honda400ex2003

8-15 is usually a good range. maybe a little more depending on use. I run all of my stuff around 8-10. steve

could always use something like an STI x comp, they fit a 14" rim and are great tires for on road use- they wear like iron. I have probably 1000 miles on mine on gravel and black top without any signs of wear. they are also low pressure rated tires for off road use applications where it is applicable. steve

https://www.amazon.com/MaxLife-Valvoline-Universal-Antifreeze-Coolant/dp/B0033QQ50M/ref=sr_1_2?crid=28YVRZLUT51LS&keywords=antifreeze&qid=1682016037&refinements=p_36%3A1253493011&rnid=386419011&s=automotive&sprefix=antifreeze%2Caps%2C152&sr=1-2

as long as you get something compatible with both automotive types, you will be fine. steve

I'm in wi, so I didn't have any issues. It came programmed with a bunch of stuff from rugged. I have 2 radios so I only used what was in them to comm between the 2. Weatherman was the one I used a bunch. Even being high power, I wouldn't suggest them without a good headset or helmet setup to run with it. Steve

it seems that to the right buyer, they will pay almost full price for oem stuff. most of them end up in the 200-300$ range though by me, even with rims and tire combos. they are a hard sell, it seems. there are so many aftermarket rim options that people can get with new tires on them already that it isnt worth the hassle of $20 a tire to have them changed if they dont have the right tools to do it. i tend to keep all of my stock rims, if i ever sell it, it will get them back on it in most cases. then i sell the aftermarkets as additional or end up sweetening the deal for a buyer so they have the stockers too. people who are looking for used machines around me, seem to want them stock or close to it for best $$ value. steve

im with Ross, rugged or utvcom would be the best bet. personally i would go rugged since i already have a couple of hand helds that are programmed to rugged channels and some club members i ride with have rugged. standard kit then mount as needed, where ever you want. steve

it wouldnt hurt to crank them up a notch or two for the winter then turn down for the summer. it will stiffen it up and get you a little more clearance for driving through the deep stuff. youll just want to keep an eye on the angle of the plow to the ground so it doesnt get too steep and not roll snow. steve

glad it worked out well for you! my max cab noise is worse than anything else. the exhaust is so far back that it really doesnt bother me in front. steve

you could use riv-nuts. that way you can at least get them back off easily by just unscrewing them. mainly for skid plates, there is a tool to crimp them so make sure you get it. steve

sweet looking machine, congrats! enjoy it! steve

I think Marqcad does as well out of aluminum. they seem like nice upgrades to the box. steve

he hasnt been on for a year so he may not reply. maybe someone else will. steve

not much of a selection, either the BRP ones or a couple of after market companies. the oem doors are usually pretty good but they are big $$. id assume that the aftermarket ones are good too, check some searches for the specific brand door you may want and see what comes around. steve

how tall is that? steve

it would depend on if the same engine is used in each gauge, plus you would need to find someone to marry them together. usually switching amongst product lines with gauges will not work unless it is a like engine IE 900ace to 900ace or 2 stroke for 2 stroke of same vintage. also the control system may be different, the smart gauges have more control buttons than our standard gauges do so that they can be manipulated. im not sure if the gps seadoo gauge has a joystick but odds are that it has something to change, zoom, etc. where ours do not. anything is possible however, just have to be willing to put in the time. its probably easier to get a garmin or a tablet with a mount anyway, plus the gps imaging is much better and easier to operate on those units. steve

m12 hatchet from milwaukee or something similar is a sweet little setup for carrying. I carry one in the summer on the defender. steve

i would also add: dry socks and gloves some dry food pouches/bags in case of over night staying somewhere zip ties wire rope not just tow ropes but kinetic ropes so that you can get a little momentum to help pull and no initial shock of the pull. a striker, lighter, matches or flint for lighting a fire towels, paper and cotton. can be used to wipe hands, start fires, etc. flares would be helpful flags to stick in the ground would be helpful if needing to mark something or a path out flash lights dry bag or a heat bag, the aluminum reflector style ones carabiner clips just a few more things i carry steve

easiest to do is check it with a gauge to see where it is rated for. the only reason to use 100% antifreeze is to keep it low. its not like you are adding a gallon or two to top off the system. 50/50 would be pointless to use when its probably not even that much from the factory. might as well keep it as close to -35 as possible. steve

i agree with andy, injectors are pretty bullet proof on them. check your fuel pressure along with your plugs and such as andy mentioned. pumps have been known to fail, they will still run but will not build enough pressure. i had a poorly gapped plug on mine that was causing issues. new properly gapped plugs and it has ran fine for 1200 miles. steve

just noticed this original post was from 2021 before it was bumped earlier today... steve

theres lots of choices out there for air, especially if you are just blowing up mattresses. 12v air blowers, milwaukee m18 or m12 or similar, on board air like a ARB that would allow for air for any time as well as being a little more weather proof. i wouldnt use a pancake type compressor or something on 120v power that is inverted. those have huge power draws and would likely be hard to find a small enough one to run well on an inverter. if you are just looking to run an electric air pump for a coleman or something, that would be feasible. this is a 4 amp start up and a 2 amp normal. 240watts running and 480watts start up for reference. https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000021141-Quickpump-120V-Pump/dp/B00DYEDPBA/ref=asc_df_B00DYEDPBA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241944202239&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=69008233730385516&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019171&hvtargid=pla-420357401434&psc=1 this is a 1000watt power inverter that would work. might as well put some gator clips on it and run it direct to the battery while the machine is running or wire it in and keep it in a safe place. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200833026_200833026?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Electrical > Renewable Energy > Power Inverters %2B Accessories&utm_campaign=Nature Power&utm_content=88420&gclid=Cj0KCQiAiJSeBhCCARIsAHnAzT95hL3Z1t1jH3Ie9biKONB-zFqUtzHMQq48DxLgMUaoMm5tNtAc_sUaAplFEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds if those arent an option that fits an ARB or something would be the next best thing followed by handheld units that you can carry in a box. steve

snowmobiles also dont have a low gear, that does help the clutching when they are running in low. im sure you could but you wont really gain enough to make it worth the testing. they are slow regardless of what you do to them. lol steve

welcome to the forum! steve

1600 miles on mine since december 22nd last year when i picked mine up. only issue ive had was an improperly gapped spark plug that caused issues with running. after i gapped and changed the plugs it was good as new. too bad my dealer couldnt figure it out in 2 trips over there... either way, it got a new fuel filter while i was messing around as well after i forgot to put the gas cap on and drove it on some gravel roads for 20 miles or so. it does all i ask of it, its been driving through the 18" of snow the last couple weeks to clear snowmobile trails for our club. the max is nice for loading people in it as well. steve