pmbaseball24

Thank you! Been a while since I have been on here. Yes, the tires clear with no rubbing at all. Let me know if you have any other questions!

Assuming all the bushings are installed and all the bolts are snugged down, did you check the sway bar connections? A loose sway bar connecting rod can give you a nice clunking noise when hitting bumps.

Happy to report back that this is an official fix! For me at least. Riding conditions couldn’t have been any dustier than they were this past weekend in the white mountains here in Arizona. We are getting a late start to monsoon rains this year in the desert. The old brakes would have been screeching and screaming within a few minutes of riding. An entire weekend of riding passed and I only heard them a few times (very brief) when applying the brakes. We will see how the longevity is over time. Hopefully they hold up well. Anyway, I know a few of you were interested to see how these pads worked out, we have a winner!! Hope you all have the same results!! Happy riding and stay safe out there.

Decided to give the EBC carbon X brakes a shot. I couldn’t take the squeak anymore. I’ll be the first to admit, I thought the race driven pads were the answer. After the first ride, I was wrong. They were almost as bad as the factory pads. I know the riding conditions with the fine dust out here in Arizona don’t do brakes any favors in the “quiet” department, but damn. These things are awful. When the machine is washed and clean the race driven ones were at least tolerable. Keeping my fingers crossed that these EBC pads are the answer. I have a nice dusty trip planned over 4th of July weekend coming up and I’ll report back! After the initial test drive after install they seem to be super quiet!

It does interfere if it’s a taller cup. I figured with the location of the mount, you either lose the cup holder or the flip up storage bin. A smaller mug or 12oz can still fits fine under it.

I thought I had the answer a few months back, but the brake squeal has come back to haunt me. I put on a set of race driven pads. Loved them at first, but after a few rides it was right back to where I was in the beginning. In the fine dust and silt that we have here in Arizona, it makes the brakes sound awful. All my buddies out here have Polaris machines and they seem to be quiet. Has anyone tried the EBC brakes? I emailed the guy that owns Swampdog Offroad. He makes all brass pads and here was his response. Super good guy by the way, he was extremely helpful. For any of you guys that are mud riders, check him out.

Thanks plumber!

Ram Wireless charger added.

I wanted to add a charger so I could leave my phone screen on constantly when navigating trails with the app I use. Ram mounts just released this wireless, waterproof mount so I went for it. Figured this beats stopping at every trail intersection to figure out where we are headed next. Having a charged phone isn’t a bad thing either. I’ll include screen shots of the parts I used. Pretty easy install, took about an hour start to finish. Ram has a million different mounting plates and arms so the options are endless here. I decided to use the factory drilled hole on the roll cage instead of going into the dash plastic just for a little extra strength. I think these mounting holes may be for the door kit, so it might not be an option for the guys with cab models. install was pretty straight forward. Drilled a hole in the storage compartment behind the dash, and drilled another hole right behind where the ball sticks out of the cage. Added 2 grommets for good measure and fished the wire through. Pulled the supplied 3’ usb extension cord into the usb charger in the compartment and it’s all done! There is a little push button switch that is tied into the wireless charger. This button is either always on or always off. It does not need to be pushed every time you start the machine up to turn the charger on. The bottom support piece is adjustable for different phone heights and to avoid hitting power and volume buttons on your phone. The X Grip is pretty awesome, super sturdy and definitely won’t let your phone go. It’s spring loaded so you pinch one side and set your phone in. The little rubber grippers are tapered so it can’t fall out forward. Really cool design. All finished with my comfort mods for now. Steering wheel and charger. Going to take a few week break (maybe, haha) so my wife doesn’t kill me.

Already posed about this on a different thread. Wanted to update my build with a before and after picture. New steering wheel from assault industries. Two small side noteS, this wheel is about an inch smaller in diameter than the stock wheel. Not a bad thing if you ask me. The “standoff” of the new wheel plus hub adapter is almost identical to the “all in one” factory steering wheel/hub adapter. I wasn’t sure how this was going to work out because the factory wheel is recessed a few inches back to where the splines are. New adapter + new wheel is almost the same. I don’t know if they are designed to finish at the same dimension as factory wheels or if I just got lucky. Either way, just wanted to point this out if anyone is wondering! Wireless Ram charger up next!

Felix, Power ties into the power bar behind the ignition. Yes, it uses the factory tail lights as turn signals. Running and brake lights still work as normal. A Hunt, I sure did put them facing front!! I love the look of all 4 of them on the front plastic. If one ever fails or comes disconnected there is at least another one for backup. Only vehicles or trailers over 80” need side clearance lights to my knowledge. My unit is 70”. I have received a lot of compliments on the look of it. Sorry you think it’s wrong or think the manufacturer is wrong. Let’s try to stay positive! There is enough shit going on in the world right now to have any more on here. Great group of guys on here helping each other out with projects!

Well guys, UPS showed up a day early! Everything fit like a glove! Hub adapter slid right into place. Thank god. I was a little worried about the hub adapter fitting inside the black plastic covers that fit on the upper and lower portions of the steering column but it just cleared it! Phew! I never get this lucky. For anyone looking to do this mod, you need to get the hub adapter for the (Polaris ace/Ranger/defender) on assaults website. Fits the splines on a 2020! Got everything bolted up and took it for a spin. Great feel and there is a noticeable difference in how ridged the steel framed wheel feels over the stock.

I went with the Corbin custom works kit and added the horn kit along with it. I was impressed with the fit and finish of it. These guy did a nice job with it from the wire insulation, waterproofing, etc. everything was perfect length, no wire trimming. Came with factory matching toggle switches. Truly plug and play. No tie ins to the ecu, just needed power and ground.

No problem! A little piece of advise on whichever ones you go with. There is a whole mess of different length screws and bolts that come with these kits. Lay them all out before you start drilling. Instructions were decent, but I drilled one of the holes too big in one of the areas and had to get creative. Good luck with your project!

I would say they are about 2”-3” out from the stock fender well. Hope these pictures help!

I went with the sport on my 2020 lone star. Big fan of them. I think the general consensus on this site is this for the differences: If you run tracks, full flares are almost mandatory. If you ride in a lot of mud/snow I think the full flares could be good as well. It depends on your riding and what look you are going for. Since we don’t see too much water/ mud out here in the desert, I went with the sports. I like the the look of the sports too, just my opinion. I have some pictures posted on my build page of the sport flares installed if you want to take a look!

One step closer to completion! I ended up going with the assault steering wheel. Just an FYI.... anyone looking to upgrade their steering wheel, you will need to get a special puller of some sort. There is a video on YouTube of a guy backing the main 24mm nut off and just giving it a good pull. This was on a can am X3, not sure what year it is. Anyway... this guy either has hulk strength, or they didn’t put locktite on his model because I was pulling on this thing after soaking it for a night in penetrating oil and no such luck. The “special puller” I was asking about in the previous post won’t fit because our wheels don’t have the female nuts embedded in them like other brands/models have. I’ll include a picture of this tool in the bottom just so you know what NOT to get. After purchasing a bearing puller and separator kit off amazon, it came right off this morning. I checked my local auto parts stores to see if they had any to rent and I struck out. New tool added to the garage. Thanks amazon. I had to stack both pullers behind the wheel to get the proper clearance around the center plastic on the wheel. Smaller one to get the proper diameter to snug up to the back of the wheel, larger one to clear the steering wheel. Start cranking down and a big POP! Off she went. Can am definitely uses some thread locker on the splines of these wheels. No way to pull it off yourself. Just wanted to give a quick write up of how I went about it in case anyone is looking to swap out the wheel. I only have one more hurdle to climb, assault wasn’t able to verify fitment of their hub adapter to the 2020 model. He thinks they are the same spline and shaft dimension as earlier models. I’ll know on Tuesday when everything shows up and update this thread. Fingers crossed, because this could kill the whole project. for now, here is a picture of the wheel I decided to go with. As well as a picture of the puller kit I used. Happy Sunday!!

This is the route I went and I’m very happy with the results!

Wow. I’ll keep searching and see if I come across anything.

You’re welcome and good luck with the repair!! I have to ask... what happened?!?!

Found these for ya.... looks like they ship in 3-6 days? Hope this helps! Sorry to see your rig is down. https://www.partzilla.com/product/can-am/706002775?ref=e21333b82c3131891b0c1f5f1ba589a6dba46daa

Nice! I’m assuming this is a factory can am part? Didn’t even think to check into factory accessories for it. Did you need to buy the special puller to remove the stock steering wheel?

Looking to see if anyone has swapped out the steering wheel. Plenty of info on the X3’s and RZR swaps, but haven’t found anything on our defenders. I’m assuming our machines still require the hub adapter? Looking at assault industries, but open to any other brands if anyone has any input. Thanks!!

Yep, just layed the rotopax flat in the bed so the brackets are not actually carrying any weight, more just keeping it held upright. Marked it all out and started drilling the holes. I believe I made a run to ace hardware because the bolts that came with the kit were either too long or too short, I can’t remember. I also added 3 bolts on the top to keep the rotopax more stable. The bed rail towards the cab has a slight tilt to it and I wanted the rotopax at a 90 degree angle from the floor of the bed. Not necessary, but to achieve this, it requires shimming the flat part of the pack mounts up against the bed rail. I used some left over black nylon spacers from a tv mounting kit to get it right. Hopefully the pictures help! The rotopax is a little swollen. Only 111 degrees out here in Tucson today. Good luck!!

Used one of the dlx mounts and one of the lox mounts.