DIY Powered Plow Angling System

[Steelslinger]

Thanks. I was able to get it installed on the machine last week just in time for a plowable amount of snow. Its not 100% finished out, but its functional.

I didn't get the connector in the controller wires nor did I get then run under the floor yet, so I have that to do. I also have a little more refinement to the arm rest yet to do, such as cleaning up the welds, hiding the wiring, painting it, putting an upholstered padded piece on the arm, and grip/padding for the bracket that hooks over the mid wall tubes.

I mounted the second solenoid that runs the actuator on the frame under the dash and behind the passenger side lower cubby. I pulled power off the always hot post for the solenoid, and off the keyed power for the joystick switch. I ran the Up-Down wires to the winch solenoid, piggybacking on the dash switch terminals. With this setup, I feel the plow limit sensor is a must as it is easy to bump the joystick when shifting. The other two wires went to the actuator solenoid. I only had to run the two 10ga wires out the dash to the connector that connects to the actuator, I used PET mesh for the new wires that go outside, and then on advice of a friend I used some plastic spiral cable guard to protect the actuators wire from snow/ice damaging the outer insulation.

[Steelslinger]

Actuator brackets, actuator and plow all installed. I used nylon washers as spacers because the tube I used to make the brackets had a 1-5/8" ID vs 1" OD of the actuator shaft, I still need to add another as there is still a gap.

Also, in these pictures, you can see that I drilled a hole and put a clip in to keep the angle lock lifted up. I did this instead of removing it to keep it for a failsafe, if the actuator ever fails, I can remove it and pull the pin and go back to manual operation.

Edited December 23, 2021 by Steelslinger

[Steelslinger]

I have two light weight plow events done already, functions great albeit slow. Raise and lower are as normal, but this actuator doesn't move fast at all, which I knew going in. Its not terrible (30 sec from angle lock to opposite angle lock), as you can run it while backing up or positioning, but a quicker actuator would make it better. 

The arm rest mounted joystick control is awesome for running this setup, hell even without the actuator angle, I like using it for the Up/Down over the dash mounted switch.

All told, I'm in it for about $500 give or take. I used steel drops (ie remnants) for the brackets and arm rest, but that should be cheap even at todays prices.

To me, well worth it.

[Steelslinger]

So, after two decent size plow events, there was a failure. In the bracket. I had figured if there was a weak point, it would be there first. Two factors contributed to this issue: first, the design of the bracket and second, the thickness of material used. Due to the length of the actuator, I had to make an offset style bracket which put the pivot hole for the actuator 6" past the last attachment hole. This created a fair amount of leverage of force anytime I was actively moving the blade angle to the passenger side or putting pushing force on the drivers side of the blade. Compounding that was the light weight thickness of the material and scant side wall metal left in the making of the bracket. Ultimately, it was that force, having the blade angled to the right and hitting the dense snow piles, coupled with the light weight construction of the bracket, that allowed the bracket to fold in half at the rear mounting hole.
Thankfully, I had the forethought to retain the manual angling stop lever by using a retaining clip to hold it out of the way instead of removing the lever all together. It allowed me to finish my plow job that night.
I rebuilt the bracket with a few changes. Same material, as it is what I have at the moment. I'll look at possibly making another bracket with thicker material when I have time to hit the steel yard and have more time to fabricate. I increased the side wall height to add support and also welded in some 1/4" x 1/2" flat bar I had to stiffen it up more. Also, drilled a hole in the bracket under the pivot hole to add another mount bolt to the push tubes if I find its moving again. Additionally, if I know I am going to be slamming into snow piles to move them back, I'll pull the pin on the positioning lever to lock in the blade.

[Steelslinger]

Old bracket with damage from being folded a few times. I didn't get any when it was folded in half at a 90° angle, but you can see the fatigue and distortion. I used the actuator and lever to straighten it enough to finish.

[Steelslinger]

New bracket. Its going to stay in the raw until spring at this point, if it survives.

[Steelslinger]

End of the plowing season, for the most part, so I figured I'd update my thoughts. 

The joystick controller was the big winner for this, was a lot more intuitive in operation than the dash switch. Only issue, as I figured would happen, was bumping the joystick when shifting. I may add a controller power switch to deactivate it when not plowing.

Having the limit switch for plow height was great, never had to worry about over retracting and damaging the cable. Worth the money.

Even the rebuilt reinforced bracket took a slight bend it in. There is a little bit of space now at the back end of the bracket between the push tube. Haven't fully decided what I plan to do. I have a few ideas on how to redesign the bracket to be beefier. Other option is to look for other actuators/rams, one that fits better (i.e. 3" shorter) so I don't have to run an offset bracket.

The angling speed, well, that's more of a what can you live with thing. While its not absolutely horribly slow, its not quick either. If I was using this in a commercial setting or had to change angles a lot more than I do, it'd be a problem. Although in the case of commercial use, I'd be able to justify the cost of a V-Plow. I may solve this issue and the bracket issue by replacing the electric actuator that I have with an electric-hydraulic ram.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. Definitely worth the time and money I put in to it. Figure about $550 and a solid shop day or two building and installing it. A little bit of tweaking and it'll be solid.