DewMan

That would be nice for the right need but the price seems excessive for what amounts to a couple feet of wire, a few inline fuse holders, a short section of heat shrink  and a hand full of connectors. You're definitely paying for the convenience of not having to assemble the relatively cheap parts yourself. 

Update:
I've replaced the OEM Yuasa battery with a new topped off Odyessy PC1200, which I was wanting to do anyway, but unfortunately it did not solve my slow cranking issue. The hunt for the cause continues. My next step will be to follow the cranking circuit to see what I can find. maybe I'll get lucky and find a loose nut other than the one behind the steering wheel. 😁

If anyone else has run into the slow cranking issue with a known good battery. I'd love to know what the issue ended up being. 

Thanks for your time and attention.

My forum search was fruitless so  I thought I could learn from from everyone else's experience here. Any help would be appreciated.

The issue I'm testing the battery for is slow cranking when engine is cold and even slower cranking when the engine is warm almost since day one. I have had no other issues with it.

The machine was bought new and is garage kept and has just over 100 gentle miles on it in the 1.5 yrs I've had it. All OEM engine/charging/starting parts including the battery. The issue existed prior to the install of rarely used aftermarket lights and stereo.

The issue has finally annoyed me long enough that I devoted some time to trouble-shoot it.

Using an electronic battery tester, hooked up between Negative & Positive terminals with a cold motor( as cold as 80 degree temps allow), I ran the following in vehicle tests:

1) Battery test - Passed 

98% charge

415 CCA

12.99v

internal resistance 7.15mOhms

2) Cranking test - LOW

9.31V while cranking

3)Charging system test - Passed

Loaded 14.27V

Unloaded 14.3V

Ripple 70mV

The question I have is "Is my ASSumption that since I read the low cranking voltage between the battery terminals that the battery is bad?" or do I need to check the cranking circuit  further for loose or corroded connections?" I've already confirmed the battery terminals themselves are tight.

If you're still reading this I thank you for your interest and patience.

OK, excuse my ignorance, but how are you able to turn a corner/curve at more than 2mph without tipping this top heavy beast?

FYI: Still delayed on the 2022 as well. 
I logged on to ask this same question.👍

1 hour ago, Andystoy19 said:

You have a nice machine but if I read the spec sheet right it comes with a 650W charging system which limits the amount of amps or watts you can draw. 650W/12volts = 54 amps which is only available above 4000 RPM.

You have to take off the house load that keeps the machine running like: fuel pump, ignition system and ecm, dash guage, power steering, rad fan, lights etc. and it becomes obvious that there is a limited amount of amps left. You should decide what accessories you might want to run at the same time before you wire everything in and find that your stator can't keep up, especially at night. Electrical load management may allow you to get by but others have run into dead batteries and no way to start the machine out on the trail.

Some have tried adding a second battery in parallel;(even an automotive sized one) although this keeps you running longer, they still have to be recharged by the stator, a plug in charger, or solar etc. Good luck with the project and I hope this info helps.🙂

Thanks for the response @Andystoy19.Yeah, I'm aware of the shortcomings of even the 850w stator... why no one makes an aftermarket stator that can handle higher loads is beyond me. I'm pretty sure there's a missed market for them.
Prior to putting in a second battery I'm looking at replacing the current battery with an Odyssey Extreme PC1200 which is, as I understand it, a hybrid standard/deep cycle battery for more CCA (540) and more load capacity. It's a squeeze but it'll fit.  And if I still have issues I'll then look at getting a second battery with isolator etc as well. The lights will normally only be used for short durations of 5-10 mins  getting from point A to B. 
 

I've read all the existing  related threads I could find as well as googled wiring options.

I've decided to do the following to power all three power hungry items. Please let me know if I'm there's a better way to power all of this. 

The light bars ( 50" 450w Front and 22" 180w rear) are mounted to the front and rear roll bars under the sport roof.

I've installed the 200w Stereo in the front roof liner overhead #715003098 that I'm installing.

The total load for all three is right around 77amps if all run at the same time, which I can't see me doing very often if ever, but I want to wire it to handle the load just incase.

My plan is to run an 80amp fused 6 gauge wire from the battery directly to the front roof liner overhead. I'll use a secondary fuse block mounted behind the stereo liner that will be Key-on powered via a 120amp relay wired just before the secondary fuse block where each light, rocker switches and the stereo will be wired directly to. Light switches will be mounted on the stereo roof liner's existing knockouts. 

As for routing from the battery to the overhead, I'd like to wire it inside the A pillar preferably down to the dash then through the trans tunnel to the battery located in the under deck storage area unique to the Pro. I'll run the key power for the 120amp relay from behind the dash at the existing accessory powered lug.

I'm assuming I can just ground the fuse block to the roll cage? 

Any thoughts on how you'd do it it differently? Or if I'm doing anything that doesn't sound reasonable or dangerous?

Thanks for your time and attention. It's much appreciated. I'll get pictures and post them as this progresses.

1 hour ago, Steelslinger said:

I run an Infinity marine unit and has a USB drive, and it'll read mp3 or wma from it.

https://www.rocktheboatmarinestereo.com/html/62503.html

This checked all my boxes and I ordered it from Amazon for USD $175, It's power rating was for 4ohm speakers unlike the Rockford Fosgate's 50w @ 2ohm rating so I shouldn't need an amp. 
 

Much appreciated @Steelslinger . You just cost me $200 but saved me a ton of work.😁👍

On 8/2/2022 at 10:57 AM, RossO said:

Also, I just googled "off road audio that accepts usb" and a Rockford Fosgate radio popped up that says it has a USB input.  It is a Rockford Fosgate PMX-0

Yep I looked at that one.... per the owners manual:
"USB Operation The USB port on the back of the device is for firmware updates and charging devices only. Using it as an audio source will not work."

Edit: after talking to Rockford Fosgate tech you need at least a PMX-1 or higher to get USB playback.  But they rate their 4x50w per channel at 2ohm speakers. That would only be 25w RMS at the 4ohm Kicker speakers I have unless I fork out even more $$ for an amp to go with it. For the extra money that would cost, I'll be happier keeping my Pyle Marine single DIN head unit even though it will require additional work to install.
I appreciate the efforts RossO.
 

5 minutes ago, RossO said:

I believe you could get an adapter to go from USB to the 3.5mm input.  Not %100 on that though.

From what I've read those require external power and only support Udrive connections.. not a generic thumb drive of MP3/FLAC files unfortunately.

I appreciate the replies regardless 👍

23 minutes ago, RossO said:

SSV Works has a Universal Bluetooth Rocker Switch Audio System with a 200 watt amplifier that has a USB input and the controller is the size of a rocker switch.  $240 for the the package.  Just need to add speakers.

Unfortunately the Universal Bluetooth Rocker Switch Audio System only lists the USB port as a USB charging port but unfortunately not a thumbdrive reading port.

29 minutes ago, Steelslinger said:

Why not get a marine radio vs. a 1 din car radio?

I listen to my music from a memory card/thumb drive. I ordered a Pyle marine boat radio which comes in a one DIN format that has slots for both SD/USB. I couldn't find a radio in the other round format marine radios that supported either type of input.
If anyone's aware of one that has support for SD/USB storage play, that would be awesome.

Edited for clarity.

3 hours ago, dkdesign said:

Congrats on finally getting the new ride Dewman! Enjoy. 
do you have any liner or front plastic liner on the roof? If not that will be your first purchase or fabrication. 

Thanks.

I have the front plastic Stereo liner but I'm going to need to rework the middle metal bracket to make room for the width of the one DIN radio.

I finally took delivery of my XT Pro a couple days ago. It barely fit on the 12ft trailer. I had to removed the ramps and put them in the bed of the Defender. The Defender's 113"/287cm wheelbase was almost as long as the Jeep GC's 121"/309cm wheelbase.

In hindsight I should have backed it onto the trailer to better distribute the weight. I couldn't take it much over 60mph before it would start to sway. Luckily it was only a 50mi/80km trip.

Now to figure out how to install a one DIN marine radio into the Can Am front roof liner. Anyone seen a thread where that's been done?

My apologies if this has already been covered but I was unable to find an existing thread on the subject.

I'm not finding any service manual available for my soon to arrive 2022 Defender Pro XT. Considering there are no major updates from the 2021 model is there any reason not to just get the service manual for the 2021 model?

Thank you for your time and attention.

DewMan

Update on the wait.... It's almost over! 

Ship Date is expected to be July 7th. I should be able to take delivery from my local Can Am Dealer about a week to 10 days after that.

That will make the total lead time for my order approximately 90 days.

Thanks everyone for tolerating me during my time of anxiously waiting. 😁

Thanks everyone for the Welcomes. 
Am I alone in having issues deciphering the Can Am accessories options? The BRP website it lacking in details on many of the options.

One example is that I'm unable to tell if both the "Higher Mount Receiver Hitch" and the "Lower Front Receiver Hitch" are both compatible with the factory XT front bumper. I'd like to install both for versatility.

Another point of confusion is that I'm trying to figure out how to do the multi-mount winch configuration on the XT Pro I've ordered. If I'm reading the options correctly  I'll need the "Higher Mount Receiver Hitch and the "Removable Winch Mounting Kit".

The "Removable Winch Mounting Kit" says to "Use in combination with the Multimount Winch Harness to quickly and conveniently relocate a front mounted winch to the rear of the vehicle".

Is the Multimount Winch Harness included with the removable winch mounting kit or is it something additional I need to purchase to make it all work? I can find no listing for a "multimouny winch harness" anywhere.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I got confirmation from the dealer today that my order was accepted and I can expect delivery in July/August 2022. 🙂

I've put down a deposit on a 2022 Defender Pro XT (black) so my soon to be local dealer will order me one. I'm being told 1-3 months for delivery. Not sure how accurate that will be.🙄 I'm gonna guess any discounted pricing on them is just wishful thinking? I'm told the MSRP will be going up again soon taking the place of the "surcharge" currently being advertised. They need to call this "surcharge" what it really is, "extra profit due to short supply". 😠

In a week I'm moving from this congested Florida metro area to a rural 80 acres in Central Ohio. The Pro will get lots of use while making the rounds while maintaining the property.

After looking at all the brands, the 6ft bed and the pass through storage unique to the Pro, along with the reputation of the defender, made the decision a no brainer in my mind. I don't think I'll ever think "This is too much bed space." As nice as the Pro Limited is, I just can't justify the cost difference between the two models.😁 The price of OEM options are stupid expensive. Luckily the aftermarket options are plentiful. 👍

For the price of this thing it should come with at least a fold down wind screen. The net doors and nanny seatbelt  speed limiter will be the first things I'll "fix" on it. This will be followed shortly thereafter by some mirrors. The rest I'll wait and see what it needs as I put it to work. I'm guessing upgraded/add-on lighting will be needed at some point.

Should I order the aftermarket "world's greatest Belt", along with the clutch tool  immediately or are blown belts primarily the issue of people who are riding hard? Anything else I need to get to take home with my new Pro when it arrives? Are Oil filters a readily available part or should I stock a couple incase they're hard to find?

I look forward to joining the rest of the Defender faithful soon.

If you're still reading, Thank you for your time and attention.

DewMan