end is huge I've noticed.  Not so much a big deal while driving off road, but if you ever want to use it on black top its kind of a nuisance.  Just my honest opinion.

Other than not being able to unlock the rear end, the Xmr is a great machine.  Has gotten me through everything I've aimed it at.

I own a 19 XT cab HD10.  While it doesnt come with the MEGA SWAMPER tire package and lift. It allowed me to add my own lift and 32" DOT tires. A better option for me. But as far as getting me there? I've been in 'Bear' where only tracks had been. On tires... I thought about tracking him, BUT WHY??? BEEN VERY IMPRESSED with the performance. 

15887063215436238486643760701438.jpg

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On 5/3/2020 at 9:33 AM, A hunt 2 remember said:

Andy and Toolboy both have great responses. I believe they both have shop manuals. One thing to note on the belt. A guy should really take care in seasoning the belt properly.  Ride easy.... yet hard... after a few good rides on the belt ( heated and cooled, rode fast and slow...) replace it with another and keep the belt you just seasoned in the rig as a spare. Because if you think about it. When you burn a belt down.... where you gonna be? In a booger of a spot.... A new belt is NOT going to help... BUT.... That seasoned belt??? She's ready to go... HAVE FUN!!!

These machines are driven/powered like snowmobile. And seasoning belts are required for extended lifespan. Although they are easier to replace in a snowmobile. 

Great tip about seasoning belts you posted I’ve been doing this with sled belts for years. 

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Greetings all. I have a 2019 defender xmr camo. I just put a 3 inch lift via spring pucks then set preload to softest setting and then added 33 inch system3 mud tires on 18 inch rims. I hear some people remove the sway bar to get better articulation. I plan to go back and forth from these tires to my  stock tires.  Do I need to do any clutch adjusting? I also use tracks in the winter. I ride all season here in Alaska. Your thoughts please. Photos to come. Oh, I can run about 20 ish mph now in low range at about 6k.

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  • 1 year later...
On 5/4/2020 at 12:16 AM, Andystoy19 said:

My shop manual covers 2016 Defender Series HD8 and HD10 engines with electric differential lock and without. The 2018 Defender Series Supplemental neither the schematic nor repair procedures show or reference a reverse chain. I know that the XMR does not come with a locking rear differential option and that the gear box is different, it has a lower low and can be bought with the Smart Lok front differential since 2019?

There may be a different shop manual for the XMR series that would be worth checking? My manuals do not mention the XMR anywhere?🤔

Does your shop manual say how to split the gearbox housing. I have punched a small piece out the housing below the right hand output shaft. Have the gearbox out and full unbolted but it will only separate 1mm.

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The gearbox housing has 11 screws M6x45, 10 screws M8x45 and 2 M8x65. Start by removing the M6 first, than the M8x45 and lastly the M8x65. Separate the two halfs by using two flat blade screwdrivers to gently pry them apart, there may be dowels (alignment pins) so go carefully so that you don't damage the gasket surface or the dowels. Make sure you keep track of  where the 2 M8x65 came out from. There should be no other items attached to the gearbox prior to trying to split it.🙂

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