Mark

I went with the 9 for a spare. The 11 would be hard to steer if you had a flat on the front.

ZK, Nets are not very useful. They have very little stretch. The nets in the backseat work really good but the ones in the dash are almost useless. You could extend or replace the shock cord with something better but I haven't done anything with it.

I did something similar under my back seat. I tried Kolpin and then switched to Suregrip. They have a knuckle that you can loosen and adjust the angle so even though the seat is at an angle they can be adjusted to be level. They also hold the gun better than anything I could find, they come with velcro but you don't need it. You can do as Andy suggested and just self tap a piece of flat bar or angle iron across the supports of the seat. On another note if you are doing this for your front seat you are going to loose the use of the center console anytime you are carrying a gun, which for me is always. That was not acceptable for my use so I used the Suregrip mounts and made a bracket to go over the grab bar. Now my guns are handy and my drink is also. Attached are pictures of the underseat and front seat mounts. The little rubber feet on the floorboard are from gungrabber and just pop riveted to the plastic floor.

I was at the dealer the other day and decided to check the tires on the 2019 and they were also 8 ply like my 2018. I didn't check other models but the lonestar definatly comes with 8 ply.

thegrizz, Procedure for the 2018 is in the manual. I don't know if you have the LCD Gauge or the Multi Function Gauge. Procedures look pretty similar. Attached is what does it for 2018 model, may work on the 2019 LCD Gauge Maintenance Reset.pdf Multifunction guage maintenance light reset.pdf

Ben, looks to me like a can am plug that goes to the back of their switches. Do you have the Work/Eco/Normal Mode selector switch on you machine? This may have been an option on some models. If yes, Is it functioning? If so might check your other switches to make sure they all work.

I test drove drove a Chinese made utv . It was an Odies. Sounds similar to the Cfmoto. They add all the accessories and the price is way cheaper and a long warranty. I was not impressed with the test drive or the horror stories I found online. I will say my kids have a KANDI go kart and it has been pretty reliable, but it just runs around the yard and not in any serious terrain. I spent the extra for a Can Am and don't regret it at all.

Nice Job Jerry. That taper on the ends is a lot of extra work but makes it look custom. You must also have something in mind for that small lighted license plate spot.

Jerry, I believe the full synthetic is their winter oil and the semi synthetic is their summer oil. I used full synthetic aftermarket oil in the summer oil weight from walmart. Quicksilver UTV/ATV 5w-40. You can't go wrong with the can am oil though, but it cost more. I posted a thread a while back comparing the cost of the two. I ordered the filters and crush washers on cheapcycle parts. Make sure you change the gearbox oil also. On mine the gearbox needed it the most. I also changed the front differential but it looked pretty new after a year.

They Looks Awesome. Too bad about the Canada shipping. Superbright has good stuff but sometimes it doesn't warrant the extra money. You got enough lightbars that if a headlight bulb goes out you should be able to see fine. Good thought on the fan, I also think with all the mud that gets thrown up under the fender that a fan cooled light could fail.

Land, Sorry to hear your new can am is acting like that, what a bummer. That's an interesting set of issues and not an obvious common denominator that would point to the problem. Since it's new I would suspect like you did that something just came unplugged and hopefully an easy fix. Since your speedometer is an obvious problem might start with the Vehicle speed sensor. If it came unplugged or quit working it might cause this. It's located in the rear on top of the gear box behind the plate right above your trailer hitch area. While back there I would also check the fluid level in your gearcase. It's the plastic dipstick towards the back of the motor on the passenger side that takes a socket to unscrew. It's possible they forgot to fill it up. if so that would be bad. Your speedometer could also be a bad display, bad ecm, or corrupted software in the ecm. The jumping and low rpm sounds like cam shaft timing issue, maybe this points back to the ecm being bad or corrupted. The "wrong gear" is the belt protection part of the computer telling you you're damaging your belt. I'm not sure what the computer take it's que to display that message. Maybe it's throttle position and speed to see if your putting too much torque on the belt, so the speedometer might be causing that message. Given all these things and and the fact that your not getting a check engine light, I'd lean toward a bad ecm or software. I assume your taking it back to the dealer to fix. Let us know what you find out.

My DPS went out and was replaced by Dealer. I looked into the aftermarket power steering a little when I was thinking the factory one could be an ongoing problem. It since has been fine so I haven't done much more with it. I do know the can am steering works different as your speed changes so less help at high speed and more help at low speed. I couldn't find where the aftermarket one did that. It may, but I just didn't see it listed. I think I was looking at super atv one or something like that. Also the factory one has to be zeroed straight ahead using the can am BUDS diagnostic computer. I'm not sure how you zero the aftermarket system. Those are a few questions I would ask before buying one. Your friend may have those answers or the seller should.

Attached is a pretty good chart I used when I did mine. Another thing of note is that the watt or amp listed of the led light fixtures you get off of Amazon are way off from reality. It's so widespread I'm surprised there hasn't been a class action suit against amazon because of it . My 240 watt lightbar is 196.8 watts. My 120 watt sidelights are actually 21.4 watts. My 27 watt backup lights are 14.5 watts. I'm sure the lumens are similarily inflated, but I don't have any way to test them. How to Size wires for DC Circuit.pdf

I don't have any under dash lighting, but I put in a dome light. I wanted something that had red and white option. There wasn't a lot to choose from. The one I got from amazon didn't come with a backing plate of any kind so I had to get a sheet of ABS plastic and make a round plate that would mount to the can am roof. In the end it worked out pretty good. The white will light up both the front and back seat pretty good. The red light just lights the front area but it does preserve my night vision when I need it. It's the only thing that I wired up that doesn't go through the accessory switch, so it will work even if the key isn't on.

I used 12 gauge for everything. I bought a roll of good quality speaker wire in black that is easy to hide but has the + printed on it to identify the positive and negative wire. I'm sure it's overkill for most items though.

Yes I replaced all 4 bulbs. Two bulbs come in each package so get two packages if you want to do all 4. The bulbs are all the same low or high beam so the H8-HLV4 is the right one for either.

Yeah, I may just have to get over this issue and move on. I just went out last weekend and put about 60 miles on it and didn't notice it at all. It seems i only notice it at home. It may be as Dragoon suggested that it is just cold because at home I drive it in real short periods. I'm still going to take the clutches apart and see what's up in there though.

$500 for 18 months is a close call. $750 for 5 years is a must do item. My DPS went out at 7 months. They covered it with their good will account because it was so new and obviously not been rode hard, but it would have been about $1300 if they didn't.

Those deer look like they are ready for you to start that garden.

Rudy I have the full tilt in Texas and I definitely recommend it. If your in a lot of brush or overhanging limbs you can lower it to the cracked open position to get some air but keep it out of the limbs. When it's really hot having it full open is nice. I go from closed in the morning to full open by noon sometimes in fall and spring. I have the hardcoated poly. It takes a little babying in that you can't just wipe mud off it, you have to rinse it off. I also don't use windex as it's supposed to mess it up so I use Honda Polish to clean it and RainX Plastic for water repellent. I haven't tried the glass but if it's not too heavy it would be better if you are in a place that gets a lot of mud.

Oh Yeah!! That's Nice. You found a talented welder.

I'm not seeing the sale info on their website anymore. The email I got says it ends 2/19 at 11:59pm CST so it should still be on. The code is PRESDAY19 to enter for the 15% off.

Thats a nice looking machine! You have really got a lot of add on's on it. I like those rails along the bed. I need to get some of those and the fender flares also.

That's the correct part number. They are very easy to install. I think you just turn bulb from the back a 1/4 turn or so and pull out, unplug wiring harness, plug new one in to harness and insert and turn new bulb 1/4 turn or so. Be careful when inserting and turning new bulb as the dog ears are plastic. I had to put my hand in back to turn while looking through the lens from the front to see that everything was lining up. Then just zip tie wires up out of the way in the back. You might test them before zip tying wires because the plug may be polarity sensitive and it's a 50/50 chance you get it right. Also I didn't find that the orientation of the bulb affected the pattern or cutoff line at all so don't need to mess with any of those adjustments. Keep your old bulbs so when when you trade in for a new utv you can swap them. They come with a lifetime warranty might as well use them a while.

I got the first oil change done. The front differential looked brand new. The engine oil looked like it needed a change but not too bad. Had metal particles on drain plug and oil filter had some as well. These looked more like they were from it being a new engine as some of them were long and narrow like thread cuttings but there were also flakes in the oil filter. Gearcase oil looked pretty good but the magnetic drain plug was completely full of metallic sludge which looked like it was more from wear and tear than being new. The rear vehicle speed sensor was also recommended to be cleaned so i did. It had a few metal particles stuck to it but not too bad. The vehicle speed sensor and the front differential fill plug are very difficult to remove and reinstall. If you don't have a winch the front diff may not be that bad. I have 600 miles on mine and about 80 hrs. After looking at the oil I'm leaning more toward agreeing with the dealer and changing them early, maybe at 40 to 50 hrs to get that metal out of there, at least for the engine oil and the gear case. The front diff looks like it could have gone longer.