RagDude

Thanks - good to know. My (hopefully last) coolant leak was at one of the air bleed screws where coolant hose connects to block and every time I rode I could smell the hot coolant odor. Had to make my own little gasket washer to make it stop and it seems to be working for past 600 mi. Without the gasket, I could never tighten the screw enough to stop it leaking by, plus, the inset is plastic so you can over tighten and strip the whole thing.

Nobody asked, but... I needed to replace my Defender's damaged/torn side door netting. After seeing the OEM replacement door pricing, I started to look for net fabric for a DIY repair project. The best source I was able to find was from a company called Obie (www.OrganizedObie.com) in Elkhart, Indiana that supplies mesh and net fabrics in bulk as well as pre-formed recreational storage solutions, etc. I got a couple of yards of their polyester hex mesh net (p/n: TA97FRUV) and along with some black nylon exterior rated thread (Wal-Mart) I replaced the damaged mesh panels on both doors in just a few hours using a home sewing machine (with a #16 needle). Ripping out the old stitching from the door strapping was the hardest part of the job because the manufacturer used an adhesive to hold the mesh and straps in place prior to sewing all the parts together. I also then traced out the panel openings onto craft paper to make cutting patterns for the new replacement mesh. I used about a 3/4" seam allowance all around. The replacement mesh is heavier and both flame and UV resistant and seems much tougher than the original. I doubt I will ever put solid doors on this machine, so this has been a great solution for me.

Per Can Am, use a 50/50 mix of an aluminum engine compatible antifreeze to distilled water. Undiluted glycol based antifreeze will freeze at about -9 deg F, but a 50/50 solution can go to -35 deg F before freezing (apparently the two fluids inhibit each other's atoms from hard bonding at low temperatures). On the other end, pure water has a higher specific heat than a pure glycol based coolant meaning water will absorb more heat without raising its temperature even though a pure glycol based coolant will boil at a much higher temperature. So, the same 50/50 mixture in a 15psi pressurized system is a good compromise as it will go to around 265 deg F before boiling while pure water at the same pressure would boil at about 250 deg F. All this and much more can be found on heat transfer fluid manufacturer's web sites if you're interested.

Dealer kept for 2+ weeks and did not find it. Unfortunately, the dealer's back yard is slam full of machines needing service/repair and they will not spend much time isolating noises. They submitted a Techline case to Can Am for all the good that will do. I have the buggy back and the noise is (I believe) getting worse. When it breaks I suppose I'll know what it was.

Yep, sounds like venting noise from the gas tank/cap on warm days. Gets worse when hot.

I've started having the same or similar issue with my '21 6x6 Defender. The clunk/knock changes with speed and seems worse at low speeds only because engine/tire/wind, etc noise masks it at higher speeds. At some times it's worse than others. I've checked/done everything I know and still can't isolate the source except it sounds like "slop" in the drivetrain. Some say it's associated with a helix gear in the clutch system and not to be concerned with it. Plan to contact dealer service department and see if they can do anything with it.

I used it to mount one of those round switches for some rear facing led lights.

Yeah, the factory parks the winch connector in an unused socket (PF7 I believe?) as shown in the photo to keep it out of the way (and to hide it from users ;-)) until needed. Just release the connector latch and pull it out and mate it up to your remote control wire connector and you should be good to go.

Ordered my Defender 6x6 on 5 Feb '21 with an expected delivery date of early April. Picked it up on 2 July '21. Just got to be patient despite the frustration.

I've got the Seizmik Versa-Fold windshield. So far it seems to be good quality. Hinge fold is in my line of sight and takes some getting used to but doesn't bother me much anymore.

For some reason (I guess to keep it our of the way when not in use) the factory plugs the winch remote connector (SWWRC) into the empty socket labeled PF7 on the firewall area under the hood. Just unplug it from PF7and plug in the remote connector. The connector is hard to locate because it looks like a connection that should be there and there is no label and the splice into the control wire harness is hidden behind the firewall.