Mark

Yes. No experience with them in the mud yet yet but they look like they should help.

BB, On the defender(at least mine) the switches and instrument panel light when the key is turned on. They are not tied to the headlight switch from what I can tell. I have 4 factory switches and 4 that i added and all of them the lower half (or upper half is the switch is flipped) lights up when the key is turned on. There doesn't look to be a good option to get what your wanting unless all for of your headlights stay on in high beam mode then you could wire the switch post #6 to the low beam positive wire. I would recommend just jumpering the #2 and #6 post on the switch and then running over to the accessory post so they are only hot with the key on. Then they will function just like the factory switches. Attached is a photo of my switches showing the jumper wires.

If it was me I'd make a tee out of 2x2 square metal tubing and plug it into front receiver hitch and then mount the kolpin clamps on it to carry the auger. Attached is a picture of the kolpin clamps, they are pretty stout. If you don't have a front reciever you could make something to bolt onto the bumper. I think I have the same bumper as the XMR so if you decide to add the front receiver hitch you'll likely have to go to harbor freight and get a hitch extension and then cut and redrill it to extend the factory reciever to be flush with the front of your bumper, at least I did on mine. But then you can add anything you want to the front fairly easy and remove it when you don't need it.

Eric, I'm pretty sure one of the relays came with a harness i didn't use and I think I got the others from local parts store. You can get them on amazon. They are Bosch style 4 pin SPST. The fuse block i did get from amazon. I wish I had gotten one with 1 battery connection to reduce the number of wires to the battery to 1 instead of 6. Here is the one I got https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CBGUXN4/?coliid=I4LIITXVRVSUR&colid=15TKOXMPBDU1D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Here is the one i should of got https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1MTF0/?coliid=I2SZAFA9DBISX6&colid=15TKOXMPBDU1D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it You can also get the relays with the fuse built in if you are going to have all your devices on relays and then you don't need the fuse block. Here is an example of that https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBAO1SA/?coliid=I3K4NEZP3K2UOS&colid=15TKOXMPBDU1D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Derrty, I put a fuse block and relays in the back near the battery(see attached ). I ran all the power to the roof up the right rear roll cage post. Just run the positive wires behind the battery and into the engine compartment then up and to the right until you find the hole in the roll cage post. You will have to use a fish wire to get them through there. I grounded everything to the frame up in the roof to minimize the wires i had to run up the rollcage. For your switches in the dash, just power and ground them from the under dash terminal. Then run the trigger wire from the switch down and under the floor back to the relays in the battery compartment. I run a 42" lightbar, 2 sidelights, 3 pod lights on the bumper and all 4 headlights and occasionally the rear lights and i haven't needed a second battery. If you have a stereo going that might put you over. Best I can tell I'm using about 350 watts on accessories. I don't know what the computer/dash lights/etc. and power steering are using but I seem to be staying under the stator output of 650 watts on my HD10, not sure what the HD8 has. One of the things I have found is that the amazon/ebay light bars and pods stated watts are way over inflated from what they actually draw. Best bet is to use a meter to check the actual amp draw of each component to see what your using. fuses and relays.pdf

Coachgun, It is not difficult to do yourself. You need a few parts from can am. Engine Oil Filter, Oil Filter o Ring, Engine Oil Drainplug Gasket, Gearbox Drainplug Gasket. Then Front Diff Oil, Engine oil, Gearbox Oil. Attached is a photo of the three oils I use. I use the Lucas in the front diff, the Quicksilver in the engine, and the supertech in the gearbox. You can get all of them on walmart.com. I ordered the filter and gaskets from cheapcycle parts but if you are near a dealer it may be just as easy to go there for them. I also removed and cleaned the vehicle speed sensor in the gearbox because it's magnetic and it will pick up some metal particles in the first oil change. It was a bit hard to remove due to it's location in the back. I have about 800 miles on these oils and they still look new but I'm about to change again just cause I want to make it an annual event.

I just ordered the sport fender flares. Hopefully no more mud in my lap. They have them on Partzilla for $173 with free shipping.

I did my first service at 80 hrs and there was a lot of metal was on the oil filter. Also a lot of metallic sludge on the gear box drain plug. Front differential still looked pretty new. If you have a 1000 miles and haven't changed it before I would recommend doing it. From what I saw on mine, the dealer recommendation of changing it while still pretty new may be good advice. I'm about to change mine again as it's coming up on the 2 year mark and I'll see if the metals shavings have all gone away. From the looks of my oil when i check the level it still looks pretty clean so I'm hopeful they are just a thing when the engine is new.

Here is the schematic, maybe it'll help. Didn't see a procedure. Front Schematic.pdf

Sometimes I have noticed the fan come on when the engine hasn't been running long. It's set for a pretty narrow window to turn on at 205F and off at 198F. If it's cold outside maybe it's staying cool enough that it's right near that temperature range that's tripping on and off a lot. I haven't really noticed how many bars mine normally shows but I'll watch it next time I'm out. At 237F it will go into limp mode and then you know you got an issue.

Seems reasonable price to me. I think I paid $250 for the spare tire and a rim and then spent a little more to have the tire mounted on a rim. 4 new tires and rim all mounted would be over a thousand new. I've been pretty happy with the bighorns.

Welcome to the Forum. I just use rainX plastic on the windshield and keep a squeegee for the occasion that the water on the windshield is too much too put up with. The heater I have is a Golf cart buddy and works good for me with the soft doors in a crew cab but I'm in Texas and probably not as cold as you have to deal with in Newfoundland. Another thing I do is use an electric heater on a timer (extension cord to wall outlet) so it's all thawed out in the morning when I go out early.

Sounds like they are just replacing the parts involved with the error in order of cheapest to most expensive to replace. Given those error codes they likely fixed it. Only thing sounds like they didn't change was the electrical harness between ECM and the throttle body. Hopefully they got it.

Harbor freight has a pretty good electronic battery tester for about $60. I use mine a lot. Also if you go to battery store such as Napa or batteries Plus they have the electronic tester that can test the battery. 12.38 volts is pretty low, somewhere around 50% of capacity. Sometimes the voltage can be good and they still cannot deliver the amps, only way to know is to test it with a tester.

That's Pretty Country. Defiantly a nail biter on that hill climb, glad you made it.