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  • Member ID:  133
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Posted (edited)

To replace the rear axles jack up the rear of the machine, remove both wheels using the 17mm socket. Remove the top and bottom caliper bolts 15mm, remove and support the caliper. remove the cutter pin and remove the axle nut 30 mm, remove the top bolt of the knuckle and the two shorter bolts at the bottom (all 15mm). Now you can remove the disc brake bracket if it will come, I struggled with mine as the spline shaft would not release from the brake bracket. Once you have the nut off the spline spray the spline area with something (like befree) to help cut the rust and sealant on the spline. I had to use a puller to push the knuckle off the spline on each axle. Clean up and prepare to install the new axles. 

Coat the inner spline liberally with grease, alighn the axle as straight as possible to the differential, rotate a bit to align with the inner spline and a solid shove should snap the keeper into place. Prior to installing the axle use a small wire brush to clean the spline area on the knuckle. Put a coating of blue lock tite on the bearing area and insert the outboard spline through the knuckle, insert the upper and two lower bolts, install the disc brake with new nut and washer, torque to 184 ft/lbs. line up the hole for the new cotter key and install. Install the caliper and tighten (with a drop of lock tite) on all the 15mm bolts. Install the wheel and torque the 17mm nuts to 74 ft/lbs. It took me about 1 1/2 hrs per side you may do it much quicker.

 Well I finally installed the rear axles Rhino 2.0 AX 7-67-R-0DT001 and they installed and seemed to fit as well as the OEM did. On the bathroom digital scale they are the same weight as OEM (13 lbs) and the stock axle is 25mm diameter vs 26+mm on the rhino 2.0 so not much visual difference as far as axle OD or CV size, the only difference may be in the metallurgy and not much difference in rotating mass. I drove around a bit and everything seems normal.🤔

20241103_121910.jpg

Edited by Andystoy19
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