RossO

For height I would say you need at least 7ft, but 7.5ft would be about perfect. I just measured my Xmr with tracks and a 3in lift and that comes up to about 85-86in, which is just over 7ft. Also, door height and trailer heights are sometimes different so, make sure the door height is at least 7ft so you can actually drive it in without rubbing the top. As for the width, I would go with the 8.5ft wide trailer. Otherwise you're constantly struggling to get in and out and even just trying to walk beside the machine once you do get out, especially in winter when you have all your cold weather gear on. For the length, 16ft is about perfect. I usually haul mine on an open 16ft and it leaves a couple feet of room on the front and on the back of the trailer when the tracks are on. When the tracks are off I can haul an ATV sideways on the front of the trailer and my defender all the way to the back. Hope this helps. ps welcome to the forum. There are a lot of members on here that know pretty much anything you need to know about a defender

A little late to the party, but wanted to give my two cents. I installed the shock spacers and it raised my Xmr about 3 inches. Axle angle changed a little, but I have yet to have a problem with angle or length. I did the spring spacers because I figured that the axles were designed to handle the full travel of the stock shock. So if I never travel passed the full length of the OEM shocks I shouldn't have a problem...? attached is a picture of the spacers installed with the OEM 30 inch cryptids standing over a 5 gallon bucket. Total of 18 inches of clearance Just for fun I also attached a pic of the clearance with camso tracks and the lift.

I have not found a solution to unlocking the rear diff on the 2018 Xmr yet. I am currently on the fence about selling it and getting into a limited instead. It is quite the hinderance to not be able to unlock the rear diff while driving down the road, around town and in the yard. Has anyone heard of an aftermarket locking/unlocking rear diff to put into a defender?

I also prefer 91 clear when it comes to my "toys" only because some of them don't get used as often as they should. It seems to be a lot better if anything sits for a period of time. I believe when ethanol fuel evaporates it leaves a residue.

I believe I installed .75" spacers on the back. The front and rear wheel base is within .25" now

I went with the Corbin Custom as well. VERY easy to install and so far everything works as it should.

What I did with my light bar is put it on the roof in the front of the machine, being careful to not protrude into the wiper when the windshield is up, and drilled a hole right through the plastic roof into the steel of the roll cage, stacked washers between the roof and the roll cage so I could snug it up with distorting the roof and then using bolts to tighten everything down.

I guess that depends what year your defender is... I've heard the newer models have the forward A arms. Not sure if the Xmr's had the new A arms though. On my 2018 Xmr I have 31" tires and had zero rubbing even with the shocks set in the softest setting. I would have to believe you could go to a 32" tire and probably just adjust the preload on the shocks if they do rub.

Let me first begin by saying I have zero experience with adding both the spring spacer and the bracket spacer. I am only chiming in because I too was thinkin about going this same route. After installing the spring spacer I feel like the higher angles of the axles might be putting the strength of the stock CV joints to the max, and the length of the stock axles might also be pushed to the limit. So, with all that craziness going on in my head, I convinced myself it probably was not the best idea for reliability reasons. I also would like to hear any feedback from anyone else that has any knowledge or experience in doing this.

Just throwing my 2 cents in. I also went with the glass and have had zero issues riding with it either wide open or 1/4 open. I do, however, ride a little less aggressive on trails or through the trees with it wide open just for peace of mind. I have driven down the road, around the top end of the machine, with it wide open and had no issues. With all that being said. I do agree that the can am glass flip out windshield is a little pricey, but someone once told me "buy once, cry once" with the idea that I would be buying multiple carbon windshields because of scratching. Hope this helps.

Yup, just take the CVT intake and the engine intake and remove the offset pipe so they are both level with the CVT exhaust

As far as I know, the shocks on my Xmr are the same as the XT's

I have zero experience with changing the springs, but I did put the super atv spacers in my Xmr and that raised the ride height about 2-3 inches. The reason for doing so was because when I was on a trail ride I felt like I was bottoming out a lot, but thought I couldn't be because I wasn't even pushing it that hard. When I got home from that weekend I noticed the stock shocks only used about 2 inches of the total shock travel. After putting the spacers in, the entire travel of the shock is being used and it increased the ride height. As for the ride quality, I don't think it really affected it too much... I also took out both sway bars at that same time the spacers went in so I'm not sure if that was the reason for not noticing a huge difference in ride quality. I know this really wasn't an answer to any of your questions, but just wanted to give my input if your questions were aimed toward getting more height out of your suspension.

I've been in the mud a handful of times with my 2018 Xmr and have yet to have an issue with overheating or a plugged radiator... the majority of the mud that I have ridden in is in the woods and mostly water with a little bit of mud, but I did have a weekend in so called "skeg" where it was flying everywhere, driving really hard and the temps were around 70 degrees. Hope this helps

I think Polaris is the only brand with a reverse chain. As a 2018 Xmr owner, I would recommend a 19' or newer Xmr. The ability to unlock the rear end is huge I've noticed. Not so much a big deal while driving off road, but if you ever want to use it on black top its kind of a nuisance. Just my honest opinion. Other than not being able to unlock the rear end, the Xmr is a great machine. Has gotten me through everything I've aimed it at.

Was just cruising Craigslist and found this. First I’ve ever seen like this. This would allow for the narrower trailer that will pull better. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/trb/d/delano-formula-7x14-utv-enclosed/7113115977.html

I had a very similar issue with mine. Wouldn't go into reverse. Didn't make a grinding sound or anything. That happened at about 5 miles. The dealer took it apart and said they couldn't find anything wrong, put it back together and have had zero issues since.

My honest opinion, I would go the full 8’ width route. If you have any type of door on your defender it’s pretty hard to get out once it’s loaded or get back in to unload it. The worst part is when you load it after a trip it’s usually filthy when it gets put back in the trailer and when you get home, and it’s time to unload, you better have old or dirty clothes on because you’re going to rub down the whole side of that dirty machine trying to get to the door. As for the length, it really depends what you all intend to bring. If it’s just your machine going in it, 16’ is about perfect. A defender takes up roughly 11’ and then you’ll have the rest for gear, fuel or coolers. Hope this helps

https://kombustionmotorsports.com/products/turbo-performance-can-am-defender-hd10-turbo-system just saw this the other day actually, but I have yet to hear of anyone installing it

Awesome. I really appreciate the help. Thank you

Does the 2019 Xmr rear diff fit in the 2018 Xmr? As for the 6x6, could you have (2) unlocking rear diffs? Obviously very expensive, but would that be an option?

Does anyone know if it is possible to get parts or the whole assembly for an unlocking rear diff in the 2018 Defender Xmr? I didn't think it would bother me that much to have a solid rear diff, but lately the wife and daughter like to go for rides around town and its all asphalt. It is definitely more of a burden when I have the 31" street tires on. It almost make me not even want to drive it on asphalt. '

Those are all really good ideas. I'll definitely be looking into all of those things. Thanks for the help.

That sounds like a great idea. With all those hard surfaces in the cab it does get kind of loud. I was looking at buying the OEM doors, but I think after buying the wire harness needed for the power windows and the price of the doors I would have probably been in that $4k-$5k range. I also wasn’t sure how they would do submerged in water since this machine does need to cross beaver ponds from time to time. it’d be nice to have the full cab machine like yours for my every day stuff around home and then have the Xmr at the cabin for the mud. Maybe if I win the lottery hahaha

Finally received the window kit for my doors and just thought I’d share with everyone my thoughts and a few pics. First off I thought the hinges were kind of a weak point, but after some fine tuning and minor adjustments they are working just fine. Originally I had the doors adjusted with too much pressure/stress on the hinges causing them to bend and pull apart. Second, I thought the doors were defective because they had flown open while trailering. After a few more adjustments I think I have solved this issue. The striker plate was too far away from the striker. I had it set this way because it was easier too open for the kiddos. My bad. Third, you are getting a full AND half hard door with a glass window for only $1,500 + shipping. The window is stationary. After all is said and done, I would recommend this door if anyone else is looking for a good half door and full in the same door. That being said, I have zero experience with OEM doors so I can not say either way which door is better. IMG_2352.MOV