Mark

If anyone is considering replacing your stock halogen headlight bulb with LED I got notice the place where I got mine are having a 15% off sale through Tuesday(enter the code thats on the website). I changed mine mainly because the led's draw half the current and put out more than double the lumens. The other thing is when I'm running my led lightbar the white light was different than the yellowish halogen lights and now that I changed them they are all the same color and I was able to adjust the lightbar to aim a little farther down road and use the headlights for closer lighting which created a larger field of view at night. I also got my predator lights there and I put 3 of them on my front bumper. I only use those going in and out of my hunting area before or after daylight, but I really like them. LED Headlights https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-headlight-bulbs-conversion-kits/h8-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink-4000-lumensset/3933/8569/ Predator Lights https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/specialty-high-power-led-spot-lights/25-square-12-watt-led-mini-auxiliary-hunting-and-camping-light-30-degree-red/3462/4566/ Attached are some photos to show the lights. One is the original halogens and then the new led's and then the predator lights

I just put the old belt back on and I'll keep the new one until i need to change it. I'm no clutch expert, but I have a feeling I'm going to be by the time I get this resolved. One of the things I noticed was the belt looked a little loose before i removed it. I was thinking it should be a somewhat tight so when the primary clutch engages it hits the same location on the belt. I can't find any spec on deflection so maybe it's not an issue or maybe my secondary isn't holding the belt at the right location. I also noticed a polished location on the primary that seems larger and better defined than the clutches I've seen in pictures. Anybody know if this is normal?(See Photo). I'm thinking the looseness of the belt is letting it flop around and cause this. I guess I need to buy the tools to remove the clutches and see if anything is out of ordinary. Another thing I noticed was that the new belt i put on and drove maybe a 1\4 mile had the cord wore down noticeably more in about 3 spots on each side but they weren't directly across from each other which makes me think there is something not functioning right with this clutch.

I may have to experiment a little with the lower pressures. So far the only downside of the pressures i'm running has been the ruts I get in my yard. I think a lower pressure would help with that. I have plenty of traction in the mud or steep rocky slopes I need to climb and I frequently drive at 60 mph on paved roads that go through my deer lease and this thing drives as good as my pickup at those speeds so i've been reluctant to change anything but if it still handles good at lower pressures and doesn't dismount itself in the cross slopes it would be nice to reduce the ruts in my yard.

I looked into this a little more and it appears you are correct Dragoon in identifying this shock as not adjustable. The adjustment piece I pointed out in the photo is the spring Preload and is meant to adjust the shock's extension/compression range somewhere near it's center of travel based on the actual load of the machine and all your accessories, cargo, and people so that the shock maintains travel in the up and down direction, but the shock still has the same damping action however you adjust the silver piece. I'm sure the spring has some shock absorbing ability so it's probably not as simple as that and may work better for a particular riding condition in a more compressed or released position. Now I may have to fiddle with it and find the best spot.

Nice! Please share a picture after you get it done, I'd really like to see that.

They seal real good, maybe too good which makes them hard to shut. Think of trying to slide a refrigerator over, that's how i have to close them sometimes. Plant your feet just right and put your shoulder in it. Other times they open and close pretty easy. I have adjusted them but it seems the velcro holding the fabric tight slips a little and the seals rotate around and then they are hard to shut. A lot of times they are caked with mud and that causes some of it. The fabric and vinyl are tough and i haven't had any issues with holes except when i left the window down on the inside and tried to close the door. I then did the refrigerator move about three times before i realized the window was down and the door lock poked a hole in it. I only use them for a few months in winter and they do the job I bought them for by keeping it warm. The golf cart buddy works good in there. I also have an electric heater I put inside the cab that is on a timer to come on a few hours before i go out in the morning. That works good to defrost the windows. If i needed them more than a couple months a year i would recommend the hard doors, but for occasional use they are fine. They are also easy to take on and off. They are also nice when hauling machine on the trailer because I can throw a bunch of gear in the cab, lock the doors and not have to strap it all down. I don't have a lot of pictures of the doors but here are a few. It's raining here all weekend and can't get out to take some decent ones.

Those BG2.5's are nice! It's going to be a tough decision when these bighorns wear out. Do you have the 8 ply or 6 ply on the 2019?

I don't know any suppliers of custom ones. Mine is made by can am, but I have welded angle iron to it to connect some gun holders and it is made out of steel. I would think if you have a local welding shop, they could take the factory one and customize it pretty easy with a moose or anything else. I just used rustoleum flat black to cover the welds and you can't tell the difference in color. Or you could repaint or powder coat the whole thing after the weld work.

I couldn't find anything either that's why I finally had to contact Maxxis to find out where to get one. They said only through Can am. I wonder if it was just the 28" tires or maybe just the 28" on the lone star model. Anyone else have the 8 ply bighorn on their Defender? You would think if they went through all the trouble to get a special tire made for their model they would list it on the features as a selling point. My salesman wasn't aware of it as he tried to sell me some new tires and said the factory tires were 4 ply and wouldn't last. I said I was out of money, which was true but then to get the machine home and find I had 8 ply irked me a bit that he would say I had 4 ply.

I run mine at 16 on the front and 21 on the back. Seems like everywhere I go there is a rut/washout on one side of the trail and the machine is running at a pretty bad cross slope. I worry the tire will come off the sidewall if I go too low on the pressure.

Interesting how he says the the Carnivores are 8 ply and the Bighorns are 6 ply. My Bighorns that were on the machine from Can Am are stamped 8 ply. When I tried to buy a 8 ply for a spare all I could find was a 6 ply. I called Maxxis and asked them where to get the 8 ply and they said it was special for can am and had to go through Can Am to get them. I don't know if they actually put 2 more plys on the tire or if it just qualified as an 8 ply based on the thickness and they just stamped them 8 ply for Can Am. I ended up just buying the 6 ply since it was for a spare and cheaper. The West Texas thorns are able to penetrate the 8 ply Big Horns i have pretty regularly but thanks to the tire sealant i haven't had a flat yet. My brother had the essex kevlar with no sealant and has had flats so the thorns can penetrate the kevlar. He now has the sealant. This may be the best combo with the sealant and kevlar. Anybody know another tire that will hold up to the thorns and cactus? I'm thinking maybe the goldspeed spartan which is 12 ply and similar tread to the bighorn, but I'm not confident anything will. Below is a picture of a typical thorn. If you look closely you can see all the thorns that have broken off in the tires.

Well I changed the belt. The belt is not the issue, in fact it may be a little worse.

Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N191Q7I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Looks like you can get the 2 pack a little cheaper per each. Lots of uses for these. They fit the roll cage very good.

I'll give it a try. Hopefully I'll have some wet and hungry squirrels.

i finished the front brace this weekend. I went a little different route on the materials. It feels pretty solid but isn't as beefy as the back brace. It also will make a good grab bar. The spare also feels solid now and is not stressing the roof any.

I may have to try that. My fruit trees is where they have hit me the worst. I had about 50 peaches on a tree and just as they started to get ripe the squirrels stole every peach. I looked out my window one day and there was a squirrel in the tree and he was passing the peaches down to two squirrels on the ground who were running the peaches into the woods. They also got all my apples but i didn't have near as many of those. I have shot a few of them but they have learned to run when they see me. I got some "just one bite" poison to put out but haven't yet as I'm a little worried what else might eat it and die. The sprinkler idea sounds pretty good. Did you just put one sprinkler at each tree or does it take more?

Is that a firecracker he threw in there? I don't normally carry those but maybe throw some in the tool box. Seriously though if this happens to you, take a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire and suck it down. It will flare the part of the tire that seats on the beads enough that you can then air it up.

Overpasses and the canopy at the gas station, which you would be visiting often with that much wind drag.

Me too. There has got to be a better way than rivets.

Looks Good! I kinda figured your rig would be Maroon but the camo is nice too.

https://www.atvrider.com/where-to-ride-atvs-and-utvs-in-texas Here is a article that looks like it covers a lot of the ATV Parks.

Ok, I see it now. On the Fox shocks they have a dial near the top to adjust the spring like the can am stock shocks and then a lever to adjust I guess the flow of the oil in the shock .

I looked those up. Wow they are nice! Looks expensive but if you can knock out the stereo and lighting in one product it'll save you a lot of time and hassle rigging all that up and you'll end up with a great setup.

Does the 2019 not have the adjustment on the shocks? I have left mine on the softest setting and it rides really good. It has the adjustment on all 4. I am surprised they would remove that. Mine is a 2018 model lonestar.

Building a garden. Although i'm thinking of going the grocery store route next year as it was a lot of work for not much stuff. Maybe I just don't have a green thumb. I have also learned to hate squirrels who steal everything you grow.