DerrtyD750 Posted February 15, 2020 Member ID: 239 Content Count: 9 Reputation: 0 Joined: 10/18/2019 Status: Offline Last Seen: May 2, 2022 Posted February 15, 2020 I am currently shopping light bars and some hunting lights for my HD8. I plan to run some small sound bar or something, but not going all out on a big fancy system my questions are,.. You guys that are running several different light bars and other auxiliary lights,.. are you booking up some type of distribution block to house your power connections,.. or do you just have a bunch of wire harnesses hooked to your battery? I’m also curious about running an additional battery,.. is it necessary? If you have a suggestion or pictures,.. I’d be happy to see them. Thanks all.
Mark Posted February 17, 2020 Member ID: 20 Content Count: 100 Reputation: 38 Joined: 12/31/2018 Status: Offline Last Seen: September 1, 2020 Posted February 17, 2020 Derrty, I put a fuse block and relays in the back near the battery(see attached ). I ran all the power to the roof up the right rear roll cage post. Just run the positive wires behind the battery and into the engine compartment then up and to the right until you find the hole in the roll cage post. You will have to use a fish wire to get them through there. I grounded everything to the frame up in the roof to minimize the wires i had to run up the rollcage. For your switches in the dash, just power and ground them from the under dash terminal. Then run the trigger wire from the switch down and under the floor back to the relays in the battery compartment. I run a 42" lightbar, 2 sidelights, 3 pod lights on the bumper and all 4 headlights and occasionally the rear lights and i haven't needed a second battery. If you have a stereo going that might put you over. Best I can tell I'm using about 350 watts on accessories. I don't know what the computer/dash lights/etc. and power steering are using but I seem to be staying under the stator output of 650 watts on my HD10, not sure what the HD8 has. One of the things I have found is that the amazon/ebay light bars and pods stated watts are way over inflated from what they actually draw. Best bet is to use a meter to check the actual amp draw of each component to see what your using. fuses and relays.pdf
DerrtyD750 Posted February 17, 2020 Member ID: 239 Content Count: 9 Reputation: 0 Joined: 10/18/2019 Status: Offline Last Seen: May 2, 2022 Author Posted February 17, 2020 Mark, Thank you for all of that info, much appreciated. Your install looks nice, that’s about what I had in mind. 👍👍
Eric Posted February 19, 2020 Member ID: 245 Content Count: 13 Reputation: 2 Joined: 10/22/2019 Status: Offline Last Seen: July 12, 2021 Posted February 19, 2020 Were did you purchase the relays and fuse block
Mark Posted February 20, 2020 Member ID: 20 Content Count: 100 Reputation: 38 Joined: 12/31/2018 Status: Offline Last Seen: September 1, 2020 Posted February 20, 2020 Eric, I'm pretty sure one of the relays came with a harness i didn't use and I think I got the others from local parts store. You can get them on amazon. They are Bosch style 4 pin SPST. The fuse block i did get from amazon. I wish I had gotten one with 1 battery connection to reduce the number of wires to the battery to 1 instead of 6. Here is the one I got https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CBGUXN4/?coliid=I4LIITXVRVSUR&colid=15TKOXMPBDU1D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Here is the one i should of got https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1MTF0/?coliid=I2SZAFA9DBISX6&colid=15TKOXMPBDU1D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it You can also get the relays with the fuse built in if you are going to have all your devices on relays and then you don't need the fuse block. Here is an example of that https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBAO1SA/?coliid=I3K4NEZP3K2UOS&colid=15TKOXMPBDU1D&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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