RossO

I do usually carry a hatchet and machete, but I think I'll definitely be bringing the chainsaw as well. I really appreciate every ones comments! Makes me feel a little bit better about going into the snow covered wilderness with 2000lb machines on tracks that were never intended to be on tracks haha

Thanks for the reply! You listed all great things and most of the things listed I would have never even thought of. Thanks again!

Alright all, a buddy and myself are wanting to go winter exploring the 1000’s of acres of state land in northern Minnesota. We both have defenders, his being a HD10 XT Cab and mine a HD10 Xmr with a cab and heater. He is running Apache tracks and I’m running Camso. My question is, what do we absolutely NEED to bring with to help get us out of any situation we find ourselves in. Thanks

I agree with Andy. As long as your trailer can handle the weight and you have enough weight on the tongue of the trailer, its fine. One draw back to having such a tight trailer is when you go to tie down your machine, you're basically running the straps straight down and when the straps are straight down they have more of a tendency to unhook as the trailer and machine bounce down the road, but if you had tire nets that problem is solved.

Tracks definitely change the way your machine operates. I thought the same thing when I put tracks on for the first time also. I thought that it almost takes the fun out of driving it because it was so much more noise in the cab and seemed like I was barely moving for how high the RPM's were, but you eventually get used to it and everything is fine.

I don't think its that because it already has the "3 mode" switch for work, normal and eco. I'm assuming it is a rear diff lock or "turf mode" switch, but being that it is a 2018 Xmr it does not have the ability to have a unlocking rear diff. Not too concerned about it. Just thought someone on here might be able to tell me exactly what it was for.

I’ve noticed on mine that if the center vents on the dash are open the defrost vents have very little air coming out of them. If the windshield starts to fog I just close the center dash vents and push all the air out the defrost vents. As for the lower vents, I thought they had pretty decent air coming out of them. I think it depends a lot on how much vent line you used. I cut any and all excess vent line making it a shorter run from the heater core to the vent.

I recently installed an Inferno heater in my 2018 Defender Xmr and while I was under the dash I noticed an extra rocker switch plug from the main harness not being used that was just zip tied out of the way. Does anyone know what this would be for? It already has the 3 mode switch and front diff lock switch from factory.

I just installed an Inferno heater and am now wondering what type of coolant I should get to refill the cooling system? Anybody know off hand?

I actually have an Inferno Heater on the way haha But I was still thinking of keeping this setup around since I can still be heating the cab without the machine running

Here is my set up for heat. It is the Mr. Heater golf cart heater and a cheap fan from Amazon. I drilled a hole in a sheet of plywood to slip the heater into and screwed the fan down behind it so it can blow towards the windshield. Clears the windshield right up if it starts to fog. The plywood basically just sits on the arm rest. I screwed some pieces to the underside to wedge into the frame on the back wall that holds the back rests.

My 2018 Defender Xmr had kind of a similar issue... at less than 10 miles on the machine, I was out for a ride on the local roads and about 2 miles into the ride I was going to turn around. I put it into reverse and it made a grinding sound then fell into gear, when I went to put it back into high it didn't move. I put it in low and it moved, but the CVT was not shifting like normal. The RPM's would almost hit the rev limiter, but the machine was only going about 15 MPH. I stopped and tried to shift back into high, it went into high this time and everything seemed to have worked itself out. When I went to back it out of the garage the next time it wouldn't go into reverse. No grinding noises, no nothing. It would move in the forward gears, but absolutely nothing in reverse. This was all way before covid so getting it into the dealer was no biggie and I brought it in that same week. When I got to the dealer, surprise surprise, it went into reverse and everything seemed fine again. I left it there anyways and they took everything apart, but noticed nothing to be wrong. They put it all back together using the same parts and it has been just fine ever since. There is now 1,900ish miles on it with zero issues so far. No idea what the issue was, but I still am way better off with a BRP compared to the competition. There is no way any other brand could do what this thing does. I do, however, think that the higher end Defenders do not have the same bells and whistles as the higher end Rangers. Can Am could definitely improve in that location, but I think the Can Am build quality is still second to none. Sure you're going to have a machine hear or there that'll have a major issue, but I think the same goes for any brand. Anyways, just my two cents. Hope the next machine works out better for ya.

Depends on how much traction you want. I would say for average use you do not need chains on all for tires, just the back tires.

This might sound stupid, but is it in "eco mode"? When mine is in eco mode it will not go over 45is mph. Good luck.

I have a 2018 and has not faded, but it is also never kept outside... sorry, I'm not much help. When wrapping it though, I think it would be easier to wrap with the panels on the machine. I attempted to wrap mine and I took the bed panels off only to realize that they probably should have been left on to make it easier for stretching and cutting the wrap. Good luck.

I agree with Arctic. Once the windows are rolled down, they pretty much become half doors anyways. I'd go with the Limited. Better to have and not need than to not have and need.

Can Am glass flip out windshield is probably the best option all around. Crazy expensive up front, but you'll never have to worry about fine scratches, from cleaning it, when you're driving into the sun and you can always add a windshield wiper. I've had the glass flip up on since new in 2018 and have yet to have any problems in any sort of riding, mud, dust or rain. Hope this helps. Good luck.

I believe the Xmr flares are just the standard "sport fender flare". Which means they aren't as wide. To install them, they come with screws that just screw into the plastics. There are spots in the plastics that the screws are supposed to go though, so, you do have to be a little precise when installing.

if you are just going to 30's, you shouldn't need the forward A arms. I'm not positive, but I think you could get about a 2" lift just by going to the Elka shocks and stiffening them up... if you don't go with new shocks, the spring spacers or "pucks" for the stock shocks is what I did on mine and it raised it about 3". I think the ride is a little more stiff by going this way, but it was more important, for me, to have more ground clearance. If it was in the budget I would definitely go with the Elka shocks though. I've never had them, but I've heard a few times on here how great they are. Good luck. Welcome to the forum.

Also, I just googled "off road audio that accepts usb" and a Rockford Fosgate radio popped up that says it has a USB input. It is a Rockford Fosgate PMX-0

Ah, gotcha. Does your defender have the storage space next to the shifter? If so, there was a guy on this forum awhile back that built a bracket for his 1din radio. He posted pics of in "LCD mount" topic I think.

I believe you could get an adapter to go from USB to the 3.5mm input. Not %100 on that though.

SSV Works has a Universal Bluetooth Rocker Switch Audio System with a 200 watt amplifier that has a USB input and the controller is the size of a rocker switch. $240 for the the package. Just need to add speakers.

30’s will definitely clear with just one of those lift options. I’m pretty sure people on this forum have ran 30’s with stock suspension

My honest opinion would be to get the 6” lift if you’re looking for a lot of lift because your axles are probably going to either be too short once you go that high or the angles of your cv joints are going to be too much, but if you’re just trying to fit 30-32” tires you won’t need much lift if any. All I did was the spring spacer and I clear 31” tires with more than enough space.