ArcticHD8XTCab

Break in is 1000km. As far as running tracks, I run the LT360s but on much harder snow then what you would be using and most of the time run at 4500-4700rpm and 20-25km/h Its not fast with the tracks, but it is very torqy. I run in 4wd with rear dif lock. I wouldn't run in 2wd simply because the front tracks could start plowing/dragging depending on weight distribution over terrarin. You want them moving. 

Is the defender the right machine for high altitude, not sure. The turbo mavericks seems to be popular in the powder/high alt environments because they have the power and lower weight for floatation. I have seen turbo kits available for the defender that may help with the elevation issue to run better, but not sure it would give you the top end your looking for to get better flotation. 

So I took this into our BRP guys here and apparently is the PPS sensor. At first I thought this was a throttle body sensor, but apparently its actually part of the gas pedal assembly. Supposedly its to prevent people from flooding the engine? Anway what I am told is the sensor has failed and is starving the machine of fuel not allowing it to start. So I am just waiting for this to come in now...... Frustrating from an otherwise great machine. For some reasons this has not been an issue on the 2019 HD8 XT Cab so I wonder if something changed or if this is a new sensor. But they said they have had a few of these in Defenders and Commanders not starting due to this. 

I posted about the locking doors when they first unvield the new Limiteds in 2022 1/2 . I was lucky enough to get the earlier part of the year and still go the old style doors. 

5 hours ago, Plainsman said:

Did you have skf part #s for front?

 

Super informative thread btw.

They are all the same for the tracks front and rear 1 inner and 1 outer for each track assembly 6011-2RS and 6010-2RS. 

5 hours ago, Plainsman said:

Did you have skf part #s for front?

 

Super informative thread btw.

They are all the same for the tracks front and rear 1 inner and 1 outer for each track assembly 6011-2RS and 6010-2RS. 

10 hours ago, Plainsman said:

Great writeup.  My 2019 tracks have been serving me well.  

I jacked it up and felt no play in the rear, conducting a typical top and bottom of the wheel/track test.  When I checked the front I felt some play on both rocking them top to bottom.  The play felt the same in both.  

Do you have any detectable play in the front? I maybe have 300 miles on them, just for ice fishing .

I have since done the other track bearings and did find the front right track had some play the left side not so much. The wear on them was not even by any means. That said I find the only way to really tell is have someone ride infront of you and if you see the track jitter left to right at all, that's a sure sign the track main bearings need to be replaced. 

Unfortunately I never did. Ended up with a Pro Limited instead as I could never confirm on the 6x6. Would be nice for Can-am to offer something for the 6x6 

I have 2 defenders. a 2019 HD8 XT Cab and a 2022 HD10 Pro LTD. However the 2022 Pro LTD does not seem to like the cold compared to the old HD8. 

2019 HD8 XT Cab (on tracks) 

• Odyssey Battery PC1200 
• 0W40 Winter Can-am Oil 
• Start no problem -30C to -40C

2022 HD10 Pro LTD (on tires) 

• Odyssey Battery PC1200 
• 0W40 Winter Can-am Oil 
• Silicone pad oil heater 
• -35C to -40C hard time starting

I unfortunately do not have a garage, but leave the 2022 plugged in to a trickle charger and the pad heater overnight. Not sure if I am missing something or if others are trying other things. I have had my HD8 cold soak in -40C for days and still fire up. The only thing that comes to mind is the bigger engine needing more cranking power or the AC compressor causes a hard time cold starting? Any feedback or suggestions would be great. 

Thanks! 

A few things I keep in my machine when running tracks: 

• Rubber mallet 
• 24"pinch bar 
  • These are for breaking ice build up around the tracks and CV boots 
• Folding Shovel 
• Breaker Bar
• Spare Tire
• Small Toboggan 
  • If your tracks come off or break you can put the assembly on top of the toboggan.  
• 200 piece stanley tools kit
  • make sure you have torq drives & metric in whatever kit you bring. 
• 2 x 30ft tow strap 
• Jerry Can of Gas
• Tarp 
• Coolant 
• Off road jack or bottle jack with lots of 4x4 blocks
• Coleman Single Burner Dual Fuel 
• Knife/Leatherman 
• GPS with InReach w/charger 
• Phone Charger 

On 1/20/2023 at 11:17 AM, Stubb said:

I want to replace the bearings just as you did  on my 2021 defender hd10 I think the tracks are a 2019 or 2020 do you think these bearings will work. also do you have a # for the seal thanks Stubb

I dont think the Apache 360LTs have changed since from the ones I have seen around here. So I belive it would be the same bearings. As far as the seal number on the tracks that did not fail I reused the seal. On the one that did fail, I had to buy the kit from Can-am. Not sure if there is a part number for the seal itself. 

If you a referring to this seal on the far right of the photo. I don't know the number. Can-am had it in the bearing kit. When I had a complete failure I had to replace it, however the other track I replaced the bearings I reused that back seal and the oring that was under the "Apache 360" cover. 

Hope this helps. 

Was looking around and could not find much for a bed cover or topper that would fit the Defender Pro Limited. I had seen a gentleman on Instagram @defenders.of.the.north built one. It seemed to be of aluminum which I do not have a welder for so I came up with a bolt together solutions that is still lightweight. 

I got some lengths of slotted steel shipped up north. It weighed in for air freight at 39lbs. 

I wanted something that could be removed when needed, so I used 4 Linq connectors that I bolted into the slotted steel.

Now I am just waiting to get a canvas top to put on. The plan is to have a window thru the rear back panel, and zippers on each side of the tailgate with possibly buttons or velcro to hold it to the tailgate. 

I posted about this here. Take a look. 

https://www.defenderssv.com/forums/topic/1300-2020-defender-limited-window-switches/?do=findComment&comment=8023

So I just did this again on my friends machine and figured I would post some photos on how to clean. 

I use a battery terminal cleaning tool that has a wire brush on one side and emery board on the other. Lightly spray on the Nu-Trol control cleaner let it sit for a bit first. You need to clean both the switch and the base. Both get full of carbon I assume from cheap material but also the dust. Hope this helps. Takes about 10min and usually is good for the season/ 

As much as I would like to complain about some of the issues, I remind myself that this model isn't a car or truck. It was originally a no cab model. I had a bit of water in the cab around the door on my 2022 LTD and 2020 HD8 XT Cab. I simply re adjusted the doors as the gaps seemed off. I don't know if this is a can-am issue or is it a dealer PDI issue? But honestly for what this machine can do even at 40k+ Canadian I am super happy with it. 

If you want to keep the dust down get the limited. Night and day difference dust between my HD8 XT and my HD10 limited on dust. Can-am got the weather sealing fixed alot better, and the interior actually stays clean on the limited. It also has a cabin air filter, so when your running the hvac system it keeps the dust out as well. For my riding if I want a taste of the outdoors you flip the windshield up and roll down the windows. 

I have 2 defenders a HD8 and a H10 Pro Ltd both with the flip up windshield. I find I need to adjust and tighten the handle every few weeks and tbh I barley use the flip up option. Has anyone found a fix for this or removed the handle in place of a bracket to keep it permanently closed?

The new doors and windows look nice, but my biggest gripe on them is there is no door locks now, and no aftermarket or accessory locks. You need to go with the clear doors or old style doors to get a locking door. I use my machine around town here during the week and the door locks are nice added feature for me. May not be an issue for others. 

Just built this 2022 Pro LTD

-Adventure Roof Rack 

-Odessy PC1200 Battery 

- Crobin Customs Turn Signal Kit

-Dirty Teeth Racing Remote Start 

- Stereo (Rockford Punch 5" Front Speakers, Velex AM/FM Bluetooth Head Unit) 

-50" Curve Light Bar Front

- 2x 4" Cubes Rear 

- Side Mirrors 

- System 3 Bead-locks with XCR 350 Tires

- Track Mounting Kit 

Had similar issues see my reply on this thread on how to clean them. 

Check out this thread on my experience servicing the Apache tracks: 

I will say if I was going to buy a new machine and set of tracks I would go with the Camso based on two main things:

1. Ability to maintain/grease the bearings. The new design allows you to grease all the boggie wheel bearings and the main hub bearing. The can-am this is not possible.  Check out the video here.

2. Three bearing main shaft that does not require any special tools to maintain/replace on the camso. If you plan on full time running tracks you will probably see similar wear as my tracks running the majority of the year on them. The fact that the main shaft bearings are all the same size, and do not require a press or puller is a plus for me. Also the bolt and washer holding it together

vs the snap ring Can-am uses. 

My 2cents, but after working on my Apaches Camso seem like the better option. 

Tested out the towing capability of my HD8 this weekend! 

GVWR of the trailer is about 3200 lbs.

Had skis made up from tandem flatbed trailer fenders that I got at princess auto.

They took a bit of a beating do to the rocks here. Would be fine on ice for ice fishing trailers or places with more snow fall. I will use some thicker steel and kevlar next time, but it got the job done. Defender towed it no problem in work mode in low gear at about 15km/h an 4800rpm. Not going to set any speed records, but go the job done! 

Not sure if you got an answer on this, I have seen 30” tires on a 6x6. Wondering if you had the measurements of the distance between the hubs? I am trying to figure out if the Outlander 6x6 tracks will fit on the Defender 6x6, would also be able to figure tire size with that spacing.

Finally got the cog in on Friday, so I figured I would post pictures of it finished up. 

First I needed to get the inner racers of the bearing off the main track axel. I used a puller to do this. 

I cleaned that up and then put the bearings into the aluminum track housing. 

Again I have upgraded to SKF bearings, and plan on doing the other tracks when I pull them off for the summer, unless I hear/feel vibration from them before hand. 

I used a bearing press to put them in. I talked to a few people and they said a large socket over the bearing. 

After watching the videos on Camso bearing replacement from UTVTRacks.com I followed the advice and put gear oil in the valley between the bearings. After seeing the camso design and 3 bearing system and ease of maintenance I think on my next machine I will get them instead. 

Then I put the main hub outside on my porch for about an hour in -20 to make it a bit easier to put in. Took a fair bit of force to get it into the bearings. I did take a bearing press sleeve to hold the outer bearing in the casing as I persuaded it thru. I didn't get a photo but their is a washer and snap ring that go it. BRP says the rounded edge of the snap ring faces inward. 

There is a seal for the back of the casing. To get it flush with the casing I used a 45 angled trim removal tool with a flat head to tap it flush. 

Then the cog mounted onto the main axel plate. These are torqued down to 18lbft + 2lbft

There is then 3 tore screws on the rear to put the cover plate on with "Apache 360"on. This I have a bit of a beef with Can-am to even check the bearings you would need to pull the entire track off the machine just to be able to unscrew these. This is not good for preventative checks in my opinion. In the Camso as you can see in the video you can easily check without needed to get behind it. 

Then we put the assembly back into the the track. As I had a failure I never had to adjust tension to remove the assembly. If I was doing this prior to a failure I would just remove tension and replace the bearings without removing the aluminum housing. We put it back in and torqued the 8 bolts on the housing to spec 35lbft + 3lbft 

Overall not a terrible job to do just frustrating, and almost nothing on the interweb about doing these 360LTs so I figured I would share. If doing this without a failure I assume you will need a bearing puller to remove the old bearings. 

On 2/27/2022 at 5:03 PM, AdamPierce said:

We have a 2021 hd8 and I’m looking to get a little more ground clearance and I’m not sure what all of the options are. Puck? Bracket? Looking for a little lift to make room for 28’’ / 29’’ in tires. Like I said, I don’t need much. It’s a ranch buggy that occasionally makes it to the trails. Any recommendations? 

I am running 30" Systems 3s and no need to lift the machine. I have the fronts on the softest pre load, and rears 2 clicks firmer. I used a 1" spacer on the rears so they track with the fronts.