Jerry

Todd;

i am waiting on a cord to wire my GPS where the factory radio normally would go overhead. I am going to attach using HD Velcro. Once I get the components, I will post a pic. 

Recently installed these QuadBoss 30” tires and so far, quite impressed. They are much quieter on pavement. 

I was told by the Dealer that the CF moto is made in the same factory as the KTM motorcycles. Found that interesting as I always though the KTM was a great bike. 

I compared the CF to the defender at a Dealer that had both and believe their market share will likely grow but I was not willing to take the chance. I knew the quality from Can Am and Polaris but wasn’t willing to save a few grand only to be disappointed later. 

On 4/9/2019 at 5:44 PM, John Edwards said:

I have 30" tires on my HT. As a result, every bumper I've seen would limit my bed dump ability. I think someone should come up with a narrow (between the tires) version with a winch...Would pay $$$.

These are 30” tires and my bumper clears by about 1/2”. 

On 4/7/2019 at 9:30 PM, DonXMR said:

Has anybody put 4 point harnesses in their defender yet and if so did you have to install a bar for them to mount or where you able to just install them. I had a little oops moment over the weekend and had my kid hanging form the normal seat belts so I’m thinking of going to harnesses to make sure they stay in there seats. I have a 2018 XMR 

Here is the harness I used in my Cobra. I didn’t use the crotch piece. https://pitstopusa.com/i-17303689-simpson-platinum-5-point-sprint-car-latch-link-ratchet-restraint-system-left-side-ratchet-steel-adjusters.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp17303689&sc_intid=17303689&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIup_Ov67X4QIVxLfACh2kHAIGEAQYCyABEgKuCPD_BwE

I’m thinking there has to be a location on the frame somewhere to attach. 

My best guess is it for an optional accessory such as a heater. 

Found this data for fluids on Amsoil web site which you may find useful for knowing capacities of the various fluids.

https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/utv/2018/can-am/defender-hd10/976/us-volume/

Welcome LazyLunker. All you guys with the XMR’s gotta stop putting those pics on!  I’m thinking I need another machine when I see how sharp this are😉

On ‎3‎/‎31‎/‎2019 at 3:19 AM, Ben said:

Nice work. I have just purchased my 1st Defender and have a LED light bar to install (not from Can-Am). Looking for some instructions on the following:

(1) How to connect into the existing wiring to add more lights and switches. I am not experienced at auto-electrical so need some of the basics explained. Any ideas on where to start?

(2) How to dismantle the dash to get access to the wiring etc. Just got my Defender so not keen on breaking the dash yet!!

My light bar is not from Can-Am so I don't have a part number to look up instructions. Do you have a reference I can use? 

PS: is there a "mechanics" manual which provides more detail than the owners manual?

1st question Ben, did you get a wiring harness with your light bar purchase?  The harness will look like the link here https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-40A-LED-Work-Fog-Light-Bar-Wiring-Harness-Kit-ON-OFF-Switch-Relay-Cable-KIT/372385548066?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144.

You really need a relay and fuse with the switch.  This type of kit in the link above has the relay and fuse prewired for you. (keeps it simple)

Question 2)... to remove dash where switches are on the center panel (see pic), reach behind and push on panel and it will pop out.  (FYI, if you have a heater, it needs to be loosened and pivoted out of the way to get to the electrical block as seen in Mark's pic above).  There is a black plastic cap on that covers the terminals (one black terminal is negative or ground referred often as "-" and two red which are positive or Hot referred to as "+").  You will want to connect your ground wire from the switch, to the black wire terminal.  The red wire will go to the opposite red wire on the block (both the black and red you want to hook to are the outside terminals on the block.  The center one stays hot with the key on or off)

When wiring your light bar, see the pic below that has the blue banner regarding "rocker switch.  The diagram there shows which wire goes from the switch to the relay or power.  Since you will be wiring to the terminal under the dash on the Can Am to the hot that only comes on with the key, you can combine the two terminals on the switch that are red on the rocker switch diagram, and also combine the two ground (black wires) on the top of the switch.  These two wires (and usually a yellow wire which goes to the light) are in the harness kit with the relay as seen in the image below of the back side of the switch.

The switches on the dash need to be cut out to accept the switch.  I would recommend that you buy a matching switch (Amber) https://www.ebay.com/itm/SBS-LED-Light-Bar-AMBER-Can-Am-Maverick-Commander-Defender-Rocker-Switch/132498409339?hash=item1ed985477b:g:ZwIAAOSw9vlafK5Q:sc:USPSFirstClass!54025!US!-1

If you use the switch locations to the left of the steering wheel, you simply need to fish your wires over the top of the steering column,

Hope that helps.  let us know if you have more questions.  The first one is always a bit intimidating.

I’ve only had my Defender for a couple months now so haven’t removed them. I have adjusted the passenger side door to fit better. I don’t believe I will remove them for summer. 

I removed the doors on one of my Polaris machines and it is more enjoyable to drive but the dust from the road gets the cab dirty. Some of the threads on this site talk about half doors which would give that open feeling but keep a large amount of the road dust from entering the cab. 

On 4/9/2019 at 9:42 PM, Mark said:

Nice Job Jerry.  That taper on the ends is a lot of extra work but makes it look custom.  You must also have something in mind for that small lighted license plate spot.

Thanks. I didn’t get my license plate numbers back from WI DNR yet. If you ride on road or trails in WI you need a plate and in SD it needs to be lighted. The license plate kit was from Corbin Custom Works (same place I got the blinker and horn kit). 

You could build your own. I have I think I have less than $90 in steel, lights, and lighted license plate.  I still need to add a trim piece above bumper to fill the gap. 

On ‎11‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 5:31 PM, Dragoon said:

• +1 - Defender fit and finish
• +1 - Defender ingress and egress
• +1 - Defender side nets
• +1 - Defender egonomics, flip up seats and storage
• -2 - Defender electronic throttle at slow speeds

My humble opinion regarding my previous two machines, 2017 Polaris Ranger 900 EPS and a 2017 Polaris Ranger 1000 Northstar Edition with Polaris Glacier poly plow..

Polaris Pro's...Quite a bit of accessories available, Cab fit is tight and seems to keep the dust out better than the HD-10 cab.  Seems to have more pep than the HD-10.  Year end rebates attractive. Easier to remove doors. Steers easier than Can Am. Color matched panels on doors look classier than mismatch on Can Am.

Polaris Con's...Noisier than Can Am, feels unstable at highway speeds, frame rusts quickly at open tube in front of rear wheels on Rangers. Fit and finish not as precise. Not comfortable for feet under the seat (heels hit the seat support).  Non cab versions have open holes all over under the dash and in cold weather, the air freezes your lower parts. The hinged type windows on the doors are terribly inconvenient. No wheel well liners like Can Am. Shift patterns not as positive when engaging gears.

Can Am Pro's...Factory heater is more useful than the Polaris.  (Polaris roasts your upper body and freezes your feet).  At 65 MPH, the steering seems very stable.  Oil change is on cool side of motor, On Cab model, flip out windshield with wiper, rear slider, winch, are standard features. Box is heavier duty construction as well as tailgate.  Seems to have more torque than the Polaris.  Tighter turning radius.  Larger diameter tires standard. More room in cab. Flip up seats and fold down center seat/arm rest is convenient.  Storage areas are convenient.  Power windows nice feature on cab model (however my driver's side is slow and labors to go up).

Can Am Con.s... The standard battery is weak.  The Can Am plow mount is harder to connect and disconnect than Polaris and the mount is far from the blade, under the machine. Clutch engaging is noisier than Polaris but not as jerky.  Heater seems to take up more cab space than Polaris (more of an issue for passenger). No AC option.

Summary:  The Can Am quality and value for what I wanted (Cab), was a better fit for me.  I would not object to buying Polaris again but here is what I priced.  2019 Polaris Ranger Northstar with Heat/AC at $25k MSRP plus flip out windshield, rear sliding window, and winch vs the HD10 Cab at $23,799 MSRP with those features but no AC. Keep in mind that the Polaris Ranger 1000 had a model change in 2018 that improved some of the shortcomings of the 2017.

When I purchased the HD-10, the Dealer stated that Can Am recommended 87.  I always had preferred running non oxy, non ethanol 93 in all my engines other than the autos.  I have only run 87 in my HD10, and would agree with Dragoon that the fuel efficiency is great.

On ‎4‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 8:21 AM, Dragoon said:

Welcome, Jerry! Looks like you've got good taste in toys 😎

It's almost Cobra weather up there in WI isn't it?

Thanks.  I might not agree come Wednesday/Thursday if we get the 12" of snow forecasted!

What weight/brand oil are you running in the warmer months and any recommendations on where to buy an oil change kit on line? 

Does Can Am recommend a full synthetic? https://www.amazon.com/4-Stroke-Change-Can-Am-Synthetic-Climate/dp/B07Q3XY653/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=can+am+defender+hd10+oil+change+kit&qid=1554774320&s=gateway&sr=8-5

or semi synthetic blend? https://www.amazon.com/Can-Am-4-Stroke-Synthetic-Defender-2016-2019/dp/B07L43QHV8/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_5?keywords=can+am+defender+hd10+oil+change+kit+5w-40&qid=1554774652&s=gateway&sr=8-5-fkmrnull

Right behind/under the switches is an electrical block that has a black cap that covers the positive and negative connections.  There are three connections on the block.  One is the negative (outside black one), the other two are positive (red ones).  The center is hot even with key off if I remember correctly.  The outside red one is hot with the key on.

If you have a heater, you need to loosen 4 nuts and pivot it out of the way to access the electrical block.  I would recommend adding a second block that is between the heater and the steering column (if you have a heater), just in case you have to add additional electrical switches later.

If you have power windows, the power disconnect plug is tucked in the ceiling. 

The doors are a bit heavy with glass and motor however not terrible to remove. 

This 52” light bar had a 90 degree angle bracket and worked to dril through plastic roof and through metal cross member. Used rubber grommet/gasket that came with light to seal. Turn the bracket under light bar to hide bolt. 

I'm Jerry...New to the site a few days ago.  Live in Somerset, WI now.  Have 2019 Defender HD10 Cab, Hyper Silver.  400 miles last week on new machine up near Canadian border.  Previous machines were 2017 Polaris 900 EPS and 2017 Polaris 1000 Northstar Edition with Glacier plow.  Nothing much left to do on My FFR Cobra Replica build so I bought a new toy.

Sold both Polaris' and went in to buy another Polaris Northstar edition and stumbled onto the Can Am Defender HD10 Cab (Dealer sold both brands) and was impressed at the differences in quality of build.  I had very good luck with the Polaris machines however the HD10 Cab version was exactly what I was looking for.

Last weekend added:

52" curved light bar on top

14" Light bar on bumper

Corbin Blinker kit with Flashers (great kit). https://www.corbincustomworks.com/collections/defender

Corbin Horn Kit

Back up lights

Lighted license plate

Rear view and Side Mirrors

Added electrical block (away from behind the heater) just in case I add something else.

Heater is still dismantled, waiting for one more switch for the back up lights.

Looking to add rear bumper and 30" tires soon. Think I will fab my own rear bumper.  Can't seem to find one I really like.