HD10XTPBads

I've got a 2018 Can Am Defender HD10 XTP. Within a short time, 1st year, it would only start sometimes, or not at all. I can hear the fuel pump turn on, when the key turned on, but it's not pushing fuel to the engine. I've limped along with this for 5 years. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't. These have a Rotax engine which is used in some ultralight planes, which I thought would make a reliable engine in this UTV. However, Can Am has ruined the reliability, with a sub standard fuel pump design. The fuel pump, seals to the tube on the pump unit by a single O-ring, and the two surfaces are not well mated for a single O-ring. Last time I got it to work for about two years by using two O-rings. Yesterday, tried the same fix, cause it's not starting and it's just not sealing up. I know the pump is pumping, but just not pushing fuel to the motor. If they had sealed the pump with a hose clamp, problem would have gone away, no O-ring issue. This is the biggest piece of crap machine I've ever bought. Had a Honda Pilot (FL400) for 15 years and other than replacing fuel hoses, it was trouble free. Plus, sold it for 2500 more than I paid for it 15yrs earlier... If I were rich, I'd set this HD10 on fire, yes, over a 75 cent O-ring, cause it has zero reliability. The O-ring is the key, just need the perfect one, since size matters. I feel like a pit crew, since I've had the sender out so many times. If anyone has used a particular size, multiple times with success, I'm all ears. I bought two assortments having hundreds of O-rings, but of course there are only 2 or so that are close. I'd spend hundreds, if someone had a new fuel pump/sending unit that did not have O-rings. Any perfect fix O-rings sources would be greatly appreciated.

For all you Defender owners..... It's not always the pump....HOPE THIS HELPS OTHERS. Sometimes it wouldn't start the first time, then it would start sometimes after multiple attempts, then it would quit, then it would just crank and not start. Thought it was the pump, bought the rebuild kit and then took it apart, step by step. When I got to the pump, is when I discovered that I'd have to solder the wires and I paused and looked at everything. Good thing I did. I was able to slide the pump out and start inspecting things. So I'll get right to it. The rubber O-ring on top of the pump (seals it to the supply line) had expanded (worn out) in the 2018 Defender HD-10 XTP. Basically, I checked the fit of the O-ring and it seemed loose, so I tried the new one and it was snug. So I put it all together and it works!!!!! Piece of crap OEM O-ring worn out in just three years!!!! CAN AM SHOULD REPLACE THEM FOR FREE-once you know it takes maybe 30 minutes and a cheap O-ring!! TIP- If you hear the pump running when you turn the key on, it likely works, but if the O-ring has expanded and lost it's seal, then you won't get fuel. HERE'S THE TEST ---- Remove the crimp on fuel clamp on top of the sending unit, pull the fuel feed line off the pump unit/sending unit. Install three feet of fuel line (hose clamp it on-in case there is pressure) into a gas can, and turn the key. If you have strong (not a drip-should be squirting out like a horse piss'n) fuel flow, then it's not the pump or the O-ring. If the pump runs, but no fuel, I'd bet it's the O-ring. Now I just need to get rid of the check engine light (machine runs great now) Info follows to help, if you proceed down this road..... You only have to remove the air cleaner, 2 bolts behind the passenger seat and of course the hoses, two hose clamps. the short hose on top, I disconnected that and left it laying near by, because it had a breather hose zip tied to it. Sending/pump unit screw on ring- it's tight, I used very large channel locks. My first inspection I was able to remove the sending/pump unit without disconnecting the feed and breather hoses. However it is much easier to install the retaining ring without the hoses in the way.(why? - because you have to hold down pressure on the sending/pump unit and the hoses are a bit in the way, also, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CROSS THREAD THE RETAINING RING-IT IS A LITTLE TRICKY, CAUSE IT'S NOT EASY TO GET THAT FIRST THREAD GOING. HOW TO GET THE PUMP OUT- (ONCE THE UNIT IS OUT OF THE TANK Leave the fuel strainer attached to the pump- there are snaps circular around the plastic case, I started on one side and used two little screwdrivers and worked around it by undoing in a circular pattern, holding (kind of tilt pressure, to keep them from re-snapping), and then the it slides apart. There is a rubber pad on the bottom of the pump, if it sticks to the pump, it's easier to put back together if you pull it off the pump and put it in the plastic sleeve that goes over the pump. When the pump slides out, there is a plastic cap, that is inside the sleeve of the unit (you may see the O-ring, between the cap in the sleeve and the top part of the pump case). I was able to get the pump out of the sleeve carefully by not pulling too hard on the wires (but to get it back together, I put the cap inside the sleeve, slid the pump in half way, and then pushed the pump into the cap and used needle nose pliers to put the O-ring on the pump shaft and push it on with a small screwdriver. (There was not enough slack in the wires to put the cap on the pump and then the O-ring on the pump shaft and then, slide it into the sleeve.) IF want to change the fuel strainer, once it's out of the sleeve, I used two small screwdrivers and pried the little metal retaining ring off the shaft, which is all that holds it on, place a rag over it to keep it from flying away. There was a metal ring around the original strainer, that I removed and put on the new one. This possible helps the plastic from expanding too much when putting on the pump. Last thing- I had bought the rebuild kit, with shipping around $90 (which had an O-ring in it) REMEMBER - this rebuild kit requires connecting the wires (there are wire crimps in the kit, but since it's in the fuel cell, not sure about that method) cause the OEM wires are soldered. I would think that removing the unit far from the tank on a ventilated workbench and then soldering the wires would be the way to go, but may someone can vouch that crimping wires in a fuel cell is OK? IDK/I wouldn't do it. I haven't searched for just the O-ring, but likely dirt cheap If your pump is bad (not running when you turn the key, and you've checked for power at the pump), a complete unit ready to drop in is more expensive, between $179 and $350? (plug and play) Good luck! I wonder how much money Can Am service is making on piss poor O-rings, gouging for new pumps when not necessary?