Steelslinger

Does it have the same amount of slop going into the other side of the carrier? 

Not sure how it would wear out as those surfaces do not 'run' on each other. They are held static during rotation, only wear would be in and out movement.

I haven't, but can you access the glass through that little lower black panel?

It doesn't look like taking the whole inside panel off would be too difficult.

Awesome, glad it was an easy/cheap remedy!

Bert69 - Be careful, 2020 and up models all came with arched a-arms in front, whereas I believe 2019 and earlier only the XT, XT-P and XMR models had arched arms. 30" might not be much of an issue, but bigger might.

Booter - Check the starter relay, I've read where people had ones that were frozen. Maybe pull it and bring it inside for a day or two. Let it thaw and dry out.

Check with EPI Performance for some different springs for the clutch. I bought a pair of clutch springs for $60 and it helped compensate for the 30x10s I put on,  plus it improved throttle response

Only thing I have heard of is XMR trans or portals.

I think there are a few shops working on the trans for these things.

Same, went with the Beamtech's. Ordered them went I got the machine home.

2019 Max XT Cab model is what I have.

LED lights in stock housing, I have the Beamtech H11 Fanless in mine ($30 a pair, two pair needed for Hi's and Lows)

S3 Springs, don't sag as much as OEM, a bit better handling and you can get around an 1.5" or so more ground clearance.

I went to 30x10x14 tires, Quadboss QBT 846. Tough tire, decent in most conditions. DOT compliant 8 ply ATV radial tire that is inexpensive.

Also, OEM tubular rock sliders/nerf bars, not the aluminum form fit ones. I got mine through my dealer. They have saved my doors and cab corners countless times. Worth every penny.

Fender flares are nice for cutting some of the mud/snow/water flinging up off the tires.

Kilmat/Dynamat type insulation on the inside backwall to cut dust, heat and noise from the engine. Would recommend that even with the carpeted panel that comes in the Limiteds (I have both and it definitely cuts heat and noise in the cab, can talk to the people/kids in the back seat without shouting).

For a stereo, I went simple, Infinity PRV-250 stereo head unit (AM/FM, Bluetooth, USB) and a matched set of four Infinity 6.5" Marine Speakers, used rear speaker supports from C-Werks (Jamie Connelly, can find him here or FB Defender groups). All in about $650 including speaker wire and hidden antenna. Its decent audio for trail riding and plowing.

No experience with tracks. I can't justify the cost of them enough for my uses.

No insight into the bearing issue, but love that picture.

If you haven't done it already, I'd use something like Kilmat/Dynamat/Noico insulation first, then put the liner/acoustic panel over top that.

Call Turner and ask them what's up. May want to reach out to Catvos too about axle length with that much lift.

Good to hear it was a simple fix and you got it back up and running.

You will have cold start and running/staling issues if you use 91 octane in these machines. They were designed and programmed for 87 octane. I use Stabil during the winter in all my gas cans as I don't burn through it as fast as I do during summer.

I've read that that is an O2 sensor code. But most have said the MAP (MAF/T) sensor could be the culprit, also check plugs and fuel pressure. 

New bracket. Its going to stay in the raw until spring at this point, if it survives.

Old bracket with damage from being folded a few times. I didn't get any when it was folded in half at a 90° angle, but you can see the fatigue and distortion. I used the actuator and lever to straighten it enough to finish.

So, after two decent size plow events, there was a failure. In the bracket. I had figured if there was a weak point, it would be there first. Two factors contributed to this issue: first, the design of the bracket and second, the thickness of material used. Due to the length of the actuator, I had to make an offset style bracket which put the pivot hole for the actuator 6" past the last attachment hole. This created a fair amount of leverage of force anytime I was actively moving the blade angle to the passenger side or putting pushing force on the drivers side of the blade. Compounding that was the light weight thickness of the material and scant side wall metal left in the making of the bracket. Ultimately, it was that force, having the blade angled to the right and hitting the dense snow piles, coupled with the light weight construction of the bracket, that allowed the bracket to fold in half at the rear mounting hole.
Thankfully, I had the forethought to retain the manual angling stop lever by using a retaining clip to hold it out of the way instead of removing the lever all together. It allowed me to finish my plow job that night.
I rebuilt the bracket with a few changes. Same material, as it is what I have at the moment. I'll look at possibly making another bracket with thicker material when I have time to hit the steel yard and have more time to fabricate. I increased the side wall height to add support and also welded in some 1/4" x 1/2" flat bar I had to stiffen it up more. Also, drilled a hole in the bracket under the pivot hole to add another mount bolt to the push tubes if I find its moving again. Additionally, if I know I am going to be slamming into snow piles to move them back, I'll pull the pin on the positioning lever to lock in the blade.

I'll give ya one better, Part numbers and install info for 2019 and prior models.

That's one expensive t-shirt! But it would be a cool story getting one, lol.

Kinda like the T-shirt Matt's Offroad Recovery used to give when they rescued you. The intro to each recovery video is "So we got a call...". The shirts said 'So I made a call..."

I cut off the end and made a new one that was longer and a slightly different curve

HD9 has smaller heads and is basically detuned to lower horsepower vs. the HD10. Someone on the Facebook groups had posted a list of all the part numbers that were different.

To me it sounds like an electrical problem. Like the power is intermittently cutting out. Possibly broken wire or maybe even key switch/ignition contact is bad.

Running 87 octane or 91? Should only run 87.

Try running some injector cleaner through it and make sure your air filter is clean. Also check spark plugs. 

Get the fuel pump pressure checked. This will let you know if it's the pump or not.

Look around the brake pedal