pmbaseball24

Welcome aboard!

I haven’t seen this mentioned in any posts yet... maybe it has been and I missed it. Sorry if this is a repeat. There are actually 2 different sets of fender flares made for our machines with different part numbers. The “sport fender flares” are the smaller ones. The “fender flares” are the larger ones. I took a screen shot of the factory accessory catalog that shows pictures of both of them. The regular fender flares seem to be geared towards the guys that run tracks due to the extra width. The sport flares seem to be geared toward regular tire setups. I guess there could be some cases that the regular flares could come in handy if you ride in muddy conditions, etc... hopefully this helps someone looking for new flares for their machine. I ordered the sports for mine and I love them.

I have no idea. I didn’t have anything like that with mine. I just ran a 10 gauge wire for power and ground and landed the wires on the lugs under my front “hood”.

Not sure what this looks like? I just had to run a power wire to the head unit. Can you send a pic of it?

No problem. Let me know how it goes!

Red line shows the general route of the power wire. The red circles are the 2 plastic rivets I removed. Tilt that panel up and you can stick your hand down to the end of the roll cage and feel the small hole at the bottom of it. The tube is hollow all the way to the top.

Noticed the same on mine. Shot it with an IR gun and it was at 470 degrees after a short, easy ride with the engine idling.

Not sure how much help this will be, but here it goes.... I installed the front roof liner and did a different head unit and speakers than what can am offered from the factory. I believe it was a Jensen unit that you could get from can am. I can’t speak to how that unit and speakers will install on the factory roof liner, but that part should be pretty straight forward. I did a template for the head unit and speakers and dremeled the holes out. I didn’t run into any issues when I did a dry run install of the roof liner before I installed the audio equipment. Bracket on the Upper left, right and center and it went in perfect. Are you having any issues with the roof liner itself? I ran my power cable down the Inside of the drivers side part of the roll cage. There is a small hole from the factory on the inside of the cage right around where it makes the turn to the flat roof part. I drilled this hole out a little wider than it was from the factory. Next, I tilted up the hood and removed the 2 plastic rivets on the drivers side hood plastic. This allowed me to slightly bend the plastic up enough to get to the bottom of the roll cage. If I remember correct, there are 2 large bolts at the roll cage where it connects to the frame? I took a 3’ piece of bailing wire and fished it up a hole in the cage close to where these bolts were. Fished the wire all the way up, pulled it out the hole I drilled earlier with some needle nose pliers and attached the power cable and pulled it back down. sorry to be a little long winded. It took some time to figure out where these holes are from the factory. Once I found them, it wasn’t too hard to complete. I was trying to make the install as clean as possible and not run any exposed wires outside the cage. If you have any other questions, let me know. Hope this helps!

Snowtower, Thanks again for your help on the wiring. Same colors landed on the same leads as yours. Works perfect. No delay at all when you press the button. Not sure why some reviewers of that unit said it was delayed when they pressed the in/out. Have a great weekend!

Hey JDK. Sorry, I sold these yesterday.

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S3 springs

If this is the correct part number: 715002423 amazon has it listed at 53 pound ship weight

PM sent

I have read a few of the reviews and they mention a time delay after pushing the button and when letting go. Is it noticeable?

Thanks for the help! Should have the new controller on Tuesday.

I’m really impressed with them both on and off road. On road, huge difference and very smooth with much less noise. Off-road, pick your line and these things dig right in. I’m running 13 psi on all 4.

Factory springs taken off machine when new. 2 front springs and 2 rear springs. All springs measure 15” in length. Different part numbers on front and rears. Asking $180. Will check on shipping cost once I have a zip code to ship to.

Realized the 2020 defender doesn’t have the plug in for this controller. Asking $15 shipped.

Measure twice and cut once! Realized once I bolted these up to my rear wheels they were too wide for what I was going after. Brand new except for one install. Asking $50 shipped. Paid $90 on amazon.

1/4/20 update: Added the 4 gallon rotopax mounted direct to the rear portion of the bed. Pretty straight forward install. Everything lined up perfect for drilling the holes straight through the bed without hitting any of the extra plastic molded on the outside of the bed. Added the low beam auxito led headlights. high beams are on the way and will be installed in a few days. A couple things I came across with this install... first of all, they are designed with no fans, but have a large heat sink on the back. Fired them up last night and they are super bright but they get hot!!! Measured a temp of 175 degrees on the heat sink with my IR gun. Is this normal? I don’t know. The directions for install call for a specific orientation of the led chip to be in once installed. When you install them in our headlight assemblies, they don’t line up properly. To fix this, I had to remove the tiny Phillips head set screw on the plastic mounting piece and pry it loose. It’s just held in with a little super glue it looks like. I dry fitted them into our headlights and got the orientation correct (aluminum housing faces north to south, LED chips face outward East to west) marked them, a little JB weld overnight and we are good as new. No use for the set screw after this process is done because you have lost the hole. Overall, very happy with the brightness of these versus stock. I just hope the heat doesn’t become an issue. Also added some prototype puck style spacers that S3 powersports sent me. Big shout out to those guys. Daniel has been super helpful. I installed the spring kit from S3 a few weeks back. After settling the new suspension, the rear actually measured about 3/4” lower than the front. I had the spring adjustments turned all the way “up” in the rear and all the way “down” in the front. 3/4” was as close as I could get it. I wasn’t after lift with this spring kit, more looking to improve ride quality and get rid of body roll. I definitely wanted the rear higher than the front when unloaded to account for cargo load weighing the rear down a bit on a consistent basis. I reached out to those guys and sent them some pictures and measurements of what was going on. Pucks showed up and they fit in perfect once I got the springs compressed. Reinstalled the shocks, adjusted the spring retainer up to the third notch this time, settled the suspension and now the rear is sitting 1/4” higher than the front. Very happy with this outcome and a huge shoutout to those guys.

After swapping out the stock 28” tires for 30” tires, I immediately developed a little squeak or metal/metal noise primarily when in turns. I figured the additional weight of the wheel and tire were adding additional wear on something. Seemed to happen at low and high speeds. I figured it may just be the brakes since the machine was new. last week I ordered a 30mm wheel bearing grease tool from EPI. I was doing some rear suspension work, so I figured it was the perfect time to hit the bearings while I had it torn apart. As my research suggested, I found these bearings to be very under greased from the factory. I put 45 clicks with a battery driven grease gun in EACH bearing before any came out the seals. Same story with both front bearings. This job was fairly involved because it requires the complete removal of all 4 axles from the wheel hubs. I know some of the grease tools for different machines are hollow in the center, but I don’t think that will work with our defenders from what I can see. After everything was re-greased and the suspension was put back together from the other project, I took it for a spin. Zero squeaks or metal/metal noises. problem solved and peace of mind that I shouldn’t have any premature bearing failures. I would recommend this 2-3 hour project to anyone. You’ll be amazed at how much grease your bearing will accept. I’m assuming some of you guys have tackled this project in the past. Did you have the same “lack of grease” in your bearings?

Would you mind sending me a picture of how you have it wired in? Much appreciated! Order has been placed with amazon. Thanks again!

Nice looking rig JDK! Welcome aboard. I’m new to this forum as well. Seems like a bunch of good guys. Good luck with the future projects!

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