A hunt 2 remember

Super cool!!! And super cool of you!! Welcome to the forum.. look forward to it's progress.. The addiction is real... Joe and Bear

WELCOME!!! The addiction is real!! HAVE FUN and STAY SAFE!!! Joe and Bear

Every extended warranty I ever bought was either not used..... Or NOT COVERED!!! Always some type of reason I voided warranty.... OR THATS NOT COVERED!!! Kinda like a "lifetime" battery replacement that lasts "10 years"? I may be wrong, but my English would equate that to a "10 year warranty" If they even honor it... They balked over a window switch..... I can about imagine the BS a battery would start up....

Hence the reason I went with Gorilla. They asked what I had.... And built me a set accordingly. Had them in a week and they fit RIGHT IN!! Never a problem since...

Well.... this could actually be a DPS centering issue..... which requires a BUDS unit to recalibrate the system.... I actually bout a BUDS due to the wait for a shop.... and the fact I haven't been real impressed with the CanAm tech's..... Unless you have done a lift... new A-arms.... or just flat out hit something.... I really dont think your alignment just got off.... I'm not at home right now around my manual.... but I'm pretty sure if it is your DPS.... turn your wheels straight..... turn the rig off..... let the system shut down..... turn back on the ignition and watch your steering wheel.... Pretty sure you will see it pull to the side..... BINGO!!! DPS CALIBRATION..... By chance have you done any wiring??? Dead battery requiring a charger that sparked at hookup??? The system is pretty temperamental so anything like that could have caused the DPS to GO WACKY!!! GOOD LUCK!!!

This has probably been addressed.... But my odds would be on a FAULTY SWITCH.... That is if what I'm getting is the fact you have a switch.... but it is no longer engaging/disengaging...... BRP has been known to have GARBAGE SWITCHES!!! Usually noticed on the windows.... but others have been faulty....

I have the full size flares, but added to the fronts after going to 32x10x14.... I think the sports would be pretty much worthless...

Search wireless remote... There are a few posts on the subject... Good luck

Looking back at satv pretty sure I have the forward A-arms (fittment #2) and YES.... SATV does NOT have correct axles....(or didn't) it takes a bit of cross referencing and you soon see THE FITTMENT CHARTS SUCK!! One says YES.... While the next says NO.... But in the end.... The cab models are different than the others... even one cab to another from what I remember..... atleast you can do your research with decent wifi.... I had to do it in the eastern Oregon mountains..... lol... GOOD LUCK

Well, not sure what A-arms you were looking at, but I bought 2" forward A-arms from SuperATV and they fit perfect... But they DO NOT (or did not at the time) carry Axles for the cab models... After searching around... EVERYWHERE..... I found the AWESOME CREW @ Gorilla axles and they MADE ME A SET..... I've had NO ISSUES SINCE!! I had found fittment charts on one site saying one would fit.... while another would say NO.... It was really a CRAP SHOOT!!! But Gorilla GUARANTEED they would fit.... AND THEY DID!!! NOT CHEAP!!! But still in one piece!!! Well, several pieces.... but you get my jist... Good luck, Joe and Bear

You will find this is a COMMON ISSUE!!! Unfortunately the dealers DO NOT have AC service techs... Seems odd considering all the issues they are having with AC units... Maybe thats a sign???

Hmmm..... I guess if my local dealer supported me, and warranty was an actual thing with BRP/CanAm..... I would think about supporting them with more than my original purchase... But as it is??? I don't support my local dealer??? More of a pusher really. They all want to be your buddy, until your ADDICTED!!! Then yer just another buck.... Oil is oil/ brake fluid is brake fluid.... Not gonna spend 50% more for something I can get automotive fluids for... that do the same thing... But thats me...

Pretty sure they are...

The 2020 and newer come with them stock. Atleast on the HD10 models from what I understand

You will find MANY of us have had issues with warranty related issues.... As well as just "customer service" once the purchase has been made. In regards to the doors as well as the windshield, I added a foam door/window weatherstipping around the frames of them. Helped quite a bit. Also, the side of the door hinges are slotted so they can be adjusted in that manner. Mine happen to be back all the way on the top... and halfway on the lower hinge. (Canting the door a bit askew in a counterclockwise position as per hinge bolt positioning) also another thing to keep an eye on is the roll pin in the windshield handle itself... if it pops out of one side it will get squeaky. And if it falls out? Well, im sure you can figure out that NIGHTMARE... As for the brakes?? AFTERMARKET!!! OEM PADS SUCK!!!! Many threads here on them.. A/C..... NA here so I can only second HBK in that..... I'M GLAD I HAVE A 19'!!! LOL Seat belt? I'M TERRIBLE!!! Mine is over the backrest and clicked in... So again, NA.... Now in regards to all the switches and small stuff??? Just replace them.... more of a PITA than it's worth to even bother... I totally hear what you are saying about the fact "FOR THE PRICE" But I still love Bear!!!!!

That sounds odd. All you added was 2" pucks? That really should have changed anything there... When I added my 2" forward A-arms they gave me steering stops but said they were optional... I didn't install them and don't rub at all even with 32's... Are your shock preloads set to the highest settings? Not that I think is the problem, but mine are set to one under stiffest setting. I actually have the rears to the stiffest setting. Good luck

AWESOME!!! For future reference and your year unit... you can download a manual from BRP... Pretty sure it was like 25.00 and 20.00 in ink/toner... lol But you then have a complete shop manual for your Defender. I mean I will post what I can for anyone.... But it's always nice to have the reference...

It sounds as if your vent is plugged up. The fumes you smelled could be coming from the vent after it builds enough pressure to actually vent off the tank...(well more than normal) and those are the times you smelled them? As Andy stated, I think the vent unit would be my try... maybe even pull it and take it to an automobile parts house and see if they have any ideas about a different route to take achieving the same thing... or just try another OEM unit...

Has anyone with the issue tried leaving the fuel cap loosely tightened... say to the first click of tightening... just a thought.. Not necessarily a FIX but maybe a resolve until it can be addressed more in depth. Atleast that way you could get a decent day of riding without starving the rig...

Fleet tech? Independent? Do we have a BRP MOLE on the forum? Lol Welcome to the forum

Glad I could help... You should have a wiring terminal in the upper console to hook into. (A three lug terminal) Without looking.. I'm pretty sure that one side is switchable hot... and the other is ground. It looks as if you may even have wiring for the light on the roof harness if you have the wiper already...

Well here we are at another memorial day weekend... Bear and I just want to wish you ALL a fun and safe weekend!!! Drink RESPONSIBLY, and BEWARE OF THOSE THAT ARE NOT....... While I don't know any of you personally, I appreciate and enjoy your inputs here. Last but NOT LEAST!!!! I would like to say to any of you that served in the corps.... THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!!!! Joe & Bear

Yes sir. I suggest laying a rag or paper towels on the skids below the cover BEFORE you take it off. Just keeps things tidy. That thread is pretty clear. But just ask if you need more?

Okay okay..... hold on... see if I have one.... not really sure that shows much about placement. I'll take a picture... But as for placement? I would pull the liner.... find the two studs in the center of roof and install a couple screws in the lugs.... then take the liner and put it back in place without screwing back in.... push up on liner to locate said screws.... slice liner with small knife... PRESTO!!!! Then cut anothe small hole for the wires to pass through.... kinda hard to get exact... but the holes are say 13.5" from the front console.... Hope that helps...

As for the light? I wired it so they can be shut off to coming on with door by adding an extra mini switch to the light itself... I don't have a 3d printer so I used hot glue to build my extension. It works great!!! As for the extra posts on the roof? I believe they are for the OEM speaker mounts... but YES, I used them to hold up my liner after mounting my speakers directly to the liner itself... you can see the screw/washer just in front of the speaker in the picture...