Lack of electrical power....

[A hunt 2 remember]

So, I purchased a 2019 defender xt full cab with heater. I've added the heated seats/wheel/grab bar, a stereo (4 spkrs), gps, and multiple led bars... (4×8", 2×18", 2x24") Two of the 8"  lights are used as head lights considering the stock lighting SUCKS especially after the rancher front bumper was installed. So my question/issue is, the stereo and interior light start to blink in and out.... after a bit of trail cruising. Have others had these type of issues with their rig after adding accessories. I've added the auxiliary battery (30ah) and isolator from the get go. Thinking about replacing the auxiliary battery with a group 27 battery instead of the oem 30ah. 

[Lake]

I am not well versed enough to answer your question but I'll ask you one.

What kind of stereo did you go with?

[A hunt 2 remember]

8 hours ago, Lake said:

I am not well versed enough to answer your question but I'll ask you one.

What kind of stereo did you go with?

I went with a pioneer stereo and kenwood speakers

[A hunt 2 remember]

I put the front speakers in the front upper console where the speaker depressions were and added a couple tweets in the same. Next I added two speakers in the headliner itself. If you pull the liner you will see where they have depressions for the rear speakers. I added a couple screws/washers into the cab top to hold up the weight. Put over 150 rough miles and no issues with the headliner falling.

[A hunt 2 remember]

Here is just some of the wiring I've done. I took the area where they had originally planned the stereo to go into my lighting panel. I've made an access panel that allows me into the power area without pulling the entire piece. I've done some EXTENSIVE changes to the original setup. Dome light comes on when doors open as well as when closed, made made 12v sockets full time hot, and many other things...

[Andystoy19]

You have certainly done a great job on adding electronics but have you measured your total load on the system when your lights start to flash? The fact that you are not blowing any fuses tells me that no one circuit is over loaded. The magneto on these units is 650 watts and since this is a 12 volt system that equates to 54 Amps at 4000 RPM and above. Below 4000 RPM and back to idle there will be less amps available to charge your system. There will be about 50 Amps available if the battery is fully charged which indicates that about 5 amps is used to keep your engine running. Ignition system, (fuel pump, dash and display etc.) but only at 4000 RPM or above.

Your DPS (dynamic power steering) also uses amperage to provide steering assist. It is on a 40 amp fuse and could draw up to 60 amp instantaneously when you peg the steering against the stop. During normal road crusiing it will use very little amps but this load still has to come from the battery or the magneto. The heater motor will also draw amps depending upon the speed setting etc?

If you have a clamp meter clamp it over the positive battery cable and try and take some readings while adding load by turning on more electronics. If your load approaches or exceeds 40 amps you are heading into the area where the magneto can not provide enough currant to power the accessories, the house load and charge the battery. If you don't have a clamp meter or a volt meter that can measure amps to each circuit, use your volt meter to monitor the voltage at the battery(s) to see where it drops to. For example with no load at 4000 RPM you could read 14.4 volts but this number will likely be lower with more load and reduced RPM. If at full load you read 13 volts or less than you do not have sufficient load to charge the battery and have just enough amps to power your total load. Adding a larger battery like and odyssey PC585? will increase your reserve but not solve your total load issue although it will provide currant longer before you discharge it. If you have the original 30 Amp battery and have added an auxilliary 30 Amp battery you should have sufficient reserve already? You did not mention that your batteries were discharging so it tends to point to the problem as too much load on one circuit.

If you can run your volt meter on the circuit that starts to blink and see if the voltage drops below 12.5 volts, if yes your electronics may be over heating because the voltage is too low.(Some electronics do not tolerate low voltage, they overheat). One of the solutions might be to reduce the load on that circuit by putting it elsewhere and see if the problem is solved? Another way to check this circuit would be to turn on the stereo by itself and see if it runs normally or starts to blink? If possible carefully touch the wire from the power source that feeds this circuit, if it is hot you are carrying too much currant for the wire size?  I hope my verbage has not confused the issue but provided you some ideas to check out and find the problem?🤔

[A hunt 2 remember]

50 minutes ago, Andystoy19 said:

You have certainly done a great job on adding electronics but have you measured your total load on the system when your lights start to flash? The fact that you are not blowing any fuses tells me that no one circuit is over loaded. The magneto on these units is 650 watts and since this is a 12 volt system that equates to 54 Amps at 4000 RPM and above. Below 4000 RPM and back to idle there will be less amps available to charge your system. There will be about 50 Amps available if the battery is fully charged which indicates that about 5 amps is used to keep your engine running. Ignition system, (fuel pump, dash and display etc.) but only at 4000 RPM or above.

Your DPS (dynamic power steering) also uses amperage to provide steering assist. It is on a 40 amp fuse and could draw up to 60 amp instantaneously when you peg the steering against the stop. During normal road crusiing it will use very little amps but this load still has to come from the battery or the magneto. The heater motor will also draw amps depending upon the speed setting etc?

If you have a clamp meter clamp it over the positive battery cable and try and take some readings while adding load by turning on more electronics. If your load approaches or exceeds 40 amps you are heading into the area where the magneto can not provide enough currant to power the accessories, the house load and charge the battery. If you don't have a clamp meter or a volt meter that can measure amps to each circuit, use your volt meter to monitor the voltage at the battery(s) to see where it drops to. For example with no load at 4000 RPM you could read 14.4 volts but this number will likely be lower with more load and reduced RPM. If at full load you read 13 volts or less than you do not have sufficient load to charge the battery and have just enough amps to power your total load. Adding a larger battery like and odyssey PC585? will increase your reserve but not solve your total load issue although it will provide currant longer before you discharge it. If you have the original 30 Amp battery and have added an auxilliary 30 Amp battery you should have sufficient reserve already? You did not mention that your batteries were discharging so it tends to point to the problem as too much load on one circuit.

If you can run your volt meter on the circuit that starts to blink and see if the voltage drops below 12.5 volts, if yes your electronics may be over heating because the voltage is too low.(Some electronics do not tolerate low voltage, they overheat). One of the solutions might be to reduce the load on that circuit by putting it elsewhere and see if the problem is solved? Another way to check this circuit would be to turn on the stereo by itself and see if it runs normally or starts to blink? If possible carefully touch the wire from the power source that feeds this circuit, if it is hot you are carrying too much currant for the wire size?  I hope my verbage has not confused the issue but provided you some ideas to check out and find the problem?🤔

No confusion at all. What you describe is EXACTLY my next move!! With ALL the added gadgets I may have a couple doubles up. You are correct though that nothing has POPPED so draw is not TOO MUCH but yet a continuous drain/strain on the charging system. Not exactly sure how this system works, but pretty sure a CUSTOM WOUND stator WILL SOLVE my problems... No matter what, I think I will add a group 27 battery. That way no matter how much I use at night/morning it should charge enough during the day. At least I would think so.... 🤞My local dealer has NO CLUE and BRP said I couldn't add the dual battery/isolator with my heater unit. If fitting/positioning was the reason? I get it!! I mean I made mine fit with what was supplied. But would think a slightly different wiring kit with a position under the passenger dash or in the battery compartment could be totally possible. Thanks for your time and input Andy!!!

[Andystoy19]

The defender limited is advertised as having the 850 watt electrical system vs the 650 watt that the rest of us have. The part number for the stator plate is different in the 2020 Defender parts catalogue than for the 2019. It is 420685638 and just says stator plate whereas the 2019 420685632 says 650 watt, If someone is interested in the new stator they can try and order the new stator plate from the dealer even though it is listed as n/a at this time. If it is the 850 plate is anything else required for the conversion; if not about $360 Cdn is the cost of the 650 watt plate? 🤔

[Andystoy19]

I checked again and the flywheel is different 2020 is 420685704 vs 2019 420685649 and the price of the flywheel is $684 cdn so if both are required that is about $1044 which is pricey $US would be $730 and maybe less with a dealer discount? A good parts person should be able to get the info from Can am for the total upgrade? The 850 watt upgrade should provide an additional 15-16 amps of charge capability at 4000 RPM and above? The can am manual shows both the flywheel and the stator together and calls the combination a magneto.😉

[RangerBob316]

I'm in the same boat as "A Hunt 2 Remember". Having a Defender is new to me. I'm use to quads and Mavericks. My Maverick I could throw as many electrical components at it and it never gave me an issue. 

Issue #1:

On my Defender, I have an overhead light bar, a light bar at the front winch, the Can-Am overhead audio package.

I've found that I cannot run them all at once with the stock headlights. 

How do I make them all work together? Or is this impossible at this time?

Issue #2

My other issue is I have the Can-Am dual battery setup that I swear is messed up. With the Defender running, the secondary battery reads 12.X volts - you'd expect to see it jump to 14.x volts. 

I had the dealer put that kit in for the very reason knowing I was going to want multiple lights running at night, with the stereo. 

Any ideas how I can test the kit?

[A hunt 2 remember]

4 hours ago, RangerBob316 said:

I'm in the same boat as "A Hunt 2 Remember". Having a Defender is new to me. I'm use to quads and Mavericks. My Maverick I could throw as many electrical components at it and it never gave me an issue. 

Issue #1:

On my Defender, I have an overhead light bar, a light bar at the front winch, the Can-Am overhead audio package.

I've found that I cannot run them all at once with the stock headlights. 

How do I make them all work together? Or is this impossible at this time?

Issue #2

My other issue is I have the Can-Am dual battery setup that I swear is messed up. With the Defender running, the secondary battery reads 12.X volts - you'd expect to see it jump to 14.x volts. 

I had the dealer put that kit in for the very reason knowing I was going to want multiple lights running at night, with the stereo. 

Any ideas how I can test the kit?

Nice rig!! But if you find the answer? Let me know... while your bumper does not block out your lights. My rancher bumper blocks better than 50% of the OEM lighting. GREAT DESIGN CANAM!! So what i have found is by not using my OEM lights other than in town on road driving where i can easily swap hi/lo beams but ither than that? USELESS!!! I found that ALL my forward facing leds...(54" in total, 4x8" 1x22") use 2 amps more than the OEMs and a WAY BRIGHTER AND CRISPER!!!