A hunt 2 remember

I use a set of cheap chocks when I winch. As far as it goes, my clamp on brake on my 2019 outlander would bleed off and let Buck roll off down the hill. YIKES!!! 

50 minutes ago, Andystoy19 said:

You have certainly done a great job on adding electronics but have you measured your total load on the system when your lights start to flash? The fact that you are not blowing any fuses tells me that no one circuit is over loaded. The magneto on these units is 650 watts and since this is a 12 volt system that equates to 54 Amps at 4000 RPM and above. Below 4000 RPM and back to idle there will be less amps available to charge your system. There will be about 50 Amps available if the battery is fully charged which indicates that about 5 amps is used to keep your engine running. Ignition system, (fuel pump, dash and display etc.) but only at 4000 RPM or above.

Your DPS (dynamic power steering) also uses amperage to provide steering assist. It is on a 40 amp fuse and could draw up to 60 amp instantaneously when you peg the steering against the stop. During normal road crusiing it will use very little amps but this load still has to come from the battery or the magneto. The heater motor will also draw amps depending upon the speed setting etc?

If you have a clamp meter clamp it over the positive battery cable and try and take some readings while adding load by turning on more electronics. If your load approaches or exceeds 40 amps you are heading into the area where the magneto can not provide enough currant to power the accessories, the house load and charge the battery. If you don't have a clamp meter or a volt meter that can measure amps to each circuit, use your volt meter to monitor the voltage at the battery(s) to see where it drops to. For example with no load at 4000 RPM you could read 14.4 volts but this number will likely be lower with more load and reduced RPM. If at full load you read 13 volts or less than you do not have sufficient load to charge the battery and have just enough amps to power your total load. Adding a larger battery like and odyssey PC585? will increase your reserve but not solve your total load issue although it will provide currant longer before you discharge it. If you have the original 30 Amp battery and have added an auxilliary 30 Amp battery you should have sufficient reserve already? You did not mention that your batteries were discharging so it tends to point to the problem as too much load on one circuit.

If you can run your volt meter on the circuit that starts to blink and see if the voltage drops below 12.5 volts, if yes your electronics may be over heating because the voltage is too low.(Some electronics do not tolerate low voltage, they overheat). One of the solutions might be to reduce the load on that circuit by putting it elsewhere and see if the problem is solved? Another way to check this circuit would be to turn on the stereo by itself and see if it runs normally or starts to blink? If possible carefully touch the wire from the power source that feeds this circuit, if it is hot you are carrying too much currant for the wire size?  I hope my verbage has not confused the issue but provided you some ideas to check out and find the problem?🤔

No confusion at all. What you describe is EXACTLY my next move!! With ALL the added gadgets I may have a couple doubles up. You are correct though that nothing has POPPED so draw is not TOO MUCH but yet a continuous drain/strain on the charging system. Not exactly sure how this system works, but pretty sure a CUSTOM WOUND stator WILL SOLVE my problems... No matter what, I think I will add a group 27 battery. That way no matter how much I use at night/morning it should charge enough during the day. At least I would think so.... 🤞My local dealer has NO CLUE and BRP said I couldn't add the dual battery/isolator with my heater unit. If fitting/positioning was the reason? I get it!! I mean I made mine fit with what was supplied. But would think a slightly different wiring kit with a position under the passenger dash or in the battery compartment could be totally possible. Thanks for your time and input Andy!!!

Here is just some of the wiring I've done. I took the area where they had originally planned the stereo to go into my lighting panel. I've made an access panel that allows me into the power area without pulling the entire piece. I've done some EXTENSIVE changes to the original setup. Dome light comes on when doors open as well as when closed, made made 12v sockets full time hot, and many other things...

I put the front speakers in the front upper console where the speaker depressions were and added a couple tweets in the same. Next I added two speakers in the headliner itself. If you pull the liner you will see where they have depressions for the rear speakers. I added a couple screws/washers into the cab top to hold up the weight. Put over 150 rough miles and no issues with the headliner falling.

8 hours ago, Lake said:

I am not well versed enough to answer your question but I'll ask you one.

What kind of stereo did you go with?

I went with a pioneer stereo and kenwood speakers

So, I purchased a 2019 defender xt full cab with heater. I've added the heated seats/wheel/grab bar, a stereo (4 spkrs), gps, and multiple led bars... (4×8", 2×18", 2x24") Two of the 8"  lights are used as head lights considering the stock lighting SUCKS especially after the rancher front bumper was installed. So my question/issue is, the stereo and interior light start to blink in and out.... after a bit of trail cruising. Have others had these type of issues with their rig after adding accessories. I've added the auxiliary battery (30ah) and isolator from the get go. Thinking about replacing the auxiliary battery with a group 27 battery instead of the oem 30ah. 

The button too the lower left is a shutoff switch when I have it stored. I have it wired to a constant hotwire to the auxiliary (30ah) battery setup. But think I may be headed to a group 27. Having issues when stereo, heater/seats/wheel/grab bar, gps, and lights + led bars (4×8" & 1×24") and occasionally 2×18" bars.... after a bit the stereo starts to blink out and the dome light also goes.... going to try and reconfigure the system an see what happens....

I put a single din in the dash drop just too the side of the shifter. Added 2x 5.25 and tweets in original location. Also put two in the headliner itself. Sounds GREAT!!!!

I've actually wired my original dome light to door switches. That way when the doors open the light comes on. Problem at first was there was no power when doors were closed. Added a mini switch and another lead. PROBLEM SOLVED.... 

I will have to say though, I've done things to mine that even can am brp said couldn't be done....  Well, I CAN, I DID!!!, AND I MADE IT BETTER THAN STOCK!!!!!! AYE.....

47 minutes ago, Mark in Colorado said:

Nice looking rig - especially the side light bars.  Pretty original.

They actually mounted in original bolt holes on the doors. This shot is before the A pillar lights were added. When the doors are open and the back light is on, it really lights up a chunk of real estate. Great when setting up duck blinds

Here is one shot of "Bear" with a buddy. We were out rollin' around the mountain and came across this firepit. 

Hello, my name is Joe, and I'm a Can Ammer.....

Well,

Hello.... My journey here was not a cheap one and doesn't look to be leveling out any time soon. 😉 Started off this bow season with a new 19 Outlander "mossy oak edition" . But after season, while dropping it off for its initial service I FELL IN LOVEWITH "BEAR"!!! He was sitting there with his windshield and "FULL" doors just proud as could be!!!! Saying hey Buddy, remember getting to you spot on those 28 degree days when it was hailing???? NASTY huh? Well??? NOT IN ME!!!!! But when it came time to look, it had ELECTRIC windows..... AND A HEATER!!!!!! Oh yeah, I was SOLD!!!! Problem is, I had just bought the Outlander and upgraded trailers for it.... BUT OH WELL!!!!!! I'M IN!!! So we do the dance and I end up buying "Bear" (the defender). So I go home, drop off "Buck" (the outlander) and head back to pick up Bear. UMMMM...... Oh $#@@##$^!!!!!! it doesn't fit in the door of the trailer...... DOH!!!!! 

So, now I am on a mission to get it where I want it to be (overall foot print and heigth) BEFORE I look into another trailer!!! I've added my lighting and such above already and 500+/- miles on it and feel it needs a few extra inches of GC.... Already bent a rock slider bar.... Glad it went on already!!! 😉 But so here I am as deep as I am in my 2013 Ram limited longhorn into my defender..... 

Glad to be here and share with my other addicts,

JS