A hunt 2 remember

I TOTALLY went through this!!! Everyone makes an axle for EVERY OTHER rig EXCEPT an HD10 CAB..... What the freak??? Hence the reason I bit the bullet and bought the Gorillas. Lifetime warranty vs. CV joint every 1500 miles or so.... dosen't take long to add up..... Heck.... I'd give you my left but I keep it incase something does happen to this GORILLA AXLE.... while in transit.... Good luck with your decision... I know how it is to BE DOWN....

I guess my first thought is... I only see 12" wheel size... Does your rig NOT have 14" rims?

Im still running a stock dif at this time. But have a blown OEM dif that needs fixed/replaced...

Sorry man... I guess thats another reason to keep Bear.... I already have the manual... 😉 Hoped that would help...

GREAT POINT!!! So... total drives... 2wd... 4wd limited slip all 4 with OEM 4x actuator.... rear locked via OEM locker switch.... Front locked via SATV locker switch.... Sound about right??? Got bear back yesterday... now to open up the front dif and see whats up.... but I think a locker is in his future...

Cover is a bit larger than 2" here is a shot of Bear's filter cover. Just forward of the filler.... behind the wiring.

Here are the shop manual pages. Hope this helps...

Okay Andy, Do you think a guy could just splice in the actuator switch to the OEM 4x4 switch? Saving a switch space? My dash already looks like a small commuter plane cabin. 😉 Cant think the transfer case actuator would care... Seems my dif is jacked up so as long as the gears are good the locker dif should fix bear back to 110% thinking the bigger tires blew a visco DISK!!! Well, that and DEEP WET SNOW probably didn't help. ALWAYS SOMETHING...

I believe my 2019 stock wheels were 5+2 in the front.... (7") and 7+2 in the rear (9") i can look tomorrow but pretty sure that was stock. But if your on 31's already I'd stay with that...

Not sure why or how.... but I ended up having to change my layout... back to normal now... is it Monday?

Just me I guess.... Somehow I pushed something.... All better now

Did the site just change? Navigation??? All new this morning.... or is it just me???

Well, it looks like Bear needs a front dif... not sure exactly at this point to what extreme... but he went in for a brake issue... (DUM DUM MOVE on my part) and he gets diagnosed with front dif issues... So, brake parts ordered... Bear being put back together... picking him up tomorrow 250.00 lighter in the pocket.... and a differential in need of servicing.... I think somewhere I read something about this..... 😢 "If you build them, THEY WILL BREAK!!!" -----JDS----- I'll probably be looking into drivelines next... :'(

Holy Sam Holy!!!! 102" across the front??? That definitely BLOWS my 52" (in total 2x6 on bumper @slight angle, 2x6 @ angle above A pillar, 1x27 straight ahead (on roof) AWAY!!!! I also have a 27" facing rearward (back of cab) and a 14? mounted on each door (mounted through OEM door bolt holes above window) I can run with side and forward facing leds only (no OEM headlights) with pretty much no issues... Usually only the forward facing 5.... Now let it be known..... I've done my own wiring, so rather than running all my accessories off the main electrical system.... IE: the fuses, breakers, and relays..... and added an additional bus bar that runs directly to my auxiliary battery. That way I could split my LOAD.... It still took some understanding the system and the draw of my accessories... and they are MANY!!!! I would think though.... if you check the amperage draw on those bars.... each one will be pushing the limits of the charging system, without adding the essential power needed... at least at an idle/low rpms for any length of time.... My suggestion would be (if it really causes an issue) add a group 24 DEEP CELL battery rather than another OEM battery... (same placement) not that this will STOP THE PROBLEM..... BUT.... it may give you enough storage before dropping to a state that would require the charging system.... that is if you wire it in the manner described above... What is being described by the click and a couple seconds later it comes back on..... is what is known as a "breaker" fuse... it overheats.... BREAKS..... cools down and is ready to go again.... you are drawing more than the breaker can handle..... and it BREAKS..... kinda like a fusible link.... it just resets itself... Look up "bus bar" on amazon and wire yourself in a power bar straight from the auxiliary battery.... Joe

If you go to amazon and look up bus bar... I used two... one is hooked to constant power and one to keyed on power. (Marked it on cover as well as yellow tape on hot lead) Bear has a heater and was missing some of the panels/pieces that were shown in the directions..... So I made a panel that mounts below the dash...(OEM placement of the missing parts as well as the steering column bracket) Tucked up out of the way.... this allows me EASY ACCESS power if needed in the future without PULLING THE FREAKING HEATER!! ***One other note*** I have an auxiliary battery as well. So my CONTINUAL POWER is run off the rear battery directly (since I had to run the wire anyway) As for the brain mounting to the center seat??? I mounted mine directly to the tunnel below the seat without a hitch.... and my seat still works perfectly... ummm... oh yeah... considering I had to run other wires UP the A pillar.... the path to it is pretty easy ... if you pull the front left hood panel you can see and access the foam plug into the cab. My kit had plenty of wire to make the trip.... While I was at it and the panel was off.... I put the horn in there which kept my hood compartment open for my winch control and spare belt... Hope this helps, Let me know if I missed anything, Joe

Im pretty open these days...

From what I continually read.... I'M GLAD I BOUGHT A 2019.... As for #4.... Bears guage is pretty slow... and takes an act of God to completely fill him.... with the design of the filler... For the most part it's no real issue considering we rarely push the limits of say a 150 mile run... only a couple times wheelin' in HEAVY SNOW did we even get close... 100 miles.... It also sounds as if you have a fuel tank venting issue.... THE PROBLEM as I see it, is the AC UNIT!!! Not sure what CanAm is going to do..... considering you and MANY OTHERS are having the same issues...... With no fix in sight yet..... I mean heck!!! They can't even get the heat to work on half of them.... At least if they COULD get the heat working....... and BYPASS THE AC!!!! ( until they get it figured out) Give everyone a rebate check for the cost the AC. And when they actually FIGURE IT OUT..... They activate the units (in good faith for the MAJOR INCONVENIENCE) FREE OF CHARGE!!! Unfortunately..... I don't see that happening. GOOD LUCK!!! Joe

I'll have you kicking back in no time!! First off we'll have you add a couple bus bars that are ACCESSIBLE!!! For ease of more upgrades in the future needing power.... also...As for the wiring to the front end, I went through the foam in the drivers A pillar... under the left hood panel, where I put my horn so it was out of the way.... He's in getting his brakes gone through right now or I'd take pictures....

Give me a call.... 971-264-4208 I'll see what I can do...

I'll check it out next week.

Do you have a local Fastenal?

Zipcode? I'll check it out

So here's one for the weekend funny... A car full of Irish nuns is sitting at a traffic light in downtown Dublin, when a bunch of rowdy drunks pull up alongside of them. "Hey, show us yer tits, ya bloody penguins!" shouts one of the drunks. Quite shocked, Mother Superior turns to Sister Mary Immaculata and says, "I don't think they know who we are; show them your cross." Sister Mary Immaculata rolls down her window and shouts, "Piss off, ya fookin' little wankers, before I come over there and rip yer balls off!" Sister Mary Immaculata then rolls up her window, looks back at Mother Superior, quite innocently, and asks, "Did that sound cross enough?"

Not sure it fits a 20.... But probably...

Considering site is relatively new and not many old defenders on the market at this time..... and this group sitting idle.... I thought maybe I would throw out a little food for thought.... Each one of us has or will have a considerable amount of thought/time/money wrapped up in our machines.... Some will ride them HARD and put them away WET!!! While others of us will treat them better than our spouses.... DON'T TELL MY WIFE!!! LOL... But seriously you get my point.... Heck.... Bear gets a pressure wash before he gets loaded back up in the trailer..... but that's me.... I know SOMEDAY it will be hard to let go of Bear... (or your Bear) Especially for what I/we have into him/them!!! Again.... DON'T TELL MY WIFE!!! I guess the point I'm going for is.... I understand that if I/we trade him/them in? I/we will be offered BOTTOM DOLLAR!!! So that the dealer can mark them back up and make some money.... kinda like a custom built chopper.... So we try and sell them privately..... To which we get people coming out and doing just what the dealer does.... LOW BALLING!!! So is it worth the time and effort to deal with it???? Sometimes I think NO!!! So my question to those that WOULD sell in time.... (for the sake of a used rig purchaser) How will you determine your asking price? For those of you that may be looking for a "used" defender..... Take in mind that these rigs have been meticulously thought out.... and you are showing interest in a certian rigs accessories..... just know..... THEY PROBABLY DIDN'T COME STOCK!! And most WEREN'T CHEAP!! Yet were vital to its job.... or you wouldnt be looking at that particular rig.... Be cognate of that when figuring your offer... sure the rig is used.... but if well maintained.... these Rotax rigs will GO FOREVER!!! Nice thing about buying something from/through the forum is.... it will most likely have a background here on the site... Just know..... IN NO SHAPE OR FORM IS BEAR FOR SALE AT THIS TIME!!! I'VE GOT TOO MUCH INTO HIM!!!!