Bsevans5

4 minutes ago, Andystoy19 said:

The springs can be adjusted anytime and they will give you lift in addition to the Battle armor bracket if you choose to go that route. If you look at my defender build lift you will see both together.

The 2x6 or 2x8 lift can and will work if you do the following, cut 1 x 36" long, one at 24" long and one at 12" long.

Align one end of the 2x6" above each other(vertically) and if you need extra lift add some material (1/2" TO 1")at this end between the 1st and 2nd and 2nd and third board. Fasten the boards with a couple of nails or screws to hold them from sliding. You will need two of these; position the wooden (the highest part) lift under the metal ramp edge (to match the tire spread) and some distance forward  to prevent the wood from tipping up once the front tires go onto the metal ramplift.  Measure your wheel base (115.5") and if necessary add another section. ideally you want the metal ramp and this wooden ramp to be close to the length of your wheel base, as the front end goes onto the deck your wooden and metal ramp should start lifting the rear tires so you don't drag the body. Trial and error will make it work and it costs very little.

The canam rock sliders are made to fit the existing plastic on the underside and corner like a glove, they are L shaped to protect the side edge and bottom edge and are easy to rivet onto the body. They aren't needed for this project if you want to save money.🙂

thanks for the input. I might have to try that. I think I'll first make sure I trim any of the hanging plastic off. Then I'll adjust the springs (if they are already on their lowest point). If that's not enough, I may try just the one 2x6 I had before under the ramp where the tires drive up. If that doesn't work, I'll either bite the bullet on the battle armor or try the ramp you are talking about. I'll probably lean more towards the bracket lift as having higher clearance all the time can only help and then I won't have to carry around the wooden ramps. 

Do you have stock size tires? if not, does any calibration need to be done with the computer if someone were to go up slightly in size? For me that is a ways down the road, but thought I'd ask.

1 hour ago, Andystoy19 said:

If you want to reduce your approach angle hangup you can place a couple of 2x6" boards on your deck of the trailer just after the ramp meets the flat trailer, have someone watch as you drive up to see if one board for each wheel is sufficient to reduce the belly drag of the machine. The length of the 2x6" boards must be long enough to raise the front end up enough until the rear wheels have climbed up the ramp high enough to raise the belly of the machine. You can add a 1x4" cross piece under the 2x6" if a bit more height is required for the front wheels. This is a trail and error fix for almost no cost.The deck lift can be screwed down if that is all you haul with the trailer or hauled loose for use only for loading or unloading the defender.😉

Thanks for the input. I just saw some discussion across the internet today about adjusting the stiffness of the springs. I may try that first. 2x6s under the ramp didn't help. I didn't think about putting them up on the deck. I did think about trying 2x4s under the ramp. I will hopefully have some time this evening to test a few things out. Rock sliders would be nice. I'm guessing they sit below the edge, which would require more clearance. The Battle armor bracket is on sale right now for 99.99. I wasn't sure if I should just jump on that or if I should mess with the springs first. 

On 9/21/2020 at 6:06 AM, Dragoon said:

I just put a set of GBC Mongrel tires on my HD10 Max and they made a world of difference in the way it drives! So much smoother than the stock Bighorn tires.

I will need tires as some point in the near future...another cost I don't have money for, but might try to go slightly bigger than stock just to help with clearance while loading and unloading. I'm currently scraping on the back edge of the trailer. I've been researching 2" lift brackets, but some say wheel spacers are needed in the back to keep the springs from rubbing on tires when compressed. I just read today that tightening the springs on the shocks can lift a little. Not sure what the best course of action would be. 

On 9/14/2020 at 7:22 PM, modified said:

Welcome to the forum @Bsevans5 - Congrats on the new ride!  Roof and windshield are definitely some nice mods to add.   

 

Definitely want those. I have a half windshield that came on it. I'd like a folding one. Roof would be awesome. Out of my budget, so I'm researching DIY options now. by brother has a 2018 HD8 max. He made one out of black ABS plastic and u-bolted it on. 

I have a 2019 HD8 max (xt?)...its the base model 2 row machine.

I had to put my leaf springs of my trailer on top of the axle to get enough clearance for it to back up my driveway...now I have clearance issues loading and unloading the machine. It scrapes on the back edge of the trailer. It is a used machine from a rental place and there is some plastic that's hanging down that has been mangled from previous users. Its from where the plastic wraps around the edges and goes underneath where people enter and exit. I will cut that and that should help, but I don't like being so close and scraping. I tried a suggestion of putting 2x6 pieces under the gate to slightly change the angle. It wasn't enough.

I was thinking of 2" lift brackets like the ones battle armor makes. I've read mixed statements about needs rear wheel spacers so the springs don't rub on the inside of the tires when compressed. I don't want to have to buy spacers too. I've read something today about just adjusting the shocks to raise it up slightly. I hadn't seen anyone say anything about that before. 

I'm looking for a general consensus on recommendations. I will use the machine mainly for hunting and family rides on mountain trails. My wife has taken it a couple times to pick up the kids from school (street riding, its street legal) just because its fun and new. I don't know there will be too much pavement riding overall though. 

So:

should I go 2" brackets? Will I be find without spacers? 

I have stock tires...should I just replace with slightly bigger tires when they wear out? will that require any other adjustments or mods?

Should I do something to the springs?

What are your thoughts?

I've seen people talk about this and say that one that is needed is 1" of 1/4 fuel line. I've reached out to the people that posted about the tubing to find out what it is for. I haven't heard back. Any ideas?

I'm having a hard time finding those parts. Where did you order them from?

Hey guys. Just picked up a 2019 Defender Max HD8. It came from a rental place selling off machines at the end of the season. Needs some TLC and some mods. Pretty basic. Been looking at DIY roof options as I don't have the money to spend on the nice stuff. Just wondering what other mods are recommended to get started.

also curious if you have this still

what was the rough cost for materials?

10 minutes ago, Mossyoak said:

The big hose/pipe is your air intake, if you fallow it, it should be connected to your air filter housing at the other end.  The 2 little rubber hoses are vent lines for you gas tank

Thanks so much. With nothing to reference as a good example I was pretty worried. I want to learn this machine as I have others in the past. I appreciate the help 

Hi guys...new defender owner here. Not of a new defender, but the defender is new to me. Just picked the machine up from a rental place selling off machines at the end of the season. My brother bought one from them a couple years ago and had a great experience so i decided to give it a try. So far, not so good. 

It's a 2019 hd8 max. Due to covid and people not traveling, they've ventured to the outdoors and the place said their machines had 2 seasons worth of use just this summer. It's been used for sure. Found a bent tie rod that has created a number of other issues. My big question is about things that seem out of place in the back. I cant find a good picture online of how things are supposed to look but I see a lot of zip ties. There is a black hose above the airbox not connected to anything. Looks warped too. See pic. Also found tubing behind it that looks like it's supposed to be sitting in grooves but is zip tied and one tube dangling with a connector and a tube nearly just dangling. (See pic) do these connect together? What do they go to? Should I be worried the machines been running like this? I'm concerned there are likely other problems I dont even know about or know what to look for as this is the first time I'm seeing it and dont know what its actually supposed to look like.