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Hi all, I am a seasoned mechanic working for a deer lease maintaining equipment. At the lease we have 2 Polaris ranger 800, 1 Ranger Crew 800, 4 Polaris sportsman's (one of those is an MV7). Being tired of replacing wheel bearings, ball joints, suspension bushings, tie rod ends, and axles I pushed for a change. We now have 1 2018 CanAm Defender Texas addition (almost 2 years old), and 2 2019 Defenders (1 year old and 1 month old). The 1 year old gets very little use and has only 200 hours. It has developed a slip and a squeal on normal acceleration from a stop. after consulting my dealer I replaced the belt and it stopped slipping and quit making noise. After 2 weeks of use (maybe 3 hours) it has begun slipping and squealing again. I saw no unusual problems with either clutch when I replaced the belt. Any suggestions?

 


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Not much to go on but I suspect that you are using Hi range even in soft or uneven conditions, this can contribute to belt slip, premature wear and squeal.

If you are on flat ground and the squeal still happens I would take a close look at the primary spring to see if it is not broken and at the same time blow out and clean both the belt surface area and the internals from belt dust. If the primary looks fine have a look at the secondary spring for breakage or a broken button? Any chance you got water into the belt case? Good luck with the diagnosis but 3 hrs. on a new belt is definitely not acceptable.🙂

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Posted

After reading another post you replied to, you said something about seasoning a belt. What are you referring to? Also I can't vouch for how the other guy's are driving this unit but I am pretty sure they don't use low range unless they are off road and under 15 mph. 


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Posted

Talk to the clutch guys at EPI Performance in Baxter, MN. I changed out my primary and secondary springs and it really changed the engagement of the belt. Less take up on initial acceleration. Cost less than $60.

 

I have 30"x10" QBT 846 tires and no real power mods and I was recommended to go with the CAPS2/QRS2 springs.


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Thanks for the reply. I will be heading out to the lease in a little while and will inspect clutch surfaces and springs for defects, If I don't find anything I will call EPI.  As long as I have your attention, do you know anything about "seasoning" a belt? 

 


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Just guessing but I’d say he is talking about putting some light miles on the spare belt before you need it. Belts need to be slowly broken in for 20 miles or so when new atleast that’s what I’ve always been told.
Take it easy on new belts. 
most times when your belt blows it’s in the worst of places usually not possible to put on BRAND NEW belt and take it easy for the 20 miles. If you break in that new belt first then take it off and keep in a clean dry storage till you need it when you change it on the trail it will already be broken in and ready to get you out  

you could try to soak in Montreal steak spice to season but I don’t think that will help your situation.  

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Posted

I was wondering if Montreal or Chicago was needed Thanks for the reply.

 


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Posted

Are you using a BRP belt or after market? Some after-market belt may not fit as well  as the OEM.  To season a belt, run the machine for 20 or so miles with slow starts and vary the speed don't Hammer it during the break-in. Check that the sheave's are clean and no grooves in them. If dirty clean with soap and water  and  light scrubbing with a Scotch-brite pad.   


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 Yes, seasoning may be an issue you are having. To season the belt... Take it easy on it for the first few rides... Easy on the acceleration and fluctuate speeds up an down.. after a bit.. give it a few quick acceleration jumps and then let it cool... as far as the 20 mile thing.... more is better... and more cycles makes a better seasoning... One other thing that can be happening is that your clutch is getting a glaze on it from sitting... if that seems to be the case, try a scotchbrite pad or some light steel wool to knock off that glazing... One other thing you can try is soaping your belt. (Just take a bar of soap and rub it on the sides of yer belt.... this is an old mechanics trick to get fan belts from SQUEALING!!! May help out here too.... 

 


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Most belt manufacturers recommend that new belts are broken in before you put them through heavy use. They recommend running the vehicle through different RPM's under light load conditions to allow the belt to warm up slowly, stretch and adhere to the taper of the clutch faces of your machine. If you put a new belt on and you are in a bog or pulling a load the belt will slip more under full power and may glaze on the sides because of excessive heat from slipping resulting in a belt with a lower coefficient of friction and a tendency to slip more at any load.

If you are going to take the belt guard off, take the belt off and have a close look at it to see if it is glazed or has been burnt (smoked) by applying power in a near stuck situation in high range. It will have circular burn marks on the edges and possible delamination of the top of the belt. If the edges of the belt have changed color it may have been over heated. Check the sheaves for black streaks of rubber indicating slippage and clean this off by using a scotch brite pad and air or water and soap to clean both sheave faces. You can use the scotch brite pad to clean both sides of the belt as well and wash it in hot soapy water to remove belt dust etc. air dry prior to installing again paying attention to the directional arrow on the belt. If the belt looks normal upon inspection than a closer inspection of the primary clutch spring, fingers (the fingers must be free to move on their pivots) if one or more are stuck or sticky it will affect how the clutch grabs the belt on engagement. The black rubber streaks will usually be on the primary sheave next to the shaft indicating slippage upon engagement, little streaks are normal a lot indicates major slipping? Check your belt guard seal to make sure it isn't kinked or broken allowing water to enter the belt guard.

The suggestion to break in a new belt and take it off and store for a spare is a good one. I wash all new belts with soap and water and use a scotch brite pad on the sides to make sure nothing is sticking to the new belt from the factory. Rinse the belt completely before air drying. If you think this is too much housekeeping thats fine but the belt is the most important part of the power train in my opinion. Let us know what you find.

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Posted (edited)

Before taking everything apart take the machine for a short drive and watch your tach, engagement should be about 1750 RPM +/- on a stock machine. If you are close than the chance you have a mechanical problem with the primary is less. If the belt squeal is at engagement you will likely find a problem with the primary clutch gripping the belt. The belt should be near the top ofthe secondary sheave at rest, if it is sagging or drooping and not at the top of the secondary than you most likely have a problem with the secondary spring or clutch buttons. If you find water in the belt guard you will need to dry out and clean the parts before deciding to reinstall the original belt or replace?🙂

Edited by Andystoy19
wording
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Ok I went tp the lease this morning and pulled the cover. I used compressed air to blow out the dust (I neglected to do this when replacing the original belt) I got a lot of dust. No  signs of glazing on the belt or clutch sheave's. with the cover off I gave it a quick test drive, it still slips and squeals.  I came home to order the primary clutch removal tool as my next step was to check the buttons, bearing and spring.. When I return I will remove the belt and scotch brite the sheaves before I remove the clutches for inspection. Today with the cover off and engine running in park, I had chirping from the driven clutch this noise stops if  I spray brake clean on the belt surface. This noise will also  go away if I stop the driven clutch with my boot or if I put the transmission in gear. 


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Posted

Found the problem! Secondary clutch rollers broken, parts will be here in the am tomorrow. Now I need to go have a heart to heart with the driver and explain why you cant WFO the vehicle from a dead stop with a full load of passengers in high range!!! Thanks to all that posted you are the best!!!

 


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Thanks for getting back to us, good to hear you found the problem. ☺️


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I got my parts today and installed them. I don't know if you have ever split the driven clutch but they have 2 bolts for the rollers that you have to install (NEW) then after installing them you drill a hole through the threaded part of the bolt and install a tiny roll pin (like on the front driveshaft yoke). If you don't know about them before you remove the bolts you will strip the torx bit hole and then you have a real problem. I got lucky and only striped one torx hole. Then I found the roll pins. After all that drama the can-am runs great, no noise, no slip. Thanks again for y'alls imput. Or as we say in Texas "THANKEE" !

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