Mark

Yes. No experience with them in the mud yet yet but they look like they should help.

BB, On the defender(at least mine) the switches and instrument panel light when the key is turned on. They are not tied to the headlight switch from what I can tell. I have 4 factory switches and 4 that i added and all of them the lower half (or upper half is the switch is flipped) lights up when the key is turned on. There doesn't look to be a good option to get what your wanting unless all for of your headlights stay on in high beam mode then you could wire the switch post #6 to the low beam positive wire. I would recommend just jumpering the #2 and #6 post on the switch and then running over to the accessory post so they are only hot with the key on. Then they will function just like the factory switches. Attached is a photo of my switches showing the jumper wires.

If it was me I'd make a tee out of 2x2 square metal tubing and plug it into front receiver hitch and then mount the kolpin clamps on it to carry the auger. Attached is a picture of the kolpin clamps, they are pretty stout. If you don't have a front reciever you could make something to bolt onto the bumper. I think I have the same bumper as the XMR so if you decide to add the front receiver hitch you'll likely have to go to harbor freight and get a hitch extension and then cut and redrill it to extend the factory reciever to be flush with the front of your bumper, at least I did on mine. But then you can add anything you want to the front fairly easy and remove it when you don't need it.

Eric, I'm pretty sure one of the relays came with a harness i didn't use and I think I got the others from local parts store. You can get them on amazon. They are Bosch style 4 pin SPST. The fuse block i did get from amazon. I wish I had gotten one with 1 battery connection to reduce the number of wires to the battery to 1 instead of 6. Here is the one I got https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CBGUXN4/?coliid=I4LIITXVRVSUR&colid=15TKOXMPBDU1D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Here is the one i should of got https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1MTF0/?coliid=I2SZAFA9DBISX6&colid=15TKOXMPBDU1D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it You can also get the relays with the fuse built in if you are going to have all your devices on relays and then you don't need the fuse block. Here is an example of that https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBAO1SA/?coliid=I3K4NEZP3K2UOS&colid=15TKOXMPBDU1D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Derrty, I put a fuse block and relays in the back near the battery(see attached ). I ran all the power to the roof up the right rear roll cage post. Just run the positive wires behind the battery and into the engine compartment then up and to the right until you find the hole in the roll cage post. You will have to use a fish wire to get them through there. I grounded everything to the frame up in the roof to minimize the wires i had to run up the rollcage. For your switches in the dash, just power and ground them from the under dash terminal. Then run the trigger wire from the switch down and under the floor back to the relays in the battery compartment. I run a 42" lightbar, 2 sidelights, 3 pod lights on the bumper and all 4 headlights and occasionally the rear lights and i haven't needed a second battery. If you have a stereo going that might put you over. Best I can tell I'm using about 350 watts on accessories. I don't know what the computer/dash lights/etc. and power steering are using but I seem to be staying under the stator output of 650 watts on my HD10, not sure what the HD8 has. One of the things I have found is that the amazon/ebay light bars and pods stated watts are way over inflated from what they actually draw. Best bet is to use a meter to check the actual amp draw of each component to see what your using. fuses and relays.pdf

Coachgun, It is not difficult to do yourself. You need a few parts from can am. Engine Oil Filter, Oil Filter o Ring, Engine Oil Drainplug Gasket, Gearbox Drainplug Gasket. Then Front Diff Oil, Engine oil, Gearbox Oil. Attached is a photo of the three oils I use. I use the Lucas in the front diff, the Quicksilver in the engine, and the supertech in the gearbox. You can get all of them on walmart.com. I ordered the filter and gaskets from cheapcycle parts but if you are near a dealer it may be just as easy to go there for them. I also removed and cleaned the vehicle speed sensor in the gearbox because it's magnetic and it will pick up some metal particles in the first oil change. It was a bit hard to remove due to it's location in the back. I have about 800 miles on these oils and they still look new but I'm about to change again just cause I want to make it an annual event.

I just ordered the sport fender flares. Hopefully no more mud in my lap. They have them on Partzilla for $173 with free shipping.

I did my first service at 80 hrs and there was a lot of metal was on the oil filter. Also a lot of metallic sludge on the gear box drain plug. Front differential still looked pretty new. If you have a 1000 miles and haven't changed it before I would recommend doing it. From what I saw on mine, the dealer recommendation of changing it while still pretty new may be good advice. I'm about to change mine again as it's coming up on the 2 year mark and I'll see if the metals shavings have all gone away. From the looks of my oil when i check the level it still looks pretty clean so I'm hopeful they are just a thing when the engine is new.

Here is the schematic, maybe it'll help. Didn't see a procedure. Front Schematic.pdf

Sometimes I have noticed the fan come on when the engine hasn't been running long. It's set for a pretty narrow window to turn on at 205F and off at 198F. If it's cold outside maybe it's staying cool enough that it's right near that temperature range that's tripping on and off a lot. I haven't really noticed how many bars mine normally shows but I'll watch it next time I'm out. At 237F it will go into limp mode and then you know you got an issue.

Seems reasonable price to me. I think I paid $250 for the spare tire and a rim and then spent a little more to have the tire mounted on a rim. 4 new tires and rim all mounted would be over a thousand new. I've been pretty happy with the bighorns.

Welcome to the Forum. I just use rainX plastic on the windshield and keep a squeegee for the occasion that the water on the windshield is too much too put up with. The heater I have is a Golf cart buddy and works good for me with the soft doors in a crew cab but I'm in Texas and probably not as cold as you have to deal with in Newfoundland. Another thing I do is use an electric heater on a timer (extension cord to wall outlet) so it's all thawed out in the morning when I go out early.

Sounds like they are just replacing the parts involved with the error in order of cheapest to most expensive to replace. Given those error codes they likely fixed it. Only thing sounds like they didn't change was the electrical harness between ECM and the throttle body. Hopefully they got it.

Harbor freight has a pretty good electronic battery tester for about $60. I use mine a lot. Also if you go to battery store such as Napa or batteries Plus they have the electronic tester that can test the battery. 12.38 volts is pretty low, somewhere around 50% of capacity. Sometimes the voltage can be good and they still cannot deliver the amps, only way to know is to test it with a tester.

That's Pretty Country. Defiantly a nail biter on that hill climb, glad you made it.

I have the back window also. Holds heat in during the winter when I have the doors on. I've heard it also helps with dust by forcing the air coming through the open windshield outward thus keeping the dust out instead of vacuuming it in. I've never rode without it so I can't compare to see if that is true. I get dust in the back seat with it installed, but not much in the front seat so maybe it's working. I'm pretty happy with it.

I have the same issue. My deer Lease is near Ozona. I use Quadboss tire sealant in all the tires and it's been 100% effective to date but I'm not sure how much more those tires will take. When they finally wear out I'm thinking of trying the goldspeed spartans. They are 12 ply and stiff enough to run flat. $935 for all 4 replacement tires. https://www.goldspeedproducts.com/gps-rp-utv-run-flat/660-gps-rp-spartan-29x9x14-29x11x14-run-flat-tires.html. My brother has kevlar tires on his polaris and he got a flat and had to start using the quadboss sealant also, so if the thorns go through the kevlar they'll probably go through anything.

The windshield was $849 at the dealer. I installed myself. It was very easy to install. If I remember correctly you loosen up the front half of the roof and the front part of the roll cage was already pre-drilled to match the bolts in the hinges. So just install the bolts, tighten down after getting it straight and reattach the roof. The lower part of the windshield has a few screws you install in the dash for the handle latch. I think the hydraulic lifters just went right in predrilled holes. You can probably do the whole thing in less than an hour. I think the one that is made out of glass is about $500 more than the poly windshield and may be worth the extra if your going to be getting into a lot of mud that may scratch it. I get mud on mine a lot and just rinse it off and don't have any scratches yet. I'm sure the glass model is also heavier.

I have the Can Am Full Flip Up. I love it. It's the polycarbonate model which scratches if you don't clean it right but the ability to open fully really lets in a lot of air when it's hot and your traveling slow. The radiator and front bulkhead put out a lot of heat that I need out of the cab. I would be worried the fold down wouldn't let enough air flow. I can ride full speed with it in up position but rarely do. It rattles a little but not really noticeable. It has never come loose.

I want one. Only complaint would be the cup holders moved to the middle seat area. Would get in the way of a passenger or my gun rack. Other than that it would be nice to be able to ride somewhat dust free.

Attached is what the back battery compartment looks like. Forgot to attach to previous post fuses and relays.pdf

Jimmy, There are a few ways to do it. I bought and installed a fuse block in the back seat battery compartment. Then run from the battery to the fuse block and you will have multiple spots to connect and install fused circuits to your accessories. Also install a relay in between your fuse connection and each electronic device. If you want a switch on the device install a switch in the dash and power the switch from the under dash buss bar and it will only come on when the key is on. If you don't want a switch but only want power when key is on then run a wire from the front under dash buss bar to the connection on the relay in the back.(pull up floor panels on passenger side to run wires) I have posted all the diagrams and photos in the past in some previous posting. It's pretty simple once you do one. Hardest part is running the wires up the rollcage into the ceiling. Can get the fuse block and relays on amazon or at auto parts store. Below is a photo of front under dash connection. Under the black cap(labeled GEP)fuses and relays.pdf in the bottom right of photo is where you connect your "key on" power. Use a light tester or multi meter to verify power only with switch on as I remember that maybe there is a terminal in there that's always hot. Canam Light Wiring Diagram.pdf relay.pdf

I wonder if that message is something the dealer programmed in there. I don't have that message on mine.

I'd check all the rubber pads under the dump bed, you should have 4 of them. 2 in the middle area and 2 up close to the cab. One of mine in the center area came out. Also when you wash it gravel seems to get in the tailgate, might try flushing that out. Your bed when closed should not have any play up or down in it. My locking bars are metal to metal but paint has not worn. I haven't had any noise from the front end. Maybe the winch hook is loose? If not check the fluid in the front differential. Also could be a loose bolt on the shocks that is apparent only when extended?

It's under the hood. Labeled PF4. It doesn't look like a fuse but rather a plug. Undo the left plug and you'll see the 40 amp fuse in there.