A hunt 2 remember

Where did you pick up your new skids???

Right. To hell with the book. I'll be doing things as per my driving style/ conditions. Because 2000 for a first change is CRAZY!!

Hit the 1000 mile mark in only 4 months. Have I mentioned how much I LOVE MY BEAR!!!

After putting on 1000 on my 2019 Defender HD10 I see no service warning on my instrument panel. My Outlander HD10 spit out a code at 500 miles but nothing on the Defender. So.... after looking in the manual, it seems they dont call for first service is at the 2000 mile mark. Really? 2000 miles? Has anybody really gone that long before changing the original oil? Thinking I'm gonna change the oil/filter and get any shavings out of the engine. Wondering what the difference is? And why one sent the code and one did not....

Is the swap over pretty painless?

It was a GREAT TRIP!!! Headed back in later tonight. Snowing now. Finishing up some work and headed... just 5 miles up the road.....

Here is a shot after coming home. As well as a frontal shot with the rancher bumper and flares. Oh yeah, and one of the snow pack on the bumper that shows how high the snow was the night before. (Friday)

After running into a couple of tracked up Maverick's this past weekend, I'm not so sure I'm sold. While I'm pretty sure in the deep snow they would be easier on the machine, but down lower on the dry/muddy trails the tracks would be a hindrance. With that being said, I went everywhere the tracks went!! ON STOCK TIRES.... Get you some of that!! Climbed to the TOP of a radio station lookout. (Yakima, Washington area) Got some GREAT PHOTOS and had some GREAT FUN!!!! I will also add, that I had my reservations about the Defender over the Outlander. But now after owning BOTH of them.... I'm sold on my Defender!!! Outlander "FOR SALE".... 😉

Love mine!!! Was a swampy mess getting up here to the top!! Hardly any mud spray at all

THEY ROCK!!!! Sheds nearly ALL the spray from hitting the sides of the rig. Of ALL the OEM parts I've added, THESE ACTUALLY WORK and they give "Bear" a "BAD ASS" look

So I'm wondering if there is any news of the 850 amp stator in the 2020 HD10's possibly fitting the 2019??? While I think I have gotten my accessory rotation figured out so as not to drain my dual battery setup. But it sure would be nice to run with the OEM headlights on... 😉 But since my rancher OEM BULL BUMPER blocks more than half the light anyway, I just use the 2x8" LEDs mounted on the bumper and the 2x8"+1x22" LED bars on the top that in total draw just 2 extra amps than the stockers. The 8" bars on the roof are pointed at about a 40* angle off the A- pillars. The uppers are switched separately than the bumper lights so they can be shut off when following or passing oncoming traffic. Anyway..... with the heater going, the seats,wheel, and grab bar going as well as the lights and stereo...... 550??? MAXED OUT!!!! I would hate to have to use the winch....

Happy new year's to ALL!!! Hopefully 2020 is YOUR YEAR!!! I'm from the PDX area in NW ORE. I'm wondering how many others may be in my area? Others to ride with and swap building ideas..... l love the forum for ideas and all, but having someone local to ride with would be cool. Thinking about a run up to the local off road area for a new year run... STAY SAFE!!!!

I guess my question to you is, do your car windows have issues opening in the weather conditions you speak of? I have a 2019 XT Cab model and have just under 1000 miles on it. I've had NO ISSUES other than lacking power from the 550 amp stator, which has been upgraded to 850 on the 2020's. Hoping the new stator will bolt into my 2019... But for now the OEM headlights are a novelty!!! Think maybe the Can Am engineers and designers could figure out the rancher front bumper blocks nearly 50% of the light from the stock headlights. Thank goodness the 2x8" led bars mounted on the bumper blow them away at half the amperage. Then the 2x8" and 1x22" led's on the roof (pointed forward) make it dang near "high noon" any time of day....

What if we don't do FB? Url?

Hey, I've NEVER been known to do something half @$$ed.... I'm also thinking closed cell insulation between my aluminum skids and the plastic floor. Also adding a layer of DIY bedliner to the entire floor and wheel wells. Oh, and IF BRP is listening, i could use another 15 or so amps of power out of the stator..... 🤞😊🤞just sayin' My next venture is to get some GROUND CLEARANCE!!!

I didn't really notice it untul I started insulating the cab. But now that I have sealed the gaps it has nowhere to go.... Hoping the insulation on the roof will keep it from accumulating condensation. At first I thought it might be leaking through the mounting holes for the light bars. Not the case.... It was just laws of nature.... like a glass of cold liquid in a warm area.... the outside of the glass condensates. Unless you add a cozy.... Same thing here.... cold outside.... warm inside= condensation. So i just added a COZY to my roof... 😉

Wanting to add a few inches to my defender. Bought a battle armor lift but that really do do it!! Im talking lift. Someting in the 4" range... that way after adding 30" tires 5"-6" of overall height... I see both, A-arm kits and portal lifts.... are guys using the portals to switch around the gearing of the bigger tires??? Anyway, any input would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! Thanks in advance

YIKES!!! That doesnt sond good. But I would take pictures of codes each time. If it persists LEMON LAW CLAIM!!! GOOD LUCK!!!

While I love my full cab and heat.... but NOT the condensation that occurs because of it. Especially after adding some sound proofing/insulation to retain some of it... first i started across the back firewall. Sure it cut the engine noise down and may have added some heat retention. The doors unfortunately had such a gap that it allowed a draft and quite a bit of dust. Easy fix.... some foam door jamb insulation on the frame that the door seal butts into. Making a GREAT SEAL!!! Problem now is..... the condensation on the roof..... picture below DRIPPING from above... WHAT THE HECK??? Oh well, off with the headliner and another couple rolls of 1/2" foam added to the roof. Which also added a better seal around the roof at the roll bar. So now my weak links are the front cab wall and doors themselves. (As for heat loss) thinking I'm good with the doors for now, but the front wall I'd like to address. While foam isn't really an option for longevity reasons.... I'm thinking about a bedliner material applied to add some thickness between.... any ideas???

Wish I had known there was an upper junction before I ran a hot lead up top. Other than what I added was hot 100% of the time, no accessory switch needed. Nice for when I added the door switches for the dome light. Now when my doors come open the dome light comes on.... NO FUMBLING IN THE DARK!!! I also used a tranny plug for my wiring through the roof rather than running it under and through the roof gasket... VERY CLEAN INSTALL....

When I stated I got two more rolls, I meant of the 1/2" sheet goods from above. Not more of this...

Well I think this may cut SOME noise.... But I'm sure it will work for DUST/WATER coming in from around the doors as well as other areas the sheet goods don't work so well. It's pretty much the same stuff they use as a roof top gasket. Found it at my local HD... Oh, I also bought two more rolls for the roof. May even pull the door skins and do them... I mean for the price of 6 rolls? The heat retention and sound proofing it provides is WELL WORTH THAT!! IMO

AWESOME NEWS!!!

So... after purchasing a soundproofing product from the stereo shop for QUITE A BIT MORE (but hadn't used it) I ran into this thread. My first thought was something in a horse mat type of thing, BUT NOT THAT THICK!!! I found a 6'x4' floor mat at home depot that was my first attempt. It work pretty well overall, but didn't kill the engine at high RPM's. Awesome as a floor mat though!!! Kept great traction under foot even with snow being track in... (I also think the way it lays over the floor laps, it will help with dust in the summer)But after seeing the 1/2" sticky back foam, it was game on. I bought two rolls. One for below the mid bar across the back and one above. Then I doubled the lower section again with the original floor mat I used at first. But again, i think all the extra foaming will contain my heat, dampen the road/engine noise,as well as keep the cab cleaner..... as you can see in pictures (if you look close) I cut the on the lower section so the access panel can still be removed. I also did behind the battery cover. I have all three compartments for under the seats which also helps with the noise below the seats... thinking I may get some for the bottom of the roof to retain heat loss and givethe speakers some backing for some depth/tone....

So... after purchasing a soundproofing product from the stereo shop for QUITE A BIT MORE (but hadn't used it) I ran into this thread. My first thought was something in a horse mat type of thing, BUT NOT THAT THICK!!! I found a 6'x4' floor mat at home depot that was my first attempt. It work pretty well overall, but didn't kill the engine at high RPM's. Awesome as a floor mat though!!! Kept great traction under foot even with snow being track in... (I also think the way it lays over the floor laps, it will help with dust in the summer)But after seeing the 1/2" sticky back foam, it was game on. I bought two rolls. One for below the mid bar across the back and one above. Then I doubled the lower section again with the original floor mat I used at first. But again, i think all the extra foaming will contain my heat, dampen the road/engine noise,as well as keep the cab cleaner..... as you can see in pictures (if you look close) I cut the on the lower section so the access panel can still be removed. I also did behind the battery cover. I have all three compartments for under the seats which also helps with the noise below the seats... thinking I may get some for the bottom of the roof to retain heat loss and givethe speakers some backing for some depth/tone....