Jerry

Todd; i am waiting on a cord to wire my GPS where the factory radio normally would go overhead. I am going to attach using HD Velcro. Once I get the components, I will post a pic.

Recently installed these QuadBoss 30” tires and so far, quite impressed. They are much quieter on pavement.

I was told by the Dealer that the CF moto is made in the same factory as the KTM motorcycles. Found that interesting as I always though the KTM was a great bike. I compared the CF to the defender at a Dealer that had both and believe their market share will likely grow but I was not willing to take the chance. I knew the quality from Can Am and Polaris but wasn’t willing to save a few grand only to be disappointed later.

These are 30” tires and my bumper clears by about 1/2”.

Here is the harness I used in my Cobra. I didn’t use the crotch piece. https://pitstopusa.com/i-17303689-simpson-platinum-5-point-sprint-car-latch-link-ratchet-restraint-system-left-side-ratchet-steel-adjusters.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp17303689&sc_intid=17303689&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIup_Ov67X4QIVxLfACh2kHAIGEAQYCyABEgKuCPD_BwE I’m thinking there has to be a location on the frame somewhere to attach.

My best guess is it for an optional accessory such as a heater.

Found this data for fluids on Amsoil web site which you may find useful for knowing capacities of the various fluids. https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/utv/2018/can-am/defender-hd10/976/us-volume/

Welcome LazyLunker. All you guys with the XMR’s gotta stop putting those pics on! I’m thinking I need another machine when I see how sharp this are😉

1st question Ben, did you get a wiring harness with your light bar purchase? The harness will look like the link here https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-40A-LED-Work-Fog-Light-Bar-Wiring-Harness-Kit-ON-OFF-Switch-Relay-Cable-KIT/372385548066?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144. You really need a relay and fuse with the switch. This type of kit in the link above has the relay and fuse prewired for you. (keeps it simple) Question 2)... to remove dash where switches are on the center panel (see pic), reach behind and push on panel and it will pop out. (FYI, if you have a heater, it needs to be loosened and pivoted out of the way to get to the electrical block as seen in Mark's pic above). There is a black plastic cap on that covers the terminals (one black terminal is negative or ground referred often as "-" and two red which are positive or Hot referred to as "+"). You will want to connect your ground wire from the switch, to the black wire terminal. The red wire will go to the opposite red wire on the block (both the black and red you want to hook to are the outside terminals on the block. The center one stays hot with the key on or off) When wiring your light bar, see the pic below that has the blue banner regarding "rocker switch. The diagram there shows which wire goes from the switch to the relay or power. Since you will be wiring to the terminal under the dash on the Can Am to the hot that only comes on with the key, you can combine the two terminals on the switch that are red on the rocker switch diagram, and also combine the two ground (black wires) on the top of the switch. These two wires (and usually a yellow wire which goes to the light) are in the harness kit with the relay as seen in the image below of the back side of the switch. The switches on the dash need to be cut out to accept the switch. I would recommend that you buy a matching switch (Amber) https://www.ebay.com/itm/SBS-LED-Light-Bar-AMBER-Can-Am-Maverick-Commander-Defender-Rocker-Switch/132498409339?hash=item1ed985477b:g:ZwIAAOSw9vlafK5Q:sc:USPSFirstClass!54025!US!-1 If you use the switch locations to the left of the steering wheel, you simply need to fish your wires over the top of the steering column, Hope that helps. let us know if you have more questions. The first one is always a bit intimidating.

I’ve only had my Defender for a couple months now so haven’t removed them. I have adjusted the passenger side door to fit better. I don’t believe I will remove them for summer. I removed the doors on one of my Polaris machines and it is more enjoyable to drive but the dust from the road gets the cab dirty. Some of the threads on this site talk about half doors which would give that open feeling but keep a large amount of the road dust from entering the cab.

Thanks. I didn’t get my license plate numbers back from WI DNR yet. If you ride on road or trails in WI you need a plate and in SD it needs to be lighted. The license plate kit was from Corbin Custom Works (same place I got the blinker and horn kit).

You could build your own. I have I think I have less than $90 in steel, lights, and lighted license plate. I still need to add a trim piece above bumper to fill the gap.

My humble opinion regarding my previous two machines, 2017 Polaris Ranger 900 EPS and a 2017 Polaris Ranger 1000 Northstar Edition with Polaris Glacier poly plow.. Polaris Pro's...Quite a bit of accessories available, Cab fit is tight and seems to keep the dust out better than the HD-10 cab. Seems to have more pep than the HD-10. Year end rebates attractive. Easier to remove doors. Steers easier than Can Am. Color matched panels on doors look classier than mismatch on Can Am. Polaris Con's...Noisier than Can Am, feels unstable at highway speeds, frame rusts quickly at open tube in front of rear wheels on Rangers. Fit and finish not as precise. Not comfortable for feet under the seat (heels hit the seat support). Non cab versions have open holes all over under the dash and in cold weather, the air freezes your lower parts. The hinged type windows on the doors are terribly inconvenient. No wheel well liners like Can Am. Shift patterns not as positive when engaging gears. Can Am Pro's...Factory heater is more useful than the Polaris. (Polaris roasts your upper body and freezes your feet). At 65 MPH, the steering seems very stable. Oil change is on cool side of motor, On Cab model, flip out windshield with wiper, rear slider, winch, are standard features. Box is heavier duty construction as well as tailgate. Seems to have more torque than the Polaris. Tighter turning radius. Larger diameter tires standard. More room in cab. Flip up seats and fold down center seat/arm rest is convenient. Storage areas are convenient. Power windows nice feature on cab model (however my driver's side is slow and labors to go up). Can Am Con.s... The standard battery is weak. The Can Am plow mount is harder to connect and disconnect than Polaris and the mount is far from the blade, under the machine. Clutch engaging is noisier than Polaris but not as jerky. Heater seems to take up more cab space than Polaris (more of an issue for passenger). No AC option. Summary: The Can Am quality and value for what I wanted (Cab), was a better fit for me. I would not object to buying Polaris again but here is what I priced. 2019 Polaris Ranger Northstar with Heat/AC at $25k MSRP plus flip out windshield, rear sliding window, and winch vs the HD10 Cab at $23,799 MSRP with those features but no AC. Keep in mind that the Polaris Ranger 1000 had a model change in 2018 that improved some of the shortcomings of the 2017.

When I purchased the HD-10, the Dealer stated that Can Am recommended 87. I always had preferred running non oxy, non ethanol 93 in all my engines other than the autos. I have only run 87 in my HD10, and would agree with Dragoon that the fuel efficiency is great.

Thanks. I might not agree come Wednesday/Thursday if we get the 12" of snow forecasted!