JCdefender

Mine was regular key. Maybe a “key in a box” would help?

Mine was regular key. Maybe a “key in a box” would help?

What equipment are you using for the remote start?   I used a Compustar CM900 and put option 2-10 to 4, 3sec crank assume start.

7 minutes ago, DefenderBender said:

That's kinda what I was thinking. I cant figure out how to accommodate the take over ? Thanks for the input.

Talked to the guy I did the work for. His shuts down when he hits the brake. No take over. Which would make sense. The ignition doesn’t know they key is in the ignition, other than the tumblers adjusting when the key is inserted to turn the cylinder to the desired position. 

2 hours ago, DefenderBender said:

I have 5 wired my starter and Ignition, and isolated the accessory- remote starts great, however it wont do a key take over ? 

I’d have to check. It’s been a year or so since I did the install. I want to say it didn’t do a take over. 

5 hours ago, Tannertallman said:

Tanner, follow my relay pin guide for ignition and starter. It’s a couple posts up. I labeled each pin and where it should go. You’ll have to use a relay for each, ignition and starter. 
 

then accessory you isolate with a relay,

86 goes to the positive output from the remote starter.

85 goes to ground

87 goes to 12v source (fuse it!)

30 goes to the accessory wire at the key cylinder

87a not used

87 goes to ignition from remote start

87a goes to switch/key side of ignition on vehicle

30 goes to away side of ignition

86 to constant 12v

85 to ground while running from remote start

If that clears things up

Correct. Only those 3 wires. 5-wire ignition and starter, just negative activate the accessory. 

I ran a 10 gauge fused wire from battery under the passenger seat, under floor, and up under the dash. 
 

the ignition and starter wires rest at ground, are interrupted and then powered. So if you power a wire that rests at ground the ignition fuse will blow. 
 

Ignition without the DESS is easy to check ignitions. Use a test light. Accessory has power without key on, once key turned to acc, the wire will lose power (test light goes out). That’s a negative accessory. Ignition wire will have power when turned to ignition and starter wire will have power when cranking the starter. But both wires need to be cut and 5-wired with a relay. Accessory needs to be isolated with a relay. 

I am installing an aftermarket remote start. I understand how to use the system, I need to know more about the ignition set up in these vehicles. 

So I have an 18 defender that I’m going to attempt a remote start. I am a Compustar/ArcticStart dealer/installer. I’ve done hundreds of vehicles, never a side by side.  I’ve pulled the ignition switch out to test ignitions. I’ve got 12v, ignition and starter at the key. If I wire them straight forward it pops the 10a fuse under the passenger seat. (Ign fuse). Does anyone have some insight on how they’ve got a remote start to work?